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Running Lean Causing Overheating?


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#16 Mike92

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Posted 07 April 2018 - 04:54 PM

Haha yes good point, they're in relation to the cylinder number (so #1 being radiator side, #4 being clutch housing side).

 

Cheers for that Ado, good to know! I'll have to do that check for when the thermostat opens.


Edited by Mike92, 07 April 2018 - 04:57 PM.


#17 Mike92

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Posted 16 April 2018 - 05:46 PM

Update: I fitted the a new water pump - still the same issue. However, I opened the rocker cover to fill it up with some oil, where I was greeted with a load of white goo on the underside, time to change the head gasket! I'll get the head checked over by an engine specialist this time round.



#18 nicklouse

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Posted 16 April 2018 - 07:26 PM

or the white goo is just from the oil not getting hot . the result of to many short runs.

 

how does the water look? how does the oil on the dip stick look?



#19 timmy850

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Posted 17 April 2018 - 01:09 AM

Do you have a heater fitted at the moment? Does it blow hot air out when the gauge is reading hot? 

 

My 998 with a stage one kit gets to 90-95 degrees on the highway here, but only if the ambient temp is above 30 degrees. Under that it keeps pretty much to the thermostat temp (about 80)



#20 Mike92

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Posted 17 April 2018 - 03:03 PM

Well I took the head off and this is what it looked like:

DSC_01311.jpg

DSC_01291.jpg

 

Looks like water has been getting all over the place. The head is now at the engine specialist which is gonna get looked over and potentially skimmed.

 

Before I took the head off, the engine use to get pretty hot on the motorway, nearing the red which I'd say is about 90-95 degrees so generally always had the heater on and the windows open! I've noticed when on the motorway it'll get much hotter (even with the heater on) when under load, such as going up a hill. However when on the motorway, with the heater on and going down hill it'll sit happily just above the middle.

 

Would this water leaking around the head gasket cause this getting hot issue?



#21 Mike92

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Posted 18 April 2018 - 10:30 AM

Another update: The engine specialist said that the cylinder head has a crack on cylinder #2, which makes sense what with the lower compression on that cylinder. Time for a new one :ohno:



#22 nicklouse

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Posted 18 April 2018 - 10:38 AM

from the photos I see nothing of concern. water all over the place when taking the head off is normal.

 

would be interested in knowing where this crack was.i am guessing between the valves.



#23 Mike92

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Posted 18 April 2018 - 11:45 AM

I think it must of been leaking water though because the entire inside of the rocker cover was covered in the white goo, and the Mini was never really used on short runs, probably had it running at a minimum of 20 minutes (due to living out in the sticks) before each run so should of got up to temperature.

 

What we found out last night however was after testing our torque wrench it was not applying the correct torque. It was a clicking a good 20% lower than it should be. So if the head was not correctly torqued down, I presume that would explain the potential water going places it shouldn't be and possibly the reason for the cracked head.

 

This could be a potential lesson in testing your torque wrenches before use! >_<



#24 Rorf

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Posted 18 April 2018 - 01:19 PM

Another update: The engine specialist said that the cylinder head has a crack on cylinder #2, which makes sense what with the lower compression on that cylinder. Time for a new one :ohno:

 

Strange when No 4 plug was showing signs of coolant entry.



#25 tb205gti

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Posted 28 April 2018 - 06:28 PM

Hmm - I'll try to make a compression test tomorrow on mine. running a skimmed 940 head and pockets in the block. It does not use any water though. :/ I never boils - it's just the gauge nearing 130 deg.. (Innocenti gauge) 

 

Does anybody know what resistance the coolant sensor should show with a hot engine? I suspect a dodgy sensor..



#26 InnoCooperExport

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Posted 29 April 2018 - 10:00 AM

If you're using the Innocenti temperature guage (Jaeger or Veglia) remember the Innos also had different sender units in the block. If you mix and match (using the Smiths sender on the Inno gauge and vice versa) it will give the wrong reading! I can't tell you off the top of my head what the difference in resistance is between the two sensors but I should have both kicking about my workshop somewhere...



#27 tb205gti

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Posted 29 April 2018 - 11:29 AM

If you're using the Innocenti temperature guage (Jaeger or Veglia) remember the Innos also had different sender units in the block. If you mix and match (using the Smiths sender on the Inno gauge and vice versa) it will give the wrong reading! I can't tell you off the top of my head what the difference in resistance is between the two sensors but I should have both kicking about my workshop somewhere...

 

Good point! ..But where can I buy a new sensor for the innocenti?



#28 InnoCooperExport

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Posted 29 April 2018 - 07:03 PM

 

If you're using the Innocenti temperature guage (Jaeger or Veglia) remember the Innos also had different sender units in the block. If you mix and match (using the Smiths sender on the Inno gauge and vice versa) it will give the wrong reading! I can't tell you off the top of my head what the difference in resistance is between the two sensors but I should have both kicking about my workshop somewhere...

 

Good point! ..But where can I buy a new sensor for the innocenti?

 

Ahh the million dollar question! They pop up on eBay every now and then but be aware that most of the ones you see advertised are for the later Daihatsu engined three cylinder Innocentis which won´t fit an A-series block. I think I have seen people correct it by putting resistors in between the sensor and the gauge, but I can't exactly remember where I saw it or what the values were. Sorry about that. Maybe Foster Charlton of the MCR would know? 

 

I can maybe have a dig in my workshop and measure the resistances of my various temperature sensors. I know I've checked one with a thermometer and boiling water at home and it matched up pretty well so in theory that should give you the value you need. Where exactly I've left that one I'm not 100% sure, if I have any sense I would have left it with the gauge... I won't be back in my workshop until Wednesday at the earliest, so if you don't mind waiting I can have a look. 



#29 tb205gti

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Posted 01 May 2018 - 08:10 PM

I don't mind waiting :)

#30 tb205gti

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Posted 03 May 2018 - 03:23 PM

On the way home today the gauge was close to 130deg C, so I popped the hood. The upper coolant hose is not super warm, I can easily hold my hand on it - and there are no signs of boiling when I remove the lid on the radiator. Not even a lot of steam. If I rev the engine i can see the water being pushed into the radiator, so I suppose the flow is good form the pump.

 

..Must be a sensor that does not align with the gauge.

 

..Next step put a thermometer into the radiator when the gauge is at 90deg or above.






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