Rear Knuckle Joint - Nylon Cups
#16
Posted 04 May 2018 - 09:08 AM
#17
Posted 04 May 2018 - 09:47 AM
Genuine knuckles come in Rover boxes, complete with a good rubber boot and a very hard nylon cup, pre greased.
Anything else is a cheap copy, for the sake of 10 quid a side its not worth using anything but OE Rover ones.
If the KAD knuckle sockets are not a snug fit using genuine knuckles/cups you need to contact them.
#19
Posted 11 May 2018 - 07:38 AM
Sorry, I meant to post up here a few days ago!
In standard arms, the bore size is 1-1/8" or 1.125"
The Nylon cups are slightly tapered, while I haven't measured them, they are a very loose fit at the base of them (diameter wise) and get bigger near the lip for the rubber boot.
I'd suggest, that as long as there's always some pressure on the knuckle (ie, don't lower it more than the stops will allow keeping some pressure on), they'll be fine.
Looking at your measurement there of the socket hole in the arm, it does appear a little over size (1.133"), but as above, if there's some pressure on it, it'll be fine.
I would also recommend (with any arms) to grease the outside on the nylon cup before fitting as this will minimise corrosion (or rust in the case of stock arms) and make them considerably easier to remove when it come time to replace them.
#20
Posted 11 May 2018 - 07:58 AM
I can't tell from the photo, but is there a breather at the bottom of the hole?
It might not matter as much if your cups are very loose, but when they're an air tight fit (especially when greased) it does make fitting them much easier. On one set of arms I had I opened the hole out and tapped it to fit a grease nipple - removing old cups was then really easy (if a little messy)!
Edited by GraemeC, 11 May 2018 - 07:59 AM.
#21
Posted 11 May 2018 - 09:02 AM
Just so you know there is no resistance at all! When they are pushed fully into place! If I tip the arm upside down they just fall out.
But you guys seem to think that this wont be an issue and that they wont fall out once everything is in place correct.
I wonder if I could maybe put something round the cup just so it grips a bit, say like some insulation tape? Do you think it would be worth it?
Cheers
Kev
#22
Posted 11 May 2018 - 09:24 AM
That could work - just enough to make them a snug fit, but ensure they sit on the bottom of the hole properly
Given you won't be running that car low I would't expect that they'll be able to come out, even on full droop - you'll soon know when you build them up.
However I would want to make sure they stay located - even if they only have a little movement if you have a heavy landing the ball is going to hammer the cup against the arm and then they won't last long.
#23
Posted 11 May 2018 - 10:41 AM
Cheers for all of the info guys.
Just so you know there is no resistance at all! When they are pushed fully into place! If I tip the arm upside down they just fall out.
But you guys seem to think that this wont be an issue and that they wont fall out once everything is in place correct.
I wonder if I could maybe put something round the cup just so it grips a bit, say like some insulation tape? Do you think it would be worth it?
Cheers
Kev
i would not put anything around them at all. that difference is next to nothing. also as already mentioned they are tapered. what is the measurement on the cup where it would be where you measured on the arm?
#25
Posted 25 May 2018 - 02:35 PM
Just another quick questions about suspension knuckles, should there be some sort of grease in the cup where the knuckle sits?
The reason I ask, is when I was fitting the OE ones, the rubber cap popped off one and there was not a single drop of grease in there!
surely that cant be correct, can it?
Thanks
#26
Posted 25 May 2018 - 02:56 PM
Yes there should!
#27
Posted 25 May 2018 - 03:13 PM
Just measured a OE cup and it comes out at 28.65 so a very slight variance. Rover old stock. And yes it needs a rubber seal
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#28
Posted 25 May 2018 - 03:46 PM
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