#1
Posted 17 April 2018 - 09:53 PM
#2
Posted 17 April 2018 - 10:05 PM
#3
Posted 17 April 2018 - 10:07 PM
Attached Files
#4
Posted 17 April 2018 - 11:15 PM
the spacer was deleted anyway so dont worry about it.
leave final torquing till it is on the ground way easier.
#5
Posted 18 April 2018 - 07:04 AM
the distance between the face of the bearing to the outer face of the bearing seal should be no larger than the width of the machined face on the UJ the bearing seal runs against
i'm pretty sure the bearing seal recess is machined with a step at the bottom to prevent it being driven in too far - could be wrong though
hope this makes sense
..as nicklouse, advises, torgue up once everything is rebuilt, brakes have been been bled and car's back on the ground - an assistant with their foot on the brake will stop anything moving so you can torque it up properly/easily.. just don't forget to do it!! (put a post-it note on the inside of the windscreen to remind you)
Edited by KTS, 18 April 2018 - 07:11 AM.
#6
Posted 18 April 2018 - 12:57 PM
#7
Posted 18 April 2018 - 01:15 PM
What wheel bearings are you using - Timkens tapered?
You can knock the inner oil seal in a bit more. I assume the hub is also new.
When tightened up you will know if the bearings are binding which they shouldn't if of good quality and come as a full bearing kit for a mini, not as individual inner and outer bearings supplied in separate packaging.
#8
Posted 18 April 2018 - 01:39 PM
Done a couple of these and when all’s done worked out okay.
Bearings are minispares own with the whole kit but again not found any issue with these as they are a matched set in the boxes.
FS
#9
Posted 18 April 2018 - 07:58 PM
#10
Posted 18 April 2018 - 08:28 PM
if it was me, i'd make sure the seal is driven fully home into the hub.
the only bit of the UJ that should be in contact with the bearing seal is the machined surface the seal runs against - if the UJ (or plastic spacer) is binding against the body of the seal without being torqued up, it's likely to bind more after it is torqued up, and it won't last long like that. My feeling is that with a failed seal there's in an increased likelihood of premature bearing failure due to loss of lubricant and/or ingress of foreign material
#11
Posted 19 April 2018 - 01:42 PM
It is a CV joint, not a UJ - much older minis, usually Coopers had UJs attached the the differential side of the half shafts
#12
Posted 20 April 2018 - 08:18 PM
I think I will drive that inner oil seal in a bit further as KTS suggests. The plastic shield is in the right place but surely it should go round and round with the the CV joint but should be stationary with the oil seal. Its tight on the outside of the CV joint as you can see from the pictures.
#13
Posted 21 April 2018 - 08:08 AM
Lets get everyone onto the same picture
If you have the latest tapered roller bearings then you might not have the old spacer No.11
Attached Files
Edited by Rorf, 21 April 2018 - 08:10 AM.
#14
Posted 21 April 2018 - 01:44 PM
#15
Posted 21 April 2018 - 02:27 PM
Spacer No 8 was eliminated many years ago from the mini so do not worry about it. The 6 mm is the distance from the white water deflector to the position where the CV touches the bearing inner race.
You need to hammer the inner seal further in towards the bearing.
Many people do not even bother putting the water deflector in either.
Edited by Rorf, 21 April 2018 - 02:29 PM.
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