Front Subframe Rebuild
#1
Posted 07 April 2018 - 08:01 AM
I'm not good with a Haynes manual like to keep it simple as a list!
Any help much appreciated as I'm new to all this!
#2
Posted 07 April 2018 - 08:27 AM
https://www.minispar...on~.aspx?1~8~66
1, 12, 28, 37, 34, 30, 42, 20, 18
https://www.minispar...ion.aspx?1~8~65
21, 19, 5, 16
Front wheel bearings
Probably more, depends what you're starting with
Edited by alex-95, 07 April 2018 - 08:28 AM.
#3
Posted 07 April 2018 - 08:50 AM
#4
Posted 07 April 2018 - 09:12 AM
im doing this too, i saw your facebook post too, glad you posted it here, doing mine on a budget and buying second hand where i can to refurb, please add photos as you go
#5
Posted 20 April 2018 - 08:25 AM
#6
Posted 20 April 2018 - 08:44 AM
im doing this too, i saw your facebook post too, glad you posted it here, doing mine on a budget and buying second hand where i can to refurb, please add photos as you go
Good work that you are taking this job on, however, I'm having trouble getting my head around it. You have worn out parts on your front subframe that you're going to remove and replace with different worn out parts that you've bought?
Am I missing something?
The reason they are usually rebuilt is to replace all the wear parts.
#7
Posted 20 April 2018 - 08:51 AM
im doing this too, i saw your facebook post too, glad you posted it here, doing mine on a budget and buying second hand where i can to refurb, please add photos as you go
Good work that you are taking this job on, however, I'm having trouble getting my head around it. You have worn out parts on your front subframe that you're going to remove and replace with different worn out parts that you've bought?
Am I missing something?
The reason they are usually rebuilt is to replace all the wear parts.
Converting from wet to dry
Edited by miniireland, 20 April 2018 - 08:52 AM.
#8
Posted 22 April 2018 - 07:35 PM
You don't need to buy any 2nd hand parts, just use what you have
The wet top arms are more desirable as opposed to dry for the point that the knuckle position is liked more on the arm. Remove the bump rubber on the arm and buy new shock top arm bolts with the spacers, this takes care of your top arms with a pin and bushes rebuild kit
Check the lower fulcrum pins as they take a bit of hammering over the years and the threads can get a bit corroded due to their position, so invest in 2 new ones. Buy 2 new front cones as well
Apart from some new bushes all round you are done, Front wet frames did not have any pear drop or floor to subframe mounts
Buy a new pair of front Tie Bars if yours are all bent, but invest in a pair of adjustable as they are more hard wearing
The rears, radius arm rebuild kits for 2, and some new bushes and re-use the mounts with new bushes. You may need 2 new support pins, and 2 new cones and again your done.
Setting apart wheel bearings, shoes, brake cylinders, calipers, cylinders and nut and bolts, there is not much expense new. Don't buy cheap brake parts either, they save your life, don't let them kill you
Buy cheap, pay twice !!!
Cheap is not the best option, we have all been hard up, but do things right first time round, if you don't have the money, wait until you do. Sorry if this sounds hard, but I am hoping to save you money all round in doing the job right in the first place and not squandering your money on parts you do not need at all.
#9
Posted 23 April 2018 - 07:28 AM
You don't need to buy any 2nd hand parts, just use what you have
The wet top arms are more desirable as opposed to dry for the point that the knuckle position is liked more on the arm. Remove the bump rubber on the arm and buy new shock top arm bolts with the spacers, this takes care of your top arms with a pin and bushes rebuild kit
Check the lower fulcrum pins as they take a bit of hammering over the years and the threads can get a bit corroded due to their position, so invest in 2 new ones. Buy 2 new front cones as well
Apart from some new bushes all round you are done, Front wet frames did not have any pear drop or floor to subframe mounts
Buy a new pair of front Tie Bars if yours are all bent, but invest in a pair of adjustable as they are more hard wearing
The rears, radius arm rebuild kits for 2, and some new bushes and re-use the mounts with new bushes. You may need 2 new support pins, and 2 new cones and again your done.
Setting apart wheel bearings, shoes, brake cylinders, calipers, cylinders and nut and bolts, there is not much expense new. Don't buy cheap brake parts either, they save your life, don't let them kill you
Buy cheap, pay twice !!!
Cheap is not the best option, we have all been hard up, but do things right first time round, if you don't have the money, wait until you do. Sorry if this sounds hard, but I am hoping to save you money all round in doing the job right in the first place and not squandering your money on parts you do not need at all.
Thanks for the above, and the plan is to build up dry subframe with engine brakes and suspension and drop complete hydro unit out with old engine, new bearings, bushes, nuts and bolts will be used, and the rear, radius arms will be removed and replaced with newly built ones with new components too, good quality bearings, cylinders, shoes, braided hoses, and proper fluid, its a project, so im collecting and building as i go, budget build as in when the budget allows, as opposed to a cheque book build....
#10
Posted 23 April 2018 - 11:41 AM
You can, as above use the wet top arms which are a better leverage
But the bolt hole for the bumpstop is 5/16 and needs drilling to 3/8 fit front shocker pins
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