Rattle comes from the drop gear in the transfer case. That was reason to sell / you could buy the car.
Edited by Wim Fournier, 20 March 2018 - 04:47 PM.
Posted 20 March 2018 - 04:46 PM
Rattle comes from the drop gear in the transfer case. That was reason to sell / you could buy the car.
Edited by Wim Fournier, 20 March 2018 - 04:47 PM.
Posted 20 March 2018 - 06:17 PM
no sound recording?
Posted 20 March 2018 - 06:19 PM
Posted 20 March 2018 - 08:11 PM
Posted 20 March 2018 - 08:43 PM
Back to Ethel's suggestion about ignition. Are you running with or without vacuum advance, and what is the timing set at?
I've never run twin HS4s, but AAK needle looks much too weak for comfort.
The AAA recommended by Minispares is very similar to the old '7' profile, which was the factory 'starting point' needle when using twin HS4 carbs.
Posted 20 March 2018 - 09:06 PM
Posted 20 March 2018 - 09:14 PM
12 degrees static advance at the crank would be about right. 10 degrees would be better as the Aldon yellow should have 12 deg mechanical advance so 10 + (12 x 2) = 34 degrees maximum total mechanical advance at the crank.
12 degrees with a timing gun sounds like you might be running with retarded ignition timing - is that with/without advance can connected?
Posted 20 March 2018 - 09:27 PM
Posted 20 March 2018 - 11:00 PM
a tale of an annoying rattle i had.
Like you it was only as you came of the power. it sounded like it was coming from the gear box. could not work it out so decision made to pull engine and split it. as i was undoing the rear gear linkage mount found some lose nuts. re tightened every thing and started it up- noise gone.
Posted 21 March 2018 - 06:58 PM
The old alloy remote gearlever set-up can also give really annoying rattle when coming off power...
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