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Swapping Front Drums For Discs

brakes suspension

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#16 Tonylamb

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Posted 22 April 2018 - 07:43 AM

Thanks everyone, inner seals going in a bit further seems to be the answer.

#17 Spider

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Posted 22 April 2018 - 08:51 AM

Thanks everyone, inner seals going in a bit further seems to be the answer.

 

Actually, no.

 

Pressing the seals in past where there should be will render them ineffectual.

 

If you have a close look at the drawing Rolf kindly posted up you can just make out the location of them.

 

The outer seal fits flush (or in by no more than 1 mm) with the bearing housing of the hub, the inner seal fits up level with where the taper on the bore ends;-

 

f8jliL0.jpg

 

When the factory did fit the seals up with the seal spacers, this is where they were and for the reason in my second line here.

 

The spacers are near enough 5.5 mm thick. 

 

The bearings when fitted correctly should have some pre-load on them and it's likely that's the drag you are feeling

 

There's some more info on that aspect here;-

 

http://www.theminifo...wheel-bearings/



#18 Tonylamb

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Posted 24 April 2018 - 08:35 PM

Actually I decided not to push them in any further I figured on what you said that the seal should come into contact with the CV so pushing them in further was wrong. Why would they have a spacer to hold them out unless they were supposed to be towards the outside?

My bearings were not matched together or joined they came in a box with two bearings inners and outers and the spacer to go in the middle. Both bearings appeared to be exactly the same?

What’s worrying me a little is that having read your article on wheel bearings through the link it appears that there is an inner and an outer bearing. As I said mine had no instructions and looked identical. I didn’t measure them so perhaps I have them round the wrong way. 50/50 shot I suppose?

Or is it just the timkins ones that come with an inner and outer? I got mine as part of the overall kit from Mini spares? I did look at diagrams etc and the haynes manual but didn’t see an inner and outer???

#19 Spider

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Posted 24 April 2018 - 09:16 PM

The Inner and outer bearings are the same (and the same on the rears too), however, once you decide on which bearing will end up on (say) the outside, the cone and cup should kept together for that outside bearing, ie, don't fit the cup from one set to the cone from the other.

 

This is true for Timkens. The other brands I doubt it matters, but it's all part of why Timkens are a superior bearing assembly.



#20 Tonylamb

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Posted 24 April 2018 - 09:26 PM

Few, I was facing down taking it all apart again. Thanks for your help. I rather wish I had read your post on putting the bearings in because I fear I may have put too much grease in them. All the other articles and videos I watched banged on about making sure you packed them properly.

At least though I know that i’ve Got to check that the tapered collar fits properly. I falsely imagined that if it went over the end of the thread it would fit all the way down.

Do you use the washer to torque everything up and then add the collar afterwards? I don’t have a washer but I have a flat nut that fits over the CV joint thread and is big enough to squash everything up in the same way?

#21 Spider

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Posted 24 April 2018 - 09:39 PM

Glad you found some of that info helpful.

 

Do you use the washer to torque everything up and then add the collar afterwards? I don’t have a washer but I have a flat nut that fits over the CV joint thread and is big enough to squash everything up in the same way?

 

I've never used the flat washer ever and I gotta say, I don't see the point. I suspect the 'need' to use it may have come about from ill-fitting tapered washers.
 

All I've ever done is made sure that the tapered washer fits properly to start with and then torqued them up.



#22 Tonylamb

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Posted 24 April 2018 - 09:45 PM

Interesting because i don’t quite understand the washer business because as soon as you release the torque you are back to square one again. You may well be right that it was a way of making sure the tapered washer fitted correctly.

Once I’ve bled the brakes and got some seats in it I can get a volunteer to hold the brakes while I torque it all up. Hopefully not too much grease in them.

#23 Spider

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Posted 24 April 2018 - 10:02 PM

Interesting because i don’t quite understand the washer business because as soon as you release the torque you are back to square one again. You may well be right that it was a way of making sure the tapered washer fitted correctly.

 

Exactly.



#24 nicklouse

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Posted 24 April 2018 - 10:12 PM

as spider says  seat the outer races and assemble may be spin the disc a few times to settle before fully torquing. i also have never used this magic washer.



#25 Tonylamb

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Posted 31 December 2018 - 07:44 AM

Last two jobs before the road test. I need to torque up the front wheel bearings plenty of info on that. But I need to get the lower arm knuckle joint rubber covers on. I cant get them on and them being greasy doesn't help. I wondered if there is a tool or a technique that helps. Or simply so you have to fit the covers with the lower arm off the car. That's a right bugger but may be the only way???

#26 Tonylamb

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Posted 03 January 2019 - 08:52 PM

Managed to use a bent screwdriver as a tool to fit the knuckle joint dust covers. I've used the big washers to torque up the bearing and then gone with 150lbs and round to the next split pin hole. Pretty straight forward. Only thing is the NEARSIDE wheel feels very tight indeed. Is that normal???





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