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Verto Clutch (Slave Cylinder?) Problem


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#1 MatthewsDad

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Posted 18 February 2018 - 10:25 PM

95 spi complete strip and reassembly of verto clutch assembly. New plunger, release bearing and slave and master cylinders, among other items. Throwout set at just over 6mm. Have bled system, but clutch pedal now doesn't depress more than an inch or so (engine not switched on) and no movement on pivot arm or plunger, and pedal solid. I can push the push rod back into the slave cylinder and the fluid level rises in the master, but should I be able to do this? Could the new slave have siezed? (Been on a shelf for 12 months) Feels like I have missed something obvious but it all seems assembled ok.

Many thanks

#2 Retroman

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Posted 18 February 2018 - 10:58 PM

The slave is not seized, as you can push the piston back and return the fluid.

 

It sounds like its running out of travel.

 

When you set the throwout nut did you have the plunger pushed in ?

 

You need to borrow someones leg and a mirror, (or a boroscope) get them to press the clutch and look in the end of the slave.

 

Did you renew the arm?



#3 minidaves

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 02:44 AM

how have you set the throw out?



#4 retired

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 06:50 AM

Two other possibilities,

Forgot to fit top hat (unlikely but I have known it to happen) or, much more likely, release bearing on backwards (easily done).



#5 MatthewsDad

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 08:33 AM

Thanks for the replies, I suspect it's throwout adjustment. I have followed Haynes but might be misinterpreting the instructions. Assuming everything is in place and the nuts have been backed off the plunger, what's the best way to do this properly? Sorry for a seemingly simple question, still getting over the trauma of replacing the clutch pedal clevis pin.

#6 GraemeC

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 08:41 AM

For now I would just back them right off, or even remove them, and see if you get full pedal travel.



#7 Steve220

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 10:20 AM

As above, I'd be testing to see if the slave actually moves fully, then work on the mechanical links. The throw out should be 6.5mm when everything is connected.



#8 MatthewsDad

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 09:47 PM

Firstly thank you all for the helpful feedback.

Ok, so the problem was throwout adjustment. With the nuts backed off I have full clutch pedal action. My oversight after a long day working on two cars. However, in setting the throwout clearance, I don't fully understand step 6.2.4 in Haynes "pull release lever out...until you can feel the release bearing make contact with the the sleeve". I can't pull the lever arm out any further as the bearing is already in contact with the the top hat. My understanding is that the release bearing is in contact with the thrust sleeve? I can adjust throwout to required clearance. It's the pulling the release lever bit that's stumping me.

Edited by MatthewsDad, 19 February 2018 - 10:06 PM.


#9 GraemeC

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 09:54 PM

I’ve not done much with verto units, but are you sure that instruction isn’t for the pre-verto?

#10 MatthewsDad

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 10:03 PM

Ive not done much with verto units, but are you sure that instruction isnt for the pre-verto?


Thanks for checking but it is under the verto section (pre Oct 96)

#11 Retroman

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 10:49 PM

Firstly thank you all for the helpful feedback.

Ok, so the problem was throwout adjustment. With the nuts backed off I have full clutch pedal action. My oversight after a long day working on two cars. However, in setting the throwout clearance, I don't fully understand step 6.2.4 in Haynes "pull release lever out...until you can feel the release bearing make contact with the the sleeve". I can't pull the lever arm out any further as the bearing is already in contact with the the top hat. My understanding is that the release bearing is in contact with the thrust sleeve? I can adjust throwout to required clearance. It's the pulling the release lever bit that's stumping me.

I asked had you adjusted it with the plunger pushed in...

Meaning the lever arm needs to be pulled out, (away from the cover) to push the plunger in, until the bearing contacts the top hat sleeve (which sits inside the clutch cover, on the end of the flywheel)

THEN adjust the throwout with the lever pulled out.

If its not lever out and plunger touching sleeve when adjusted, the travel is reduced.

This is why the clutch goes solid and the travel is shorter... the throwout nut butts up to the clutch cover too early resulting in a clutch that does not clear.



#12 MatthewsDad

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Posted 20 February 2018 - 10:43 PM

Thanks for the responses everyone now sorted.




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