19 replies to this topic

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

I'm after a threadlock that will also seal a tread, in order to plug a hole in a thermostat sandwich plate. I want to use a grub screw, so won't be able to tighten as there's no head. I was pondering using something like sikaflex or tigerseal but that's a bit messy. Any other options?

Edited by HUBBA.HUBBA, 22 February 2018 - 07:19 PM.

[hhhh]

Loctite 242 should do the job. 

[Stu1961]

Loctite 577 is very effective and 100% water proof, we use it on all our water cooled compressors at work. 

[RooBoonix]

I have done exactly the same as you, I used Loctite 680 high strength retaining compound with an M12 stainless grub screw, shouldn't be coming out anytime soon...

[hhhh]

I sometimes wonder just how much difference there is between all the Loctite products. It seems there's a particular one for each application, but they're mostly methacrylate in composition, so how much different are they? I use 290, 242, 262 and a bearing retainer one to cover just about anything.

[Retroman]

I'm after a threadlock that will also seal a tread, in order to plug a hole in a thermostat sandwich plate. I want to use a grub screw, so won't be able to tighten as there's no head. I was pondering using something like sikaflex or tigerseal but that's a bit messy. Any other options?

As above Loctite of any type will do it...

Your grub screw should have an allen key or torx socket or some screwdriver slot or something...?

as if you won't be able to tighten it, how you gunna thread it in?

[GraemeC]

I think he means tighten it as in there’s nothing for it to push against and achieve a tightening torque, he can only screw it in up to the point where it is flush (or similar)

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

I think he means tighten it as in there’s nothing for it to push against and achieve a tightening torque, he can only screw it in up to the point where it is flush (or similar)

Exactly

[Dusky]

Could use a pipe thread too if you haven't drilled/tapped it already. On my corvette they used lots of ptfe tape and a standard unf thread, and it must've been on there, and leak free, for the past 20 years :)

[Spider]

I sometimes wonder just how much difference there is between all the Loctite products. It seems there's a particular one for each application, but they're mostly methacrylate in composition, so how much different are they? I use 290, 242, 262 and a bearing retainer one to cover just about anything.

 

They do have a chart, but there's only 3 I keep and I find I can cover everything with them and never had an issue. I know one is 242, another is the high strength thread locker and the last one is a bearing mount.

 

I even use the 242 on freeze plugs for example.

 

I also clean all the threads and parts with paint thinners before applying.

[hhhh]

The Loctite "accelerator" or "prep" or whatever they call it is just blue coloured acetone at twenty times the price.

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

Just got an email back from Henkel. They have said locktite 577 is the one

Edited by HUBBA.HUBBA, 23 February 2018 - 09:56 AM.

[Stu1961]

Just got an email back from Henkel. They have said locktite 577 is the one

Its good stuff, but a word of warning try not to get any on your paintwork, its a very effective paint striper as well  

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

Just got an email back from Henkel. They have said locktite 577 is the one

Its good stuff, but a word of warning try not to get any on your paintwork, its a very effective paint striper as well

To be honest I'm still not sure. Seems expensive for just one job. Still interested in what people have used. 577 or 680 are the leaders at the moment

[AndyR]

I use 577 for loads of applications.  On JIC fittings or anywhere ptfe tape would normally be used, ie. all my air tools and compressor lines are sealed with 577, even plumbing jobs around the house get the 577 treatment.  Non of these joints have ever leaked, be it fuel, air or water.  Just make sure you push the seal down and keep the lid on, it will last ages.