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Crank Lock Tab?


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#1 HUBBA.HUBBA

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Posted 26 April 2018 - 12:44 PM

I must be having a moment (again). I can't think for the life of me how it works. Yes you bend the tab up round the bolt head but what stops both of them spinning off together. Is it a case of as you tighten the bolt it creates an indent on the crank and this stops it from moving. The cam tab has a little nip in it that slots in withe the woodruff key but not the crank!

Please enlighten me.

Cheers

 

ps. its's a billet alloy pulley by the way 


Edited by HUBBA.HUBBA, 26 April 2018 - 12:50 PM.


#2 nicklouse

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Posted 26 April 2018 - 01:04 PM

wrong end

there is a depression in the standard pulley. the washer should be staked into that.

 

just use thread lock here.


Edited by nicklouse, 26 April 2018 - 01:05 PM.


#3 black olive

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Posted 26 April 2018 - 01:51 PM

A while ago I asked Jim at R.A.C.E whather I should fit a new lockwasher after replacing the crank oil seal. His response, in typical Jim fashion was "take the old one in your dominant hand, walk to the workshop door, and throw the Fing thing as far as you can, then Loctite the nut on"  :lol:

 

and the torque figure for the nut is "tighten until you can see black spots in your vision prior to nearly passing out "



#4 nicklouse

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Posted 26 April 2018 - 02:18 PM

A while ago I asked Jim at R.A.C.E whather I should fit a new lockwasher after replacing the crank oil seal. His response, in typical Jim fashion was "take the old one in your dominant hand, walk to the workshop door, and throw the Fing thing as far as you can, then Loctite the nut on"  :lol:

 

and the torque figure for the nut is "tighten until you can see black spots in your vision prior to nearly passing out "

HUbba is on about the other end.



#5 hhhh

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Posted 26 April 2018 - 03:02 PM

Although not applicable to this situation, a word of caution regarding lock tabs/washers: I usually chuck them in favour of Loctite but there are instances where they are not only a lock washer but act as a plain washer as well. I discarded the one in my Norton Commando clutch center and that was enough to reduce the radius of engagement of the mainshaft nut on the clutch center so that it allowed the splines (6 of them, about 1.5" long of hardened steel) to shift enough to shear them clean off. I was left on the side of the highway with no forward motion in any gear which was most distressing.



#6 HUBBA.HUBBA

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Posted 26 April 2018 - 03:12 PM

A while ago I asked Jim at R.A.C.E whather I should fit a new lockwasher after replacing the crank oil seal. His response, in typical Jim fashion was "take the old one in your dominant hand, walk to the workshop door, and throw the Fing thing as far as you can, then Loctite the nut on"  :lol:
 
and the torque figure for the nut is "tighten until you can see black spots in your vision prior to nearly passing out "

HUbba is on about the other end.
Timing gear end

#7 Sprocket

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Posted 26 April 2018 - 05:11 PM

A while ago I asked Jim at R.A.C.E whather I should fit a new lockwasher after replacing the crank oil seal. His response, in typical Jim fashion was "take the old one in your dominant hand, walk to the workshop door, and throw the Fing thing as far as you can, then Loctite the nut on"  :lol:
 
and the torque figure for the nut is "tighten until you can see black spots in your vision prior to nearly passing out "


Word of caution on the 'FT' theory. The nose of the crank can and does break off.



#8 nicklouse

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Posted 26 April 2018 - 05:48 PM

 

 

A while ago I asked Jim at R.A.C.E whather I should fit a new lockwasher after replacing the crank oil seal. His response, in typical Jim fashion was "take the old one in your dominant hand, walk to the workshop door, and throw the Fing thing as far as you can, then Loctite the nut on"  :lol:
 
and the torque figure for the nut is "tighten until you can see black spots in your vision prior to nearly passing out "

HUbba is on about the other end.
Timing gear end

 

here is the edge you stake it against on a standard one

c187VW4.jpg



#9 Spider

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Posted 26 April 2018 - 08:29 PM

The 'pulley' being what it is, is no doubt intended to use with loctite.

 

The new locktabs are too soft these days in any case. I gave up using them anywhere long ago,where needed I use locktab in a bottle (Loctite).

 

However, can you throw up a photo of your 'pulley'?



#10 HUBBA.HUBBA

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Posted 28 April 2018 - 11:06 AM

The 'pulley' being what it is, is no doubt intended to use with loctite.
 
The new locktabs are too soft these days in any case. I gave up using them anywhere long ago,where needed I use locktab in a bottle (Loctite).
 
However, can you throw up a photo of your 'pulley'?

Attached File  20180428_093829.jpg   24.67K   6 downloads

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#11 Spider

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Posted 28 April 2018 - 06:31 PM

Cheers for the photos.

 

Does that incorporate a damper?



#12 Cooperman

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Posted 28 April 2018 - 08:13 PM

Loctite is the best way to ensure the crank pulley bolt is secure. 



#13 nicklouse

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Posted 28 April 2018 - 08:42 PM

Cheers for the photos.

 

Does that incorporate a damper?

dont look like it. i have a feeling there was comment about a supercharger.



#14 HUBBA.HUBBA

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Posted 29 April 2018 - 06:10 PM

Cheers for the photos.
 
Does that incorporate a damper?

It's a pulley for an vmax supercharger kit. No damper.




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