Lots Of Simple Questions At Once
#241
Posted 03 March 2020 - 10:03 PM
#242
Posted 04 March 2020 - 06:18 AM
Any tightness in steering rack or ball joints?
Positive camber wont make the steering heavy. Too much castor will make it heavy, too little and you'll not get any self centring action.
#243
Posted 04 March 2020 - 08:24 AM
#244
Posted 04 March 2020 - 06:33 PM
#245
Posted 04 March 2020 - 06:46 PM
1 1/2 deg negative camber arms will only give 1 1/2 degrees less than you already have so you'll end up with 0.5 to 1.0 degree positive. Adjustable arms are probably the way to go and get it set up properly along with the castor.
If you're going to add negative camber to the front you really need to add it to the rear as well or you'll end up swapping ends!!
#246
Posted 04 March 2020 - 09:02 PM
1. if you go to negative camber I read that you have to put a 3mm plate under the stop that prevents over extension of the the suspension. this apparantly also protects the drive shafts from over extending? Does anyone have a diagram or picture of how this is fitted.
2. I am also interested in setting the toe in and camber on the rear. It seems that this is more imporatant than the front? I read you can over size the mounting braket hole and then weld a washer in place. Again anyone got a picture or a diagram of this proceedure or the welded bracket?
Cheers all.
#247
Posted 05 March 2020 - 09:50 AM
Is there enough "slide" lengthways in the driveshaft?I had a driveshaft that regularly pulled out of the CV joint at the wheel.I rebuilt the hub and a new joint which fixed it but I pondered this at the time.Steve..
#248
Posted 12 March 2020 - 02:11 PM
#249
Posted 12 March 2020 - 02:50 PM
#250
Posted 12 March 2020 - 02:51 PM
Attached Files
#251
Posted 12 March 2020 - 03:16 PM
Yep, that is wrong!
There should be a wire circlip on the output shaft that locates the pot joint. Sometimes these are missing or get displaced, although on some repro pot joints the groove inside the splines that the circlip should locate into has been badly cut
#252
Posted 13 March 2020 - 07:56 AM
I've also discovered another intersting problem at the rear. I discovered that two of the bolts that hold the rear sub frame to the rear of the sill are missing. the holes that go into the body don't appear to have any threads as I have tried several bolts. I will have to drop the rear sub frame and either helicoil the threads or perhaps weld some captive nuts in. One question does anyone know the length and thread of these bolts?
#253
Posted 13 March 2020 - 10:16 AM
so i presume i have to pull the shaft and check the circlip?
I've also discovered another intersting problem at the rear. I discovered that two of the bolts that hold the rear sub frame to the rear of the sill are missing. the holes that go into the body don't appear to have any threads as I have tried several bolts. I will have to drop the rear sub frame and either helicoil the threads or perhaps weld some captive nuts in. One question does anyone know the length and thread of these bolts?
If the pot joint is sliding easily on the output shaft then it is unlikely the circlip is on the output shaft. When you put it in did the pot joint pretty much touch the diff cover or could you still see some of the shaft? If you can see the shaft it needs to go in a bit further and the clip should engage.
New nuts will have to be welded in as the original nuts aren't that big. these are the bolts
http://www.minispare...|Back to search
#254
Posted 13 March 2020 - 11:34 AM
#255
Posted 18 April 2020 - 08:53 PM
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