Mk3 Mini 1000 Aqua 1970
#31
Posted 15 December 2018 - 08:40 PM
Been a while since last update.
#32
Posted 29 December 2018 - 10:56 AM
#33
Posted 29 December 2018 - 12:30 PM
....I had an operation but hopefully going to kick on in the new year....
An operation!.... Do we need to call you Gloria now? -whatever floats your boat, as long as you're OK now.
Looking forward to seeing some progress on this if it's going to end up as good as your old Black Tulip Mini.
#34
Posted 29 December 2018 - 12:40 PM
Ha ha I had a hernia operation.An operation!.... Do we need to call you Gloria now? -whatever floats your boat, as long as you're OK now.
....I had an operation but hopefully going to kick on in the new year....
Looking forward to seeing some progress on this if it's going to end up as good as your old Black Tulip Mini.
Im hoping this one turns out even better than blacktulip as this is a bare shell rebuild.
Edited by blacktulip, 29 December 2018 - 12:41 PM.
#35
Posted 30 December 2018 - 05:13 PM
I can't get over just how badly and how thoroughly Minis rust over there....I admire and respect you guys for taking one this bad back from the brink!
I hope you get to feeling up to it again soon. As far as lifting it, I think a large plank run side to side - one in the front and one near the heelboard should get it up ok, considering you have most of the weight out of the shell now.
I have had one nearly this bad in my shop, I have a ift, but this is how I had to support it (boards across the front and rear) to get it up in the air so I could remove the engine.
#36
Posted 31 December 2018 - 04:47 PM
I have removed the engine, glass, bonnet, boot and interior. I'm planning on taking the weight off of the wheels then taking the hubs and shafts off each side. It looks horrific but I'm determined to repair it. Just need the moneyI can't get over just how badly and how thoroughly Minis rust over there....I admire and respect you guys for taking one this bad back from the brink!
I hope you get to feeling up to it again soon. As far as lifting it, I think a large plank run side to side - one in the front and one near the heelboard should get it up ok, considering you have most of the weight out of the shell now.
I have had one nearly this bad in my shop, I have a ift, but this is how I had to support it (boards across the front and rear) to get it up in the air so I could remove the engine.
#37
Posted 19 May 2019 - 07:02 PM
#38
Posted 26 May 2019 - 02:17 PM
Pulled it out of the garage to have a good sweep up first before tackling some jobs. It dont look too bad on this side.
This side is a different story
Rear valance hanging off
Remote gear linkage and exhaust removed. It's the first time I've been underneath it so far.... oh dear ??
Dodgy camber
Working area
Original heater removed
Makeshift trumpet as proper one is split in half. Now it rolls level on the front at least.
So a good few hours work. Next job is to get two scaffold boards at 1.6m and a few thermalite blocks to get it off the ground before bracing. Then I will think about dropping the subframes.
#39
Posted 01 June 2019 - 04:16 PM
Look at the grot on these areas ?
I hope this is just surface rust otherwise it's a new fron subframe.
Interior pretty much stripped out. I left the steering wheel in case I need to move the shell.
I got some 5x2 treated wood from work and jacked the rear up on it to get it level. Then i jacked up the front on axel stands. I measured a few areas inside the shell to see if it's still square and it seems good give or take a few mm. I hope to get some bracing bar in the next few weeks and get it welded in.
I kept this plate on the inner wing and will try and fix it to the new panel once it's in.
These little babies are worth their weight in gold. I honestly don't know how people can get by without them when restoring.
#40
Posted 01 June 2019 - 05:57 PM
Are you planning to get it up on a rotisserie? To me that's about the only way to properly replace all the sheet metal under the car that this one needs.
#41
Posted 01 June 2019 - 06:07 PM
Yes I'm planning on getting it on a rotisserie as soon as it's braced and subframes off. Ideally I want as much weight off before I raise it up which means no subframes. I don't want to take them off (especially the front) before the bracing in case it twists. Same with the doors. I plan to have the doors closed when I brace up too.Are you planning to get it up on a rotisserie? To me that's about the only way to properly replace all the sheet metal under the car that this one needs.
Edited by blacktulip, 01 June 2019 - 06:09 PM.
#42
Posted 02 June 2019 - 06:54 AM
Look forward to seeing some more work on this nice job so far. It is defo a car worth saving
#43
Posted 02 June 2019 - 08:27 AM
#44
Posted 04 June 2019 - 04:02 PM
Full floor £750
A panel lh £24.42
A panel rh £24.42
Wing lh £60
Wing rh £60
Front panel £203.52
Lower scuttle £145.40
Door step lh £16.80
Door step rh £16.80
Rear valance £59.82
Valance closing panel lh £18.90
Valance closing panel rh £18.90
Rear floor complete £360
Rear arch lh £98.93
Rear arch rh £98.93
Full lh Flitch mk2 no vent £192
Full rh flitch 69 on £177.08
Rear lower quarter repair panels £12
Rear bin lower repair panels £32.40
Rear arch to floor stiffeners £19.20
Rear dry subframe £240
Less 10% tmf discount
Total £2366.57
That's some list ? wishing on some presents from loved ones now.
Edited by blacktulip, 04 June 2019 - 04:05 PM.
#45
Posted 01 February 2020 - 10:59 AM
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