12 replies to this topic

[wadeenie]

Hello this is my first post so go easy, my 1995 Mayfair won't start, it hasn't been ran for a few years, and I decided it'd be a good first project, I rebuilt the engine and stripped the engine bay, now I've replaced everything it just won't start. The injector is getting fuel, however the spark is really weak, any ideas?

[the.stroker]

Moved to more relevant sub forum

[Sprocket]

as the engine has been rebuilt I would first check the distributor has been correctly set. Follow the Haynes manual word for word, step by step to install the distributor drive and distributor. The only thing I would do differently is once the distributor has been installed, place the cap onto the distributor body in the correct position and accurately mark the distributor body where the plug leads will go. Remove the cap, Line up one of the marks you just made with the centre of the rotor arm tip this will now be plug number 1. Refit the cap and screw it down. Fit the plug leads in order anti clockwise 1, 3, 4, 2 (cylinder 1 closest to the radiator and cylinder 4 closest to the brake master cylinder).

Edited by Sprocket, 11 March 2018 - 11:15 PM.

[xrocketengineer]

After doing what Sprocket said, it should look like this:

 

Edited by xrocketengineer, 13 March 2018 - 01:10 AM.

[wadeenie]

Wow cheers guys! i'm gonna get the petrol tank in asap and give it all a go, i was getting spark but very weak. i tried rotating the dizzy ever so slightly but no luck. However i will endeavor

[cian]

Did you change the clutch? And did you put the flywheel on the same way you took it off

[Sprocket]

Flywheel and clutch will only ever go back together correctly, one way. But yes, the incorrect clutch can throw the crankshaft timing out by 30 degrees or so.

[Sprocket]

Wow cheers guys! i'm gonna get the petrol tank in asap and give it all a go, i was getting spark but very weak. i tried rotating the dizzy ever so slightly but no luck. However i will endeavor

 The distributor needs to be 'set' as described above. Rotating the distributor body will only cause problems as it does not work in the same way as a distributor on a carb engine. This is why I suggest you first check the distributor for correct position.

 

On a side note, make sure you have correctly adjusted the throttle cable as described here http://www.theminifo...on/#entry241579

[wadeenie]

Ah ok, well i've been reading my Haynes manual and i'm going to completely start again, take off the dizzy and the drive gear (looks like a 3" socket extension with a spiral gear on one end) get that orientated completely correctly. then set the dizzy on top correctly.

reading the manual though, i'm not too sure which variant an SPI is, as the ignition amplifier doesn't ring a bell

 

 

Did you change the clutch? And did you put the flywheel on the same way you took it off

 

I did but as sprocket says the bolt pattern meant it could only go on one way.

 

cheers guys!

[Sprocket]

Ah ok, well i've been reading my Haynes manual and i'm going to completely start again, take off the dizzy and the drive gear (looks like a 3" socket extension with a spiral gear on one end) get that orientated completely correctly. then set the dizzy on top correctly.
reading the manual though, i'm not too sure which variant an SPI is, as the ignition amplifier doesn't ring a bell
 
 

Did you change the clutch? And did you put the flywheel on the same way you took it off

 
I did but as sprocket says the bolt pattern meant it could only go on one way.
 
cheers guys!

There is no ignition amplifier on the SPi distributor, that is built into the ECU. The SPi distributor is unlike a distributor for a carb engine. There is nothing inside the distributor other than a fixed shaft and rotor arm.

While the clutch and flywheel will only fit one way, there are differences in clutches that can position the flywheel 30 degrees or so out of position, and why the question of whether the clutch was replaced comes up often.

Unless you know what clutch you have fitted, you will also need to determine where the flywheel position is relative to top dead centre.

Do this at the same time as setting the distributor while the engine is at top dead centre. Remove the crankshaft position sensor and starter motor. Using a black marker pen, mark the flywheel through the hole where the crankshaft sensor should be. Turn the crankshaft so that you can see the marks you just made through the starter motor aperture, here you can see the pickup teeth in the flywheel. The black marker pen marks should be on or very near to the missing tooth.

Edited by Sprocket, 19 March 2018 - 10:12 PM.

[wadeenie]

Ok then, last night a auto-electrician mate swung around to have a look...

we have spark from the king lead although it isn't particularly strong, then no spark at the end of the ht lead.

My mate is thinking that the amplifier in the Ecu may be to blame and he's inquiring to his usual place to see if they support Rover Mems, usually its 30 quid and the ecu place will fully check it over and report any problems. i'll pay that just to know its not the ECU or to find out whats wrong.

 

also the injector is firing away merrily and we're getting fuel down the 'Toilet bowl'

 

so tonight i'll do what you said Sprocket and check the Flywheel missing tooth location. just to clarify, with Piston 1 at TDC the crankshaft sensor should be on the missing tooth? and a slighy rotation i should see it in the starter motor hole?

[wadeenie]

It's working! The ecu had a problem, the spark controller in the ecu had a driver malfunction, probably caused by the old coil providing too much resistance, anyway 115 quid later and it's up and running

[wadeenie]

It's working! The ecu had a problem, the spark controller in the ecu had a driver malfunction, probably caused by the old coil providing too much resistance, anyway 115 quid later and it's up and running