261 replies to this topic

[nicklouse]

put the wheels on the ground.

[Tonylamb]

Managed to get all the adjustable suspension set up nicely handles very well through the corners. But its a mini so little things crop up all the time. I had a mini spares short shift kit knocking about so I fitted that. to be honest not 100% sure I like it as much as the standard shift. I also put the spring that loads across to 3rd and 4th. Its now quite hard work to get it in reverse sometimes. And annoyingly my reversing light has conked out? I thought I may have put the two wires at the bottom of the gear change round the wrong way. switched them today and Nada. Perhaps its the switch in the bottom of the changer? maybe with the short shifter it doesn't reach and needs adjustment. any thoughts?

Oh and to cap it off went and put a couple of gallons of fuel in. fuel gauge showed 2/3rds full. then today doesn't work at all. Thought voltage stabiliser but temp guage is fine? also connected up wires at sender which normally makes gauge go to top, nothing? Oh well at least I have plenty of time. But I really really don't want to take the dash out because its an absolute Ba$Wtard.

[Tonylamb]

I have a pretty tragic leak from the bottom of the timing chain cover. I've already taken the cover off once to replace the damper oil seal. that seems to have worked but now its leaking from the cover seal I think. Someone told me that if you replace the cover and gasket you should also replace the back plate. That of course, I assume, means taking the timing chains and sprockets off. Is it necessary to replace the back plate? Also if you do is it worth going with one of the splendid but really expensive MED cast alluminium ones?

[imack]

Are you certain it's not the 1/2 moon seal between the engine and box leaking?
I've got the MED alloy timing cover and engine front plate, they are very nice but pure luxury and not something is needed so long as your timing cover and front plate are in good condition.

[Tonylamb]

Well I can't be 100% sure but that seal was replaced when the engine was rebuilt 2000 miles ago. I had a leak from the damper oil seal so I changed that with the engine in the car. Not the easiest. now it appears to leak from around the gasket that seals the timing chain cover. I put some UV in the oil to see the leaks. I appreciate they all leak a bit but this is 500mm every 30 miles. Needs sorting out. Its also spraying all over the under side of the car and exhuast making a smelly car.

I agree the MED cover is expensive and a luxury but it does look good. My real concern is taking the timing chains off and then makings sure I don't disturb or get the cam timing correct putting it all back together?

[exuptoy]

I’ve just done the same job as my recently purchased 93 SPi Cooper had a huge oil leak. I found the timing cover bolt holes all dimpled from over tightening, front plate tweaked as someone had used an incorrect length bolt and jacked the plate off the engine causing a lovely bend in the plate. New plate was cheap enough, timing cover dimples tapped flat (later timing cover with breather no longer available), improved timing cover gasket and new Viton seal, big pin timing chain from Keith Calver, all replaced inside the car. First time I’ve done anything like this, pretty simple really. Before stripping I dialled in the timing until the dots were aligned, paint marked the chain and gears and counted the links between paint marks then put a tie wrap around the middle of the chain whilst it was off, thereby keeping the chain on the respective teeth. Replacement was simple even though the chain was replaced using the paint marks and counting the number of links. I did however make a school boy error assuming that the dots facing each other would be correct for no1 cylinder under compression but the rotor arm was aligned with no4? Turns out that’s right, no1 is when the cam dot is at the top and aligned with a ruler!!!

Edited by exuptoy, 21 August 2020 - 07:48 AM.

[Ethel]

Pressed steel timing chain covers aren't very rigid. use a straight edge and or glass plate to check the cover and back plate for flatness, pulled threads etc. Clean both parts thoroughly. On reassembly, fit all the fasteners barely touch tight, fit the pulley to centre the seal. Then gradually do up the screws alternating from side to side, similar to a head gasket. The torque required isn't much, use a torque wrench if possible. A sealant may help, but  don't over do it.