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Paint Fumes


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#1 Mito

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Posted 14 May 2018 - 07:56 PM

I'm just looking into the feasibility of being able to spray in my garage in a residential area. It's large enough to move around the car, so space isn't an issue but I don't want to gas the neighbors.

What I'm more concerned with is the fumes that it will generate. I'm looking at getting an Apollo 1500 hvlp set up, which should keep the overspray down.

One of my neighbor's sprays and he gets complaints about the fumes. So, what I'm thinking is, if I make a temporary sealed booth using pvc sheets like used in tent windows and also put a carbon filter in line with the extractor fan (explosion proof), that the booth should keep the fumes contained while the extraction and filter does its job.

I'm also getting an air fed mask as well, which I intend to feed from a Martindale turbine to avoid the horrible compressor fumes!

Does this sound like it might work?

#2 Ben_O

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Posted 14 May 2018 - 08:14 PM

In an industrial application, the extraction stack has to extend at least 3 feet above the highest point of the buildings roof. I don't know where you would stand with extracting it out low

A carbon filter may filter the fumes you are extracting but I'm not sure if it will stop the smell. This is what people will complain about.

The other thing you need to consider with extraction is clearance time and the rate in which the mist will extract. If you are spraying in a tight space, the room will very quickly fill with mist and if your extractor can't keep up with it, then you won't be able to see a thing and all of the paint mist will settle on your wet paint and spoil the finish.

 

What paint do you intend to use?



#3 Daz1968

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Posted 14 May 2018 - 08:25 PM

I did similar with my project, I built a wooden frame in garage with plastic masking sheet used as wall, made a door out of thick cardboard and put a booth filter at each end, I blow air in so the booth inflates slightly and mist is blown through filter at other end, I also painted floor with pva and always wet it down before spraying, I only use a devilbiss sri spraygun and I painted the car in sections to minimise overspray, also only painted when no one was around, not had any complaints and I know paint mist wouldn’t get anywhere, biggest problem is as above the smell, especially from the gun thinner when cleaning up. I wouldn’t do it if garage was attached to house, mine is at bottom of garden, I don’t think you will get a big enough single phase fan to clear an area completely anyway.

#4 Mito

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Posted 14 May 2018 - 08:42 PM

I'm using jotamastic 87 primer. I'm undecided on whether to go baseband clear or celulose. I want it to last and be scratch and petrol resistant and I get the impression that celulose won't provide this sort of coating.

#5 Mito

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Posted 14 May 2018 - 08:44 PM

Spraying the car in sections is probably the only way I can do it anyway as it's a full respray - inside, outside, underneath, boot, engine bay.

#6 Daz1968

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Posted 14 May 2018 - 09:11 PM

Here is a pic of the one end of my home made booth, panel nearest wall is booth filter material, have another on opposite corner
It has worked pretty well but I use a 300mm fume extractor blowing into the booth which clears fumes reasonably well.

23560500148_329aeb623b_z.jpgIMG_2169 by darren carr, on Flickr

#7 Mito

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Posted 15 May 2018 - 07:11 AM

That looks like what I'm thinking of but without the booth filters in the corners.

I was thinking of placing one of these inside the enclosure and wrapping it in booth filter material to stop it blocking up too quickly with overspray.

https://www.growell....on-filters.html

Edited by Mito, 15 May 2018 - 07:12 AM.


#8 Daz1968

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Posted 15 May 2018 - 09:06 AM

The one in my picture is the inlet filter material on other end it is approx. 50mm thick outlet material designed to catch paint mist. has worked fine for my needs, don't think carbon filters would work for very long with the fumes,

#9 Jase

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Posted 16 May 2018 - 04:36 PM

Cellulose is the only way to go if you are spraying at home. Has to be the safest method for everyone.



#10 Mito

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Posted 16 May 2018 - 04:53 PM

Cellulose is the only way to go if you are spraying at home. Has to be the safest method for everyone.

 

I'm considering giving the local EA a call to seek their advice on this as there doesn't appear to be a consensus on this and all I can find in terms of official documents is pretty much covered below. All it suggests is ensuring adequate ventilation which suggests that once it is dispersed in open air there is limited risk. Plus, smart repairers are allowed to spray in open air.

 

http://www.hse.gov.u...isocyanates.htm

 

I'm trying to avoid a debate on whether or not it is safe to spray 2k at home  :proud: and keep this more to containing and filtering any overspray and other fumes as far as is possible.



#11 Richie83

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Posted 16 May 2018 - 05:16 PM

Other option is to find a friendly garage with a booth that might let you spray.

#12 Mito

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Posted 16 May 2018 - 05:23 PM

Other option is to find a friendly garage with a booth that might let you spray.

 

Unfortunately I don't know of any and the only one which I have found that offers to hire out it's booth etc is based down south!  :ohno: This would have been my preferred option though. :shades:



#13 DeadSquare

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Posted 16 May 2018 - 05:53 PM

In a month it will be light enough to spray a section a day at 4.30 AM when every one will be asleep,



#14 Mito

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Posted 16 May 2018 - 06:49 PM

In a month it will be light enough to spray a section a day at 4.30 AM when every one will be asleep,

until the noise from the turbines/compressor wakes them up :lol:

Edited by Mito, 16 May 2018 - 06:50 PM.


#15 Mito

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Posted 16 May 2018 - 08:40 PM

I found an interesting research paper on the use of spray rooms and NCO/isocyanate exposure.

http://www.hse.gov.u...rrpdf/rr496.pdf

The conclusion indicates that using a combination of paint stopper filters and eu5/f5 filters, removes 94-98% of the isocyanate from the exhaust air. RPE is still a requirement during spraying and gun cleaning.




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