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Steering Issues After Engine Installation


Best Answer cal844 , 19 February 2018 - 01:26 PM

Speed wobble is the worn steering rack, replace it Go to the full post


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#1 zero_wlv

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Posted 18 February 2018 - 09:45 PM

After installing a new engine a couple of months ago,  two issues have cropped up with the steering:    (everything with the engine is going great now fortunately :D )

 

    1.   the steering wheel is pointing to 1 o'clock when the road wheels are straight ahead,   i.e. the steering wheel is 30° out

    2.   the steering  (and seemingly the whole front end)  vibrates badly at anything over 45mph.      I also think there's a bit more play than there used to be at all speeds.

 

Both issues appeared as soon as the engine was installed.

 

As for the misaligned steering wheel,  is it normal for this to happen after installing a different engine (with new mounts and steady bushes)?    Is it anything to worry about that it's moved this far out?    This was a sudden thing that happened immediately after the engine installation,  rather than a gradual thing.

I know I simply need to take off the steering column then re-install it with the splines in the correct position  -  which I'll be doing once my new shear bolt (and bushes) arrive.

I do have one question  -  a vital step is missing out of my Haynes edition and I'm aware that fitment of the steering column is safety critical.   Haynes goes through every step but at no point tells me when to re-tighten the U-bolt nuts!!    Can someone confirm that I should do this at the very end,  after I've engaged the spline,  torqued the pinch bolt and tightened the shear bolt?  I'm aware how critical this procedure is so I'd like to be sure before doing it.

 

Secondly,  the vibration at high speed  -  I've found many threads about this and it looks as though tracking down the cause can cost quite a bit of time and money if you're don't identify the right cause first time.      The tie bars are straight,  they both have an equal number of threads exposed,  the rack is fastened securely to the bulkhead and the tie bar bushes seem to be ok.  I'm thinking about taking the car for tracking,   but before I go and spend £40,   can anyone advise whether there is another more likely cause of vibration at speed following an engine install with new subframe mounts?    Is it normal for the tracking to be thrown out when a new engine is installed or should I be looking for another cause?

 

Is there any advantage in having all four wheels tracked or will the front two be sufficient?

Will a national chain like ATS be ok for setting tracking on a Mini or should I be taking it to a specialist?

 

Thanks everyone in advance for putting up with my amateurish questions  :D

 

P.S. my last MOT had an advisory saying "Nearside Play in steering rack inner joint(s)" if that helps,  although I can't feel it myself

 



#2 Retroman

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Posted 18 February 2018 - 10:29 PM

An engine swap does not affect the steering.

Tighten the pinch bolt first, and U bolt nuts before the shear bolt.

I have no explanation for the steerwheel being off straight.

 

You should have renewed or reconditioned the steering rack whilst the engine was out....the MOT advisory was pointing to it being worn, which will probably be the speed wobble you are now finding.

 

Four wheel alignment should be better, but if you are not scrubbing rear tyres or have moved anything at the back, just do the front.

 

Use a Mini specialist if you can, half the guys at the 'other' places have not got the interest or knowledge to do a Mini, and some of them have not got the kit, being too carried away on metric euroboxes....



#3 nicklouse

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 08:41 AM

you forgot to tighten something you loosened when changing the engine.

 

as above an engine swap in its self changes nothing.

 

but to do the swap you will have popped a ball joint or track road end to allow the drive shafts to be disconnected.

 

I would not be driving the car until a full suspension spanner check is done.



#4 panky

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 10:55 AM

Did you by any chance swap the front wheels over? Try swapping them back over, it's surprising what tyre wear can do but check everything else as well.



#5 MacGyver

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 11:15 AM

Do you have spacers?

#6 zero_wlv

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 11:36 AM

Do you have spacers?

 

Nope,  no spacers.



#7 GraemeC

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 12:01 PM

No point in 4 wheel alignment if your car is standard - the rear isn't adjustable. 

(OK it is, but by messing with shims, filing holes etc - nothing a garage will do as part of alignment setting).

If you're on 10" rims ATS may not be able to do the tracking anyway, modern laser kit doesn't suit the small wheels.

 

As everyone has said, engine change in itself should not affect steering in the slightest.  Personally I wouldn't go to the bother of disconnecting the column, just remove the steering wheel and adjust it round on the splines.

However, what you must check is that you have the same number of turns from lock to lock either side of straight ahead.  If the rack has been moved or the track rod ends adjusted then it is very easy to not have the straight ahead position in the centre of the rack.

 

Vibration could be tracking, castor, loose/knackered rack, loose/knackered track rod ends, loose steering arm, loose/knackered ball joints........... As Nick says - double check everything is tight and has no play.



#8 zero_wlv

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 12:15 PM

 

  just remove the steering wheel and adjust it round on the splines.

 

 

Hi Graeme,   I tried this as I'd seen it recommended in many other threads.     My steering wheel  (standard 1988 3-spoke) is keyed so it's not possible to choose which splines to install it on.    It will only install in one position.



#9 GraemeC

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 12:21 PM

It should only be keyed to the indicator cancelling ring, which should happily rotate to where you need it to be.

 

Depending on the rack, you may not be able to rotate the column on it - some (the better ones) only has a relief for the pinch bolt to go through at one orientation, rather than a continuous groove around the whole diameter.


Edited by GraemeC, 19 February 2018 - 12:23 PM.


#10 zero_wlv

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 12:25 PM

It should only be keyed to the indicator cancelling ring, which should happily rotate to where you need it to be.

 

Thanks,  I hadn't realised that.   I'll take another look when I get home to see if it can save me the hassle of taking the column off  (although I think I'll be doing that anyway to replace the bushes).



#11 Retroman

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 01:07 PM

Chances are you will still have the speed wobble as the rack is clearly worn... your MOT man found it.



#12 Ethel

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 01:18 PM

Refitting the steering wheel sounds like just tackling the symptom, not the cause. You need to investigate, suspension joints and mountings, brakes, tyres and not just the front.



#13 cal844

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 01:26 PM   Best Answer

Speed wobble is the worn steering rack, replace it

#14 zero_wlv

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Posted 21 February 2018 - 09:46 PM

Thanks everyone,  it seems like the steering rack is the most likely cause,  I've ordered another one and will be fitting it very soon.

 

One last question (hopefully!),  will I have to get the tracking done after fitting the new rack?    I would think so,  I'm assuming  I wouldn't be able to get away with just adjusting the track rods so they're both showing 14 threads as they are at the moment.

 

It's also occurred to me that about 6 months ago I discovered one of the CV joint gaiters had come completely loose.   I squirted a whole sachet of fresh CV grease into it and secured it with a new jubilee band,   but is it possible that the joint had worn rapidly whilst the gaiter was loose and this is now causing the speed wobble I have?



#15 nicklouse

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Posted 22 February 2018 - 12:04 AM

Thanks everyone,  it seems like the steering rack is the most likely cause,  I've ordered another one and will be fitting it very soon.

 

One last question (hopefully!),  will I have to get the tracking done after fitting the new rack?    I would think so,  I'm assuming  I wouldn't be able to get away with just adjusting the track rods so they're both showing 14 threads as they are at the moment.

 

It's also occurred to me that about 6 months ago I discovered one of the CV joint gaiters had come completely loose.   I squirted a whole sachet of fresh CV grease into it and secured it with a new jubilee band,   but is it possible that the joint had worn rapidly whilst the gaiter was loose and this is now causing the speed wobble I have?

why have you ordered a new one?

 

is it actually the issue?

 

yes it is likely you will need to do the tracking. number of threads mean nothing.

 

you also need to drop the rear of the subframe just to get the rack out and in.

 

worn CVs dont cause wobble they make click noises when turning.






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