261 replies to this topic

[KTS]

..you have removed the hub nut, split washer and driving flange/brake disc ?

[Tonylamb]

So I got the hub off and the bearing out. the bearing is shot to bits. smells burned. Its clearly either had something in it or perhaps I over packed it with grease? The white plastic dust cover that goes up against the CV joint has been torn to ribbons, picture attached. Anyway i've taken it all apart and replaced the inner races today. I'm now packing the bearings with grease. However I noticed in the pack is a spacer. I think that should probably go between the inner bearing and the inner seal. But some videos I've watched don't seem to use that spacer. I wonder if I should have and this has caused the bearing to fail. Or perhaps I just didn't do it up tight enough.

Any thoughts before I put it all back together again only to make the same mistake.

Attached Files

•  20190913_184425-756x756.jpg   76.81K   0 downloads

[imack]

Only spacer I'm aware of is the one that goes between the inner bearing races, although I was under the impression that modern bearings do away with the spacer and use stepped inner races that butt up to one another.

[KTS]

last set of hubs i pulled apart also had a narrow spacer that fitted under the inner hub seal - not something i recall seeing before to be honest.

 

from the state of the plastic dust shield i'd say the bearing has overheated and melted it.  what's the state of the shaft on the CV joint that runs through the bearing, and the faces in the hub the bearing races sit in ?  look for any evidence that the races have spun within the hubs

[Tonylamb]

There is spacer betwen the two halves of the bearings. There is also a spacer like a split ring between the inner bearing and the oil seal. With the plastic cover on top of that. Ive put the new races in place and the seals but ive noticed that the outer seal goes down over the bearings. The inner one although it seems to be all the way in does not. Do i have that right. Couple of pics attached.

Attached Files

•  20190917_210002-756x756.jpg   56.4K   1 downloads
•  20190917_210016-756x756.jpg   47.24K   1 downloads

[KTS]

no

 

outer seals should be pressed in level to the edge of the hub

 

 

..interestingly, this diagram shows the spacer between the inner bearing and oil-seal

Edited by KTS, 17 September 2019 - 09:08 PM.

[Tonylamb]

So i wonder what the spacer is for if not to stop the seal from going in too far. The inner edges of the seals shouldnt touch the outer edges of the bearings? So somehow i need to pull them out a little. Right?

[Tonylamb]

If the seal doesnt touch the bearing what stops the grease from coming out?

[DeadSquare]

If the seal doesnt touch the bearing what stops the grease from coming out?

When it is all put together properly, it just doesn't.

Edited by DeadSquare, 18 September 2019 - 11:04 AM.

[KTS]

If the seal doesnt touch the bearing what stops the grease from coming out?

 

from the image you can see that the seals run against the CV joint, and the outer face where the driving flange butts up to the bearing 

[Tonylamb]

So thanks for all the info and comments. Ill reposition the seals to the outside lip of the hub. I will use the large washer to torque it all up before using the cone. One question I have is how do you stop the wheel turning when you are torquing up to nearly 200lbs

[DeadSquare]

Use a ratcheting torque wrench.

 

Extend it with a length of tube to about the door handle and hold it 1/2 way up the door with a bit of string.

 

Get in through the other door;  put foot on brake;  put arm through window and torque up nut.

 

Somewhat more difficult on the nearside, but you will be pushing downwards.

Edited by DeadSquare, 25 September 2019 - 08:51 AM.

[Tonylamb]

i have extra pairs of hands available so that's not the issue. I'm more interested in how to stop the wheel assembly etc turning while you are torquing up the nut. can you torque up to a certain point then put the wheel on to stop it turning.? I have various torque wrenches etc and bars bla bla. no problem in applying the torque. I also have a flat washer to do it up the first time. Can you hold it on the brakes sufficiently?

[KTS]

yes - brakes will (..should !!) hold against the torque

 

i've used a block of wood and a scissor jack against the seat crossmember to push the brake pedal down to do it before

[Tonylamb]

righto that makes sense. hopefully with a helper on the foot pedal and perhaps something across the wheel nuts i can then lean on the torque wrench with a bar if needed to get the right torque.

I'm going to torque up with the flat washer to 190lbs and then leave it for 30 minutes. gently release and then go again with the cone washer up to 188/200 as advised. then on to the next hole in the CV shaft thread. job done, hopefully.