11 replies to this topic

[Kombi]

I'm nearly done with my suspension refresh and seem to have hit upon a typical problem, rubbing on the front arches. I could use some input on the best way of sorting this out as I'd like to leave metal cutting as a last resort.

 

Here's the setup:

1. Front Disks
2. 10x6 Wide Minilights
3. Hi-Los (set at their lowest)
4. Lower ride-height damper perch.
5. Dampers supposedly intended for lowered Minis.

Outside of that the rest of the suspension bits are stock. I do like the ride height and frankly wish it could be lower, but I'm not sure I'm willing to make that commitment.

 

Here's what it looks like.

 

Right Side

 

Left Side

 

Would a set of adjustable tie rods provide enough adjustment to correct for this?

[nicklouse]

time to get cutting.

 

and fitting adjustable tie bars to correct the suspension as you have lowered it will move the wheels even further forward.

Edited by nicklouse, 22 April 2018 - 07:48 PM.

[imack]

Discs and deep dish 6x10's equals wing and front panel cutting unfortunately.

[Kombi]

Well nuts.

 

Okay, then cutting it is and by the looks of it, hopefully it won't require all that much. I'll also see about ordering up some of the adjustable tie bars.

 

The struggle I have where I'm located is finding anyone within a reasonable distance who could perform an alignment so I've been avoiding adjustable suspension components as much as possible. I've done what I can at home, but it sounds like I'm going to have to get more comfortable with this aspect.

 

I do appreciate the advice.

[nicklouse]

any tyre place should have the means to see what the settings are. you just need one that will either let you spanner on the car or will spanner it for you.

[Kombi]

Unfortunately, here on the west coast of the United States the Mini falls decidedly outside of their databases. Not to mention that their alignment systems/setups/pits cannot handle a track width as narrow as the Mini, not the ones in my town at least.

 

So, being that I'm in need of validation before severing perfectly good sheet-metal here's what I'm proposing...

 

I'll remove the bit below the black line in the photos below. This will start at the union between the two body sections hoping that by removing the lip here I'll minimise any warping I might experience.

 

 

If I knew how to weld, and it's on my list of things to learn, I would probably approach this differently.

Edited by Kombi, 23 April 2018 - 03:17 AM.

[CityEPete]

I'd slit it the other way and carefully fold it out to mimick the arch lip to keep the strength in the front panel, cover the whole area in masking tape and put a rag over some pipe grips and do it slowly and you might get away without any damage, once you are happy with the shape and clearance tape along the edge and cut off the excess metal to match the original width lip all the way around, touch up the bare edges to stop any rust forming. Job done.

I've seen this done very carefully then on the first outing the car hit a pothole going round a corner and the wheel being turned and compressed up still hit the arch lip, cut the tyre to ribbons and ruined the wing and front panel too, ideally I'd want to be able to move the suspension through it's entire range with the rubber cone and trumpet removed to check its clear.

Edited by CityEPete, 23 April 2018 - 12:05 PM.

[Kombi]

I think I understand what you're saying, but just to confirm; I ought to make cuts as shown by the red lines and then bend that section up to form a new lip.

 

 

Should I have these sections welded together after bending?

 

I'm honestly not sure I have the drive to remove the cone and trumpet at this point. It may be necessary to raise the Hi-Lo as it's currently cranked down as low as possible without remove either bolts.

Edited by Kombi, 24 April 2018 - 02:22 AM.

[ings]

i love your wheel/tyre damper setup! perfect color and size.

 

But with this wheels you should go with a full adjustable suspension!

Lower arms/Tie bars/hilo everithing should be adjustet and the car drives 100 times better.

Oherwise it will pull in every direction and in wet conditions very dangerous.

[CityEPete]

I think I understand what you're saying, but just to confirm; I ought to make cuts as shown by the red lines and then bend that section up to form a new lip.
 

 
Should I have these sections welded together after bending?
 
I'm honestly not sure I have the drive to remove the cone and trumpet at this point. It may be necessary to raise the Hi-Lo as it's currently cranked down as low as possible without remove either bolts.

That's it but I don't think you'll need that many cuts, the fold itself should create enough strength I think although a few mig weld tacks wouldn't hurt at a later date.

The trouble with the idea of just raising the car is just moving the problem along, the maximum travel possible will be when the upper bump stop is compressed, if you hit a big bump on a right hand bend and you have just a few mm too much arch left it will ruin the tyre at best, ruin you and the car at worst.

[Kombi]

i love your wheel/tyre damper setup! perfect color and size.

 

But with this wheels you should go with a full adjustable suspension!

Lower arms/Tie bars/hilo everithing should be adjustet and the car drives 100 times better.

Oherwise it will pull in every direction and in wet conditions very dangerous.

 

Thank you, I was quite relieved that the color combo worked as well as it did. The green is a bit tricky.

 

I am inclined to agree with this assessment and I'll likely order these parts up. I suppose I wouldn't be so eager to get this back on the road if it hasn't been off the road for so long now.

 

That's it but I don't think you'll need that many cuts, the fold itself should create enough strength I think although a few mig weld tacks wouldn't hurt at a later date.

The trouble with the idea of just raising the car is just moving the problem along, the maximum travel possible will be when the upper bump stop is compressed, if you hit a big bump on a right hand bend and you have just a few mm too much arch left it will ruin the tyre at best, ruin you and the car at worst.

 

Good, then I think I've got the concept and I'm also glad it won't require that many cuts.

 

I do understand what you're saying and I'll work on trying to put the car through a better range of motion. I definitely don't want to revisit this anytime soon or at least not until a more complete restoration is to be performed.

Edited by Kombi, 25 April 2018 - 02:21 AM.

[Kombi]

I ordered fully adjustable lower control arms and adjustable tie rods today.

 

I just knew this was going to cost more money.

Edited by Kombi, 03 May 2018 - 03:37 AM.