39 replies to this topic

[johnR]

My engine was sat in my garage for quite a while I re-built the car - on our first long trip the temp went up to the hot on long inclines. When I got back I flushed the whole cooling system through and found there had been a build up of rusty gunk (enough to block the heater pipes). Once this was washed out I've had no more problems.

[DEPS]

Hi

Reading this with interest as I have a similar problem. Runs above the N, and very quickly climbs the minute it sits at lights and then reluctant to drop back.

 

Car was parked up for years and no work done on engine, so could sludge in the system be an issue? What is easiest/best way to flush?

 

Car was tuned and runs well (1275 with stage 1) so confident that timing and fuelling is correct.

 

New hoses and new minispares rad. Can not remember the detail, but is a high performance one, also had a new high capacity water pump.

 

I had some issues with the fan cowling and brackets when I was rebuilding and had to buy new ones and the fan was sitting away from the cowling. I have added a fan spacer but it still sits on the edge of the cowling and I can't remember how it used to look?! Does this look correct? 

 

 

 

 

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[myminipickup]

My engine was sat in my garage for quite a while I re-built the car - on our first long trip the temp went up to the hot on long inclines. When I got back I flushed the whole cooling system through and found there had been a build up of rusty gunk (enough to block the heater pipes). Once this was washed out I've had no more problems.

 

what did you use to flush the system?

[johnR]

I made up an adaptor to connect a garden hose to replace the top hose to the rad and gave it full blast for a few minutes until it ran clear.

I suppose you could run central heating cleaner in the system for a bit?

[DEPS]

I made up an adaptor to connect a garden hose to replace the top hose to the rad and gave it full blast for a few minutes until it ran clear.

I suppose you could run central heating cleaner in the system for a bit?

 

So if I have interpreted this correctly:

 

Remove top hose from radiator

 

Connect hose in some way to inlet of radiator

 

Turn on and wait for clean water to run from disconnected end of top hose.

 

However, thermostat will be closed as water is cold. So apart from the tiny hole in the thermostat there will be no way for the water to escape????

[johnR]

Good point - I can't remember what I did about the thermostat - must have removed it I suppose?

[cooperd70]

DEPS,

In answer to your picture query my fan also sticks out of the cowling a little. Mine is a 1990 998 and I've been advised that it is correct for an A+ from that period. Some who own older models will have fans that are more inside the cowling, closer to the rad, which is also correct. I was thinking that adding an extra spacer to move the fan into the cowling a little would make sense as long as the blades did not touch the rad fins, but was advised to leave it as is. I also thought that making some form of enclosure to seal the rad to the wing will have also made sense as far as airflow were concerned (similar to original minis which was dropped in later models). Mine runs like yours, sat in traffic too long and the needle climbs high. Went to Italy last summer so had a brand new 2 core rad, engine flush, new coolant, new thermo and it still did the same. Had the needle right up at the top of red at times, but it never actually boiled over/steam from.the bonnet. So wondering if it's just gauge inaccuracy. Funnily have just purchased a Fluke 62 Max to see what the temp is in both top and lower rad hoses once up to temp to see if it is indeed an inaccurate guage.

A side Q for all. Which direction does the air flow through the rad? I assume engine bay - fan - rad - out through the vents on inner wing?!?

[DEPS]

A quick update.

 

So at the weekend parked car on road to save the wife from shouting at me for making a mess on the drive

 

Undid bottom hose at rad end and the water that ran out was very rusty in colour.

 

Removed top hose at rad end. Fortunately I have a long hose pipe with adjustable spray. Set to a narrow pattern and fired into Rad inlet. Flushed through until water ran clear.

 

Then removed hose from heater valve where it comes off the head and again applied the hose. This flushed the heater and was done until the water ran clear from Rad bottom hose which was still disconnected. What I did notice was that water would run clear and then if I stopped the hose and waited a few seconds and then ran the hose again more rusty water would be expelled. So did this a few times.

 

I then reconnected everything and filled up with water and ran up to temperature and then another 5-10 minutes without the Rad cap to make sure no air locks. Interestingly. it never went above the "N" with the Rad cap off...? I then let it cool a little, put some heavy duty rubber gauntlets on (bit of Health & Safety!!) and removed the bottom hose again. I did this as I was aware that none of my flushing would have particularly flushed the block. Water that came out of Rad was still tinged with rust, but much much better.

 

Refitted bottom hose again and refilled with water and ran back up to temperature as before. Been driving it to work since and seems much better .

 

One schoolboy error though......I only had antifreeze for our modern cars.......so will have to drop the water again  

 

Thanks to all

 

A side Q for all. Which direction does the air flow through the rad? I assume engine bay - fan - rad - out through the vents on inner wing?!? You are correct! 

 

[cooperd70]

DEPS,

Glad you got it sorted. Gave mine a run out the weekend. Behaved itself all run. Only ever went above N when sat in traffic at lights and then it wasn't by much. Haven't tested the temp at top/bottom hoses yet. Have now got the infra temp monitor so will check on next run. Does anyone know what sort of range I should expect to see at both the top hose and bottom hose?

[Alpenflitzer]

 

 

 

so what temp is it getting to?

never had issues with thermostats and Mini ones should have a small hole at the side with a wiggly thing in it.

I shows on the gauge up toward the H - between N and H but nearer the H - but then I turn off the engine as I don't want it to really over heat

If the engine tends to overheat never never turn it off! Give the engine a minute to run idle and then turn off.

He says it starts to overheat at idle. With your advice what would you do then?.

 

Sorry for answering so late. Had a tremendous bug in my computer system which destroyed everything.

I think it was bad service to the mini.

Edited by Alpenflitzer, 25 August 2018 - 09:45 AM.