67 replies to this topic

[cal844]

To the OP

please double check the valve clearances then if no improvement check the timing, how old is the coil, if replaced recently where was it purchased and when?

Edited by cal844, 01 May 2018 - 05:33 PM.

[TheFabMini]

To the OP
please double check the valve clearances then if no improvement check the timing, how old is the coil, if replaced recently where was it purchased and when?

I did do the valve clearances before the mot as it was quite tappy but will go over them again
Timing wise I don’t have a light so I’m just following the Haynes manual and old forum posts of lining bits up and advancing it a bit....

The coil I have no idea if it’s age or where it’s from I’m afraid.. it doesn’t look old though, the previous owner was a serial replacer or parts so my guess would be it’s been on the car for 3-5 years but hasn’t been used until I got the car going again this year

[cal844]

We don't use a timing light either. You want to

Mark the dizzy where you can see the marks(as a reference for you to adjust)

Loosen the bolt on the dizzy clamp(just enough so you can move it slightly)

Disconnect and plug the vacuum advance pipe.
Start engine and warm up slightly.
Set RPM to 2000

Move timing listening to the engine. You want to have the timing so the engine lifts rpm, then back slightly (1-2°) without pinking

Hold dizzy still and tighten clamp then switch off the engine and restart once you have fully tightened the bolt, now refit the vacuum advance pipe and then restart the engine and road test.

Sounds complicated but 5 minutes will complete the tweaks.


Once you have road tested the car... IF you need to move the timing again you should carry out the above every time, preferably but you could(if you have good co-ordination) tweak the timing with the engine off

Edited by cal844, 01 May 2018 - 06:14 PM.

[TheFabMini]

We don't use a timing light either. You want to

Mark the dizzy where you can see the marks(as a reference for you to adjust)

Loosen the bolt on the dizzy clamp(just enough so you can move it slightly)

Disconnect and plug the vacuum advance pipe.
Start engine and warm up slightly.
Set RPM to 2000

Move timing listening to the engine. You want to have the timing so the engine lifts rpm, then back slightly (1-2°) without pinking

Hold dizzy still and tighten clamp then switch off the engine and restart once you have fully tightened the bolt, now refit the vacuum advance pipe and then restart the engine and road test.

Sounds complicated but 5 minutes will complete the tweaks.


Once you have road tested the car... IF you need to move the timing again you should carry out the above every time, preferably but you could(if you have good co-ordination) tweak the timing with the engine off

 

will have a bit off a mess about on my next day off, but have got in contact with a local chap who through my local mini owners club whos gonna have a look at it for me. as much as i want to do everything myself I dont want to end up wasting money trying to fix the wrong part.

[Archived1]

I know there is a lot of experienced mini owners on here but it all sounds a bit desperate telling someone to tear the engine apart. The compression readings are not the best, but surely we should be advising to check everything else before stripping the head off, if the OP isnt that confident with the mechanics (that is no criticism by the way) it is easy to be blinded by the obvious and things to be missed. We cant see the engine so we are commenting on only what is being told. In the video(s) it appears to accelerate quite well just no real top end. So many factors that are involved and it is basically diagnosing blind.
Sorry if my comment offends anyone that has tried to help but it all seemed a bit drastic.
Ill crawl back under my shell now.

The thread started of with easy checks such as carb etc etc. As things have progressed its become painfully obvious that theres a reason for low compression.

No offence taken, were all just trying to help the guy 👍

Edited by Elf is a mini, 01 May 2018 - 10:07 PM.

[Archived1]

Youre not a million miles away from me... pm me Chris

Edited by Elf is a mini, 01 May 2018 - 10:01 PM.

[cp2708]

Why are owners these days so afraid of revving their Minis. The original 850, 997 Cooper, 998 Cooper, 1071 'S' and 970 'S' all had a 3.76:1 FDR as standard and the 1275 'S' had a 3.44:1.

 

Those ratios allow for all-day cruising at over 60 mph in the case of a 3.76 and 75 to 8 with a 3.44. These are old slow classic cars and need to be driven as they were when first new. I should think a 998 with a 2.9:1 FDR could well be faster in 3rd than in top. We used to say that an 850 would do 20, 40, 60 and 75 in the gears, whilst a 998 Cooper would do 30, 50, 70 and just under 90 in the gears using around 6000 rpm at change up point.

 

Because it sounds like it's going to explode! The guy who did the tune up thrashed it's pants off though and told me not to be afraid to. It just sounds so harsh when you're used to driving a straight 6 BMW! I have noticed though if you get past 70mph some of the resonance seems to go and it feels/sounds smoother.

[cal844]

Why are owners these days so afraid of revving their Minis. The original 850, 997 Cooper, 998 Cooper, 1071 'S' and 970 'S' all had a 3.76:1 FDR as standard and the 1275 'S' had a 3.44:1.
 
Those ratios allow for all-day cruising at over 60 mph in the case of a 3.76 and 75 to 8 with a 3.44. These are old slow classic cars and need to be driven as they were when first new. I should think a 998 with a 2.9:1 FDR could well be faster in 3rd than in top. We used to say that an 850 would do 20, 40, 60 and 75 in the gears, whilst a 998 Cooper would do 30, 50, 70 and just under 90 in the gears using around 6000 rpm at change up point.

 
Because it sounds like it's going to explode! The guy who did the tune up thrashed it's pants off though and told me not to be afraid to. It just sounds so harsh when you're used to driving a straight 6 BMW! I have noticed though if you get past 70mph some of the resonance seems to go and it feels/sounds smoother.

That's the nature of old cars.