Does This Seem Correct
#1
Posted 25 February 2018 - 11:13 PM
#2
Posted 25 February 2018 - 11:34 PM
no cup washers?
the nut should bottom out.
#3
Posted 25 February 2018 - 11:42 PM
#4
Posted 25 February 2018 - 11:44 PM
#5
Posted 26 February 2018 - 01:23 AM
stainless nylocks? i hope not. and do you have the tiebar to bottom arm bolt in stainless as well? (does not look like it has enough shoulder on it).
#6
Posted 26 February 2018 - 08:12 AM
Are those polly bushes both sides? I thought that was considered bad practice and that polly on the front and rubber on the rear was the best setup for tie bars.
#7
Posted 26 February 2018 - 08:38 AM
Are those polly bushes both sides? I thought that was considered bad practice and that polly on the front and rubber on the rear was the best setup for tie bars.
Thats what ive done to mine, it mentions on minispares site when you look at eth bushes
#8
Posted 26 February 2018 - 08:51 AM
Your subframe is shinier than my car's exterior paint job!
I too, have one poly and one rubber bush on each side. The problem here, is getting a rubber bush that lasts more than 3 months...
#9
Posted 26 February 2018 - 09:54 AM
#10
Posted 26 February 2018 - 10:11 AM
The theory goes that poly both sides of the subframe ear does not allow enough compliance during full suspension movement and may flex and ultimately crack the subframe ear.
A polly bush at the front keeps suspension alignment when breaking (puling the tie rod backwards into the subframe) and a rubber bush at the rear allows enough compliance for the ear.
I have the polly/rubber combination which seems to work well.
#11
Posted 26 February 2018 - 10:16 AM
#12
Posted 26 February 2018 - 03:14 PM
#13
Posted 26 February 2018 - 03:31 PM
I too, have one poly and one rubber bush on each side. The problem here, is getting a rubber bush that lasts more than 3 months...
The rubber bushes I've had from Minispares have lasted 5 years so far. Though rubber from any supplier seems to be a hit and miss affair.
#14
Posted 26 February 2018 - 09:53 PM
no cup washers?
the nut should bottom out.
Even with one poly I torque to 52Nm as per Rover spec. never any problems
#15
Posted 26 February 2018 - 09:58 PM
It is a good idea to weld a triangular support plate, made from 4 mm thick steel, onto each front ear to prevent any risk of fatigue failure of the welding on the original 'ear'.
Remember, these sub-frames are old and have already done a lot of work.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users