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Lots Of Simple Questions At Once


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#196 KTS

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Posted 17 October 2019 - 07:02 PM

..don't need to, no

#197 Tonylamb

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Posted 22 October 2019 - 12:27 PM

I'm just looking at this and will the damper, fan belt pully clear the engine mount? Doesn't look like there is much room. Or do I need to remove the engine mount that end of the car to get the pully off? I can't find any reference to that in the haynes manual.

#198 Tonylamb

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Posted 22 October 2019 - 01:56 PM

i was assuming its a nut but maybe its a bolt that goes in the end of the crank shaft? Presumably put it in gear and use a big ratchet to un do it.

#199 nicklouse

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Posted 22 October 2019 - 02:06 PM

it is a bolt. generally the engine mount bracket needs one of the long bolts (upper) removing to get a socket on it. a big spanner may fit.

 

you should remove the starter and lock the flywheel with a suitable tool.



#200 Tonylamb

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Posted 22 October 2019 - 04:54 PM

thanks massively helpful as always.

#201 Tonylamb

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Posted 26 October 2019 - 07:19 PM

so with the top part of the engine mount removed and the long screws removed a big screwdriver on the fly wheel tooth and the bolt came out easily. There were no tabs on the bolt by the way which was odd because I thought there should be to stop it coming undone? However the problem is that I cannot see how the fan belt damper comes off. I'm assuming I'd have to use a puller of some sort to remove it. Thats easy enough but it looks to me like I'd have to take the whole engine mount off to get anything in there and to get the clearance. you can see in the attached pic that i have removed both the long bolts from the lower part of the mount. But if I jack the engine up anymore its lifting the car rather than giving me any more clearance. Any thoughts before I take the mount off completely?

Attached Files



#202 nicklouse

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Posted 26 October 2019 - 07:47 PM

Yep you will need to remove the engine mount with that crank damper/pulley. 
 

damper “just” pulls off. Some are harder than others.



#203 Tonylamb

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Posted 28 October 2019 - 07:00 PM

thanks again for advice. it wouldn't pull off by hand but came easily with a puller. got it all apart and cleaned everything up. New Vitron oil seal put in. Looks all square and timing cover doesn't look bent or anything. I'm just thinking about putting it back on. I have a duplex timing chain. there doesn't appear to be an oil flinger which is shown in the Haynes manual with the single chain. before I put it all back together should there be? Also I've read various comments about making sure the seal is alligned correctly to the damper/pully. Does the method of putting the damper back on before doing up the bolts actually work? or is there another method, measuring in some way to makes sure its correct thats better. I've also read there is a tool for this job but that would be a bit of an overkill if they are even available? Cheers.

#204 nicklouse

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Posted 28 October 2019 - 09:45 PM

Yes there should be a flinger yes care should be taken with the alignment or you may have a leak.



#205 Tonylamb

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Posted 29 October 2019 - 08:15 AM

and presumably a bendable tab to stop the bolt coming out of the end of the crankshaft. Not that it could go anywhere. Good news is the damper itself is in good nick.

#206 nicklouse

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Posted 29 October 2019 - 08:18 AM

yes there should be but the material does not seem to be as good now so most people use a medium thread lock instead.

 

PS have a very close look at the key way as the do crack through from the key way to the seal surface side.


Edited by nicklouse, 29 October 2019 - 08:19 AM.


#207 Tonylamb

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Posted 21 November 2019 - 10:23 PM

quick question my wipers, new motor, new stalk on column only work on slow speed. they did use to work on all speeds. some form of electrical issue by the look of it. Any thoughts?

#208 Tonylamb

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Posted 23 November 2019 - 05:20 PM

so I've checked all the connections at the switch end and the motor. as I said the motor is brand new so i doubt its that. Plus it works fine on the slow setting. the wipers don't park or work on intermittant or the fast setting. is this typical of the parking switch being faulty? I'm searching on forums but if anyone has a thought please let me know.

one other item i've had some issues with the starter switch. sometimes it works sometimes nothing. Bonnet up and wiggle the solenoid and it works. the wires are all tight. Could it be a faulty solenoid. i notice its a bit loose on the wing. Does the solenoid need to be well earthed? could be that.

#209 sonscar

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Posted 23 November 2019 - 09:00 PM

I believe it needs to be earthed.Steve..

#210 GraemeC

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Posted 23 November 2019 - 09:15 PM

The solenoid usually earths via its connection to the wing. If it is loose then it probably has a poor earth.




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