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Austin America(Princess) Remote Gearbox To Rod Change?

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#1 SomethingNew71

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Posted 23 April 2018 - 11:04 PM

Hey everyone,

 

Some of you may already know but I run a mini youtube channel and I am in the process of a pretty large engine job. It started as a transition from U-Joints to CV's but now its evolved (damn project creep) and I am 99% sure I will be swapping my big old remote box with a rod change box. Now before anyone says anything I KNOW the remote box is more solid and less rocky rocky. But with the box I have that uses that sandwich plate, the big old housing, and what I believe might be some crumby welding work on the floor the box has ALWAYS given me headaches in terms of fitment and engine position. This has led to constant annoying rattles, misalignment and collision of other parts and all around HEADACHE.

 

So what I have come to you guys for is guidance on the conversion process. 

 

Current setup is:

  • Pre-Verto Clutch
  • Remote Gearbox
  • 2.95 Final Drive
  • U-Joint Outputs

Future Setup will be

  • Pre-Verto Clutch (Keep current)
  • Rod Change Gearbox (Purchased used from a friend here in the USA)
  • 2.95 Final Drive (Keep current)
  • New 4-pin Diff (thanks Paul Jeffries)
  • CV Outputs 
  • New CV axles

Are there any special considerations I need to take into account for a conversion like this that you guys can think of?



#2 Retroman

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Posted 23 April 2018 - 11:36 PM

Looks like you have it mostly covered

 

A 22g1832 gearbox casting would enable a direct swap.

 

You may need to change the drop gears to the later type, or bush the idler gear bearing housings down to use the smaller bearings

 

The idler gear bearings on most of the rod change boxes are bigger...all the DAM casing numbers

 

You can buy (or have made) reducer bushes to allow you to re-use the early drop gears you have in a later DAM type casing.

 

If you do re-use your existing drop gears you will have to swap the bottom one too.

 

If you need the bushes let me know...



#3 nicklouse

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Posted 23 April 2018 - 11:36 PM

dont forget the rod linkage with bushes. 

 

look to adding two lower engine stabilisers 

 

you will need to cut out the floor for the shifter.

 

then the fun bit the transfer case needs to match the gearbox and drop gears. early and late idler gears have different axle sizes.



#4 SomethingNew71

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Posted 24 April 2018 - 01:24 AM

Looks like you have it mostly covered

 

A 22g1832 gearbox casting would enable a direct swap.

 

You may need to change the drop gears to the later type, or bush the idler gear bearing housings down to use the smaller bearings

 

The idler gear bearings on most of the rod change boxes are bigger...all the DAM casing numbers

 

You can buy (or have made) reducer bushes to allow you to re-use the early drop gears you have in a later DAM type casing.

 

If you do re-use your existing drop gears you will have to swap the bottom one too.

 

If you need the bushes let me know...

 

Great info thank you. Do you think it would be a better idea to get new drop gears or would you bush up the idler gear? It feels like bushing it up would be much easier. I definitely will need some. How much would it cost for the reducer?

 

EDIT: Is this it - http://www.guess-wor...play.htm?id=553

 

 

dont forget the rod linkage with bushes. 

 

look to adding two lower engine stabilisers 

 

you will need to cut out the floor for the shifter.

 

then the fun bit the transfer case needs to match the gearbox and drop gears. early and late idler gears have different axle sizes.

 

Do you think adding two lower engine stabilizers is needed or just stick with one? Will the current remote shifter not line up with the new rod change? I assumed the shifter would be in the same place. 


Edited by SomethingNew71, 24 April 2018 - 01:28 AM.


#5 timmy850

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Posted 24 April 2018 - 01:49 AM

Do you currently have the single top steady, or do you also have the thermostat end one?

 

You can get a remote-rod conversion bracket which can make your life easier. 

https://www.7ent.com...ion-for036.html

https://www.minimani...-Non-Rod-Change

https://www.minimani...ion_Bracket_928

 

The early cars had a round tunnel and the later had a flat top, so the normal 22G2026 bracket won't work

Attached File  22G2026MM.GIF   11.26K   1 downloads


Edited by timmy850, 24 April 2018 - 01:55 AM.


#6 nicklouse

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Posted 24 April 2018 - 07:21 AM

Do you think adding two lower engine stabilizers is needed or just stick with one? Will the current remote shifter not line up with the new rod change? I assumed the shifter would be in the same place.

ok minimum of one lower stabilizer extra. the opening is different as the housing for the stick is different while the stick may be in the same place.

#7 mini13

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Posted 24 April 2018 - 07:35 AM

somthing not mentioned is rod length, i think the america will need the rods lengthened slightly, but thats a minor detail, just make sure you ahve some tube handy to sleeve them .



#8 Retroman

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Posted 24 April 2018 - 12:57 PM

http://www.guess-wor...play.htm?id=553

 

Yep thats the bush if you want to use the existing gears in DAM**** casings (you need 2 bushes)

 

The later gears are slightly quieter and the idler bearings are bigger/stronger, and new is better. The flywheel housing has to match the idler gear too.

 

Don't forget to set the end-float on the primary and idler gear too, it should be 0.003" to 0.005" ...even using the old set it needs checking and may need thicker thrust washer(s).



#9 SomethingNew71

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Posted 24 April 2018 - 01:23 PM

Do you currently have the single top steady, or do you also have the thermostat end one?

 

You can get a remote-rod conversion bracket which can make your life easier. 

https://www.7ent.com...ion-for036.html

https://www.minimani...-Non-Rod-Change

https://www.minimani...ion_Bracket_928

 

The early cars had a round tunnel and the later had a flat top, so the normal 22G2026 bracket won't work

attachicon.gif22G2026MM.GIF

 

Awesome this diagram is IMMENSELY helpful thank you. I was wondering how I would mount it to the back area. Now I know! I currently have a single adjustable top engine steady on the flywheel side.

 

 

Do you think adding two lower engine stabilizers is needed or just stick with one? Will the current remote shifter not line up with the new rod change? I assumed the shifter would be in the same place.

ok minimum of one lower stabilizer extra. the opening is different as the housing for the stick is different while the stick may be in the same place.

 

 

Word I will plan to install the lower steady then. I might as well put two down there, the car already vibrates a lot, I'm sure I won't notice any more engine vibrations hahaha.

 

somthing not mentioned is rod length, i think the america will need the rods lengthened slightly, but thats a minor detail, just make sure you ahve some tube handy to sleeve them .

 

Rod lengths? Which rods exactly?

 

http://www.guess-wor...play.htm?id=553

 

Yep thats the bush if you want to use the existing gears in DAM**** casings (you need 2 bushes)

 

The later gears are slightly quieter and the idler bearings are bigger/stronger, and new is better. The flywheel housing has to match the idler gear too.

 

Don't forget to set the end-float on the primary and idler gear too, it should be 0.003" to 0.005" ...even using the old set it needs checking and may need thicker thrust washer(s).

 

I would really like to keep the existing flywheel housing so I don't have to spend anymore money than needed. Noise isn't a huge concern for me but if the later gears are substantially stronger I might need to consider a change.



#10 nicklouse

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Posted 24 April 2018 - 01:32 PM

as stated the flywheel housing "Wok" are the same. the transfer case Must match the gearbox or it aint going together unless you use a conversion bearing in the larger hole (again presuming the new box takes that larger idler gear set which it may not no info on new box given).

 

Mini13 was thinking the car is not a Mini.



#11 timmy850

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Posted 24 April 2018 - 09:17 PM

I think all the rod change cars had the extra top steady on the thermostat end. You get much more leverage on the top ones than the bottom ones, Id think adding one would be preferable to the bottom ones

#12 cal844

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Posted 24 April 2018 - 09:55 PM

I think all the rod change cars had the extra top steady on the thermostat end. You get much more leverage on the top ones than the bottom ones, Id think adding one would be preferable to the bottom ones


None ever did a standard, they were optional, often aftermarket

#13 nicklouse

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Posted 24 April 2018 - 09:57 PM

I think all the rod change cars had the extra top steady on the thermostat end. You get much more leverage on the top ones than the bottom ones, Id think adding one would be preferable to the bottom ones

may be in Aus but not in the UK.



#14 nicklouse

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Posted 24 April 2018 - 10:01 PM

 

Do you think adding two lower engine stabilizers is needed or just stick with one? Will the current remote shifter not line up with the new rod change? I assumed the shifter would be in the same place.

ok minimum of one lower stabilizer extra. the opening is different as the housing for the stick is different while the stick may be in the same place.

 


remote housing in a rod shell
lLOTSqz.jpg



#15 mini13

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Posted 25 April 2018 - 09:22 AM

Nicklouse, which remote is that? mini or the one with the rubber sandwich?

Ive not measured them but i thoght the rubber sandwich one was slightly longer than the mini remote, if only by the amount of the rubber sanwich bit,

 

to the OP essentially, the rod change has 2 rods... dependeing where the shift ends up in your America, you might need to change the length of these, easiest thing is to get some steel tube the right bore to slip snugly over the rods, then cut and possition, and weld them up.

 

 

 

ah! sorry from the title I assumed this was not in a mini, ignore my ramblings!


Edited by mini13, 25 April 2018 - 09:35 AM.






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