Jump to content

- - - - -

Mini Spares Rear Beam

  • Please log in to reply
18 replies to this topic

#16 RichieRich


    Learner Driver

  • Noobies
  • PipPip
  • 19 posts
  • Location: cornwall

Posted 18 April 2018 - 08:58 PM

I have nearly all of that apart from the drilling of subframe, GRP seats or doors, is it not safe to drill the rear subframe? Also what about the cf boot floors? Carbon is supposed to be really strong?

#17 nicklouse


    Crazy About Mini's

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 9,151 posts
  • Location: Not Yorkshire

Posted 18 April 2018 - 09:23 PM

I’ve also thought about the wilwood pedal set which would allow the correct brake set up. I’m not trying to justify a beam, just seeing people’s views and trying to understand how some people seem to be fine but others dead against it.
I don’t want to make the wrong decision but would like to do it if I can get it rite

 i can not see the point it fitting one to a road mini of any type. the roads just dont do anything for them they can not cope it them. you mention a strut brace. so changing the tank? and you dont need a strut brace as the beam would take that load you just need more strength as all the top mount had to do was hold the shock top in place and not take any car loading. 7X13s have you tubbed the arches yet? if not expect the wheel to rub. and even then you may still not get a look you want and be able to have a half ok ride on the roads.


if i was me alloy arms subframe and new rubbers.

but i dont like alloy arms.

yes i have a "beam" but with Metro arms, there is a reason for that, with shocks that do not have stupid funny angled bits on them to make then fit.

yes it is tubbed.

yes it has a cross brace , and more

yes it has a rear ARB.

yes it has bump stops fitted as every regularity causes issues. and contact. sit in the back and it sits on the bump stops after a moment


but it is your car. but you will not get better than the subframe and rubber cone.

#18 Ethel


    ..is NOT a girl!

  • TMF Team
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 22,219 posts
  • Local Club: none

Posted 18 April 2018 - 11:33 PM

Can't think there'd be much to save drilling a rear subby. A lot of it is thinner than the front and avoiding the spot welds would leave little scope. You might manage to take a bit off the cross members, but Cooperman's comment about overall integrity still applies. 

#19 Cooperman


    Uncle Cooperman, Voted Mr TMF 2011

  • Mini Docs
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 20,310 posts
  • Location: Cambs.
  • Local Club: MCR, HAMOC, Chelmsford M.C.

Posted Yesterday, 11:34 AM

One of the problems with weight reduction is the need to keep the front/rear percentage weight distribution as near the same as possible.
One other good thing if creating a lighter weight road Mini is to fit 4.5" x 10" alloy wheels. Then not only is the weight reduced, it is the unsprung weight which is less.
Then wheel arch extensions are not needed and the aerodynamic drag is reduced. With a lighter car a 145/80 x 10 tyre can be used and wet road holding and braking will be better. Add to that a narrower tyre and the drag is reduced still further. You also save the weight of the extensions - every little helps.
Then the driver needs to go on a diet😁

1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users

Mini Spares