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2000 Cooper Driving Resto


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#16 Steve220

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Posted 29 September 2018 - 07:46 PM

Great effort! I found it easier to accept i was going to strip the entire car to a shell and repair it. Looks like you're cracking on with it well!

#17 Harryrothers93

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Posted 29 September 2018 - 07:47 PM

I started by removing the rear valance / closing panels / boot floor to make way for the new panels

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#18 cookie4343

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Posted 29 September 2018 - 08:22 PM

Lovely looking mini, your making the panel replacement look easy. You stated 1 week to do the rear arches boot floor and rebuild
the rear Subframe. Is this still the case.

#19 Harryrothers93

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Posted 30 September 2018 - 05:58 AM

I offered up the new boot floor, and with the measurements I had taken before I removed the old subframe mounts I made sure the holes aligned properly before I plug welded to the arches 

 

unfortunately not mate, tried my best but didn't quite get there

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#20 Harryrothers93

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Posted 30 September 2018 - 06:01 AM

Steve220

 

thanks!

 

I think after all that I found it just makes sense this way instead of doing small patches here and there to get it through the mot 



#21 Harryrothers93

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Posted 30 September 2018 - 06:24 AM

I then replaced / repaired the arches before putting the closing panels and rear valance on. not sure on which way round todo this if it even matters at all, but worked well for me 

 

I have been using heritage panels and so far the fitment has been great 

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Edited by Harryrothers93, 30 September 2018 - 07:44 AM.


#22 jamesquintin

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Posted 30 September 2018 - 06:34 AM

Same rust as mine...

Some tips:
If the floor is quite bad, replace the whole thing with the full heritage injection floor. Yes it's expensive but you will save potentially months of work

Same with inner wings, just replace the lot

With boot floor, the heritage panel doesn't include the front stiffener or the battery nut/cage, so you'll have to take them off.

Don't throw any panels away until the end as you'll need them for reference.

In fact don't chuck ant part away until you're done as there are a few things that aren't made anymore.


If you're interested I am getting some of the original floor sound proofing recut to the original shape...

Q

#23 Harryrothers93

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Posted 30 September 2018 - 07:41 AM

the rust on theses younger minis seems to be far worse than the older ones....I don't think I have found a seam as yet that isn't rusting out....

 

I have looked through your build thread. quality job is an understatement, the attention to detail is spot on.

 

front stiffener?

 

would you say that would be better than using them sound proofing sheets that I have seen a lot of mini owners use? can't remember what its called....



#24 jamesquintin

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Posted 30 September 2018 - 08:01 AM

the rust on theses younger minis seems to be far worse than the older ones....I don't think I have found a seam as yet that isn't rusting out....

 

I have looked through your build thread. quality job is an understatement, the attention to detail is spot on.

 

front stiffener?

 

would you say that would be better than using them sound proofing sheets that I have seen a lot of mini owners use? can't remember what its called....

 

Along the leading edge of the boot floor is an L shaped piece of metal that stiffens the front up.

 

I'm going for factory, hence getting the sound deadening panels cut to shape, also makes installation easier

Q
 



#25 Harryrothers93

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Posted 30 September 2018 - 08:07 AM

having repaired the rear arches I went on to welding the new rear valance and closing panels.

 

I think the hardest thing for me on this task was getting the holes of the subframe mount to line up with the closing panel and get the valance to sit where I wanted...

 

and welding upside down, I'm also not keen on that either!

 

I added a bead to the washer bottle holder as there was a slight bit of surface rust 

 

a question I do have is could anyone measure up there fuel tank mount ? would save me the effort of lifting the fuel tank back in...

 

 tip.. its a good shout to empty the fuel tank before lifting out. To give you an idea of weight comparison. Full tank = moon. Empty tank = gold fish 

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#26 Steve220

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Posted 30 September 2018 - 08:52 AM

Where you've fit the rear valance, force zinc in between the seam with the boot floor then seal it with something like tiger seal. They're a bloody rust trap there!

#27 Harryrothers93

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Posted 30 September 2018 - 10:37 AM

good call with the tiger seal!

 

was going to try and get seam sealer up there but might be far easier with a sealant gun 



#28 Steve220

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Posted 30 September 2018 - 10:51 AM

I'm pretty sure every point where 2 or more panels meet on mine are full of zinc and sealed lol

Edited by Steve220, 30 September 2018 - 10:52 AM.


#29 Harryrothers93

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Posted 30 September 2018 - 02:51 PM

managed to get bit of painting done today.  

 

is a very time consuming job is grinding to bare metal ready for primer... but if somethings worth doing might aswell do it properly I guess

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#30 Harryrothers93

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Posted 03 October 2018 - 06:00 AM

I will be cutting out the full floor over the next couple of weeks, but I have a question about bracing...

 

what should be enough ?? aha  

 

im thinking across both door entry from rear door bin to front inner arch then two pieces across width wise?

 

I need to take both door steps out as well?

 

any help would be appreciated


Edited by Harryrothers93, 03 October 2018 - 06:30 AM.





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