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Mpi 2000 Will Not Spark...? Please Read


Best Answer STREETHAWK84 , 18 February 2019 - 03:12 PM

Just to let any one know I sorted this issue and many others that could or might present problems in the future all basic diy
Cleaned all earth points
Replaced fuel pump relay made sure I was getting spark and fuel brought some off those plastic spark plug things that attach between plug and leads v handy replace the injectors with new 100£ eBay the others were spraying blobs of fuel instead of a fine mist you can check this with an acr reader actuator test or discontent rail from inlet and turn over bit messy tho so knew then was getting fuel and spark started to turnover and run but wouldn’t idle replaced cam and crank sensors no good read all possible forums and had a mate round who after adjust throttle cable NOT THROTTLE BODY SETTINGS OR SCREW very important not to touch factory setting. got it to rev at 1200 rpm still not idling under on its own, so without replacing all the inlet sensors ect we disconnected all one by one and when map sensor disconnected it ran different so was main culprit.
Brought a acr2 reader off eBay (about 24 months too late I may add ) plugged in cleared all faults was 24 logged plugged in and with key on map sensor was reading 23kpa removed from inlet and plugged in 20kpa so brought a new one from mini spares 76£ fitted 98.4 kph with key on and 40.2 running she now runs like new. Mot now booked
My advice would be to all before taking to a mechanic . check all diy things read through the forums post up ect but not all issues always relate and get a reader on it straight away Go to the full post


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#1 STREETHAWK84

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Posted 15 March 2018 - 10:08 PM

So long story short had normal running mpi needed restoring took engine out and had it rebuilt at bromsgrove engine services westmids had all body and engine bay resprayed put it all back together now it will not turn over, I have changed mems relay box ;fuel cut off switch ,(Im definitely getting fuel and pump works ) new genuine coil pack , new leads and plugs replaced and new crankshaft sensor , I have had auto electrian look at it for over 2 hours went over all connections wires and came to conclusion the ecu wasnt sending power back from the coil so I sent ecu away to ATP Cannock to be tested they sent it back there was NO faults with ecu . alarm and immobiliser working as it should the engine will try to turn over for as long as I turn key but there is literally no spark getting from coil to plugs? I have cleaned all earths , I am dubious about the engine steady one as the bracket had been powder coated and bulk sprayed but have rubbed them down , read through all relevant threads and just really at lost cause now as what to do / try ?

#2 Sprocket

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Posted 15 March 2018 - 10:49 PM

Few things to help try narrow it down.

 

Has the clutch been replaced?

 

Is the camshaft sensor connected? (down the back of the engine)

 

Is the ECU ground connected to a good ground point?

 

Have you checked the inertia cut off switch and reset it?

 

When you turn the ignition on, does the fuel pump run for a second or two?

 

While the engine is cranking, does the fuel pump run?



#3 STREETHAWK84

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 06:39 AM

Hi sprocket fuel cut off switch fuel pump and fuel getting through are all fine camshaft sensor connected , will need to double check if the clutch was replaced during rebuild it’s been well over 18m-2years since from memory I don’t think it was because if was very good at time? I’m going to start again with all the grounds, earth points take them all off rub down area bit copper grease and reconnect .

#4 STREETHAWK84

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 04:57 PM

Got back today cleaned all earth points even put another one from the top of block to nr side wing charged battery no joy although at one or two points I did think it was going to fire ? .

#5 STREETHAWK84

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 06:55 PM

What would be the issue with clutch affecting starting?

#6 STREETHAWK84

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 09:57 PM

Looking through other posts I’m starting to think it’s going to be flywheel position/timing possibly not correct flywheel/ clutch hence why It’s not firing ? Can I check the clutch/ flywheel assembly with engine In ?

#7 minidaves

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 10:13 PM

a long time ago someone i know managed to plug the crank sensor into the oil preasure sensor and visa versa

 

just check all the colours tie up. 

 

what does the ecu data say



#8 STREETHAWK84

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 10:57 PM

All connections are correct the crank ones are blue and oil brown checked wiring diagram I Haven’t got a reader to hand so haven’t checked if there’s faults but as said previously it all ran fine before engine rebuild and respray

#9 Sprocket

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Posted 17 March 2018 - 12:24 AM

I asked if the fuel pump runs when you crank the engine over, you never really responded in such a way that instills confidence in any diagnosis. I specifically asked two similar questions in a particular order in order to narrow down where the problem may be, rather than half guessing that it's a spark problem.

Have someone listen at the fuel tank, while you.........

  1. turn the ignition key to position II (IGN). Does the fuel pump run for a second or two?
  2. Turn the ignition key to position III (CRANK) and turn the engine over. (fuel pump will run on for a second or so after you stop cranking). Does the fuel pump run?

If the answer to 1 is no, its a fuel pump problem.

If the answer to 2 is no, it's a crankshaft sensor problem.

If the answer to both 1 and 2 are yes, It could be a camshaft sensor problem, specifically if the injectors and coil do not fire.

 

Also, check ignition coil plug wires are correctly fitted in the right order. Remove plug 1 and 3 from the engine, refit the plugs onto the plug leads, place the metal body of each plug against a cylinder head nut/ stud. Make sure they are secure and won't move about. Crank the engine and check the plugs for a spark. Keep your fingers well clear, (you'll only get an electric shock once and you won't ever do it again). The other safer option is to buy some neon indicators that show the plugs are sparking. If you get spark, the crank and cam sensors are OK and you should have fuel.

 

Are plugs so wet with fuel (considering you have been cranking it for so long) that they no longer spark?



#10 STREETHAWK84

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Posted 17 March 2018 - 11:21 AM

Hi sprocket the fuel pump and fuel are definitely getting through it pressurises on turn of key and after I have replaced the crankshaft sensor with new ? Going to double check camshaft sensor now it’s definitely connected but being is slightly awkward position I’ll look at the wires ran out of daylight last night report back today.

#11 STREETHAWK84

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Posted 18 February 2019 - 03:12 PM   Best Answer

Just to let any one know I sorted this issue and many others that could or might present problems in the future all basic diy
Cleaned all earth points
Replaced fuel pump relay made sure I was getting spark and fuel brought some off those plastic spark plug things that attach between plug and leads v handy replace the injectors with new 100£ eBay the others were spraying blobs of fuel instead of a fine mist you can check this with an acr reader actuator test or discontent rail from inlet and turn over bit messy tho so knew then was getting fuel and spark started to turnover and run but wouldn’t idle replaced cam and crank sensors no good read all possible forums and had a mate round who after adjust throttle cable NOT THROTTLE BODY SETTINGS OR SCREW very important not to touch factory setting. got it to rev at 1200 rpm still not idling under on its own, so without replacing all the inlet sensors ect we disconnected all one by one and when map sensor disconnected it ran different so was main culprit.
Brought a acr2 reader off eBay (about 24 months too late I may add ) plugged in cleared all faults was 24 logged plugged in and with key on map sensor was reading 23kpa removed from inlet and plugged in 20kpa so brought a new one from mini spares 76£ fitted 98.4 kph with key on and 40.2 running she now runs like new. Mot now booked
My advice would be to all before taking to a mechanic . check all diy things read through the forums post up ect but not all issues always relate and get a reader on it straight away




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