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Classic Mini Electronic Upgrades.


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#1 enneaitch

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Posted 05 June 2018 - 01:21 PM

Were Restoring a classic and were at the stage of wiring, Id like to make some subtle upgrades to make the interior a little nice to live with.

 

Im hoping to add:

 

12v USB in the front. 

AUX IN

Under Dash Lighting

Rear Passenger bins with usb ports in either side. (kids with tablets)

Additional speakers in door pockets and on rear parcel shelf.

 

Has anyone any advice on doing this? has anyone done similar and what else have folk added. It would be great to see similar ideas to help with inspiration

 

Also, would a simple battery upgrade be enough to cope with this? I had hoped modernise the interior a little with some touches lights etc



#2 nicklouse

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Posted 05 June 2018 - 01:51 PM

would not bother with speakers in the doors.

 

get component speakers and put the tweeters up the A pillar and the rest under the dash.



#3 enneaitch

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Posted 05 June 2018 - 02:05 PM

Hi Nick, I only say door pockets because i have a set of Metro Vandenplas door pockets with electric window switches and 10cm speaker pods. So i was going to utilise them.



#4 nicklouse

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Posted 05 June 2018 - 02:10 PM

still would not bother with door speakers as they are in the wrong place but again if you go component and still put the tweeter on the a pillar and the rest in to door that will be good.



#5 lawrence

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Posted 05 June 2018 - 02:10 PM

Wiring would be simple. It's all 12v. Run a power supply from the ig1 or ig2 to a relay as to not overpower the system.

Have you don't any bits with automotive wiring at all before?

Battery would cope fine, it'll all be low amp.

#6 enneaitch

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Posted 05 June 2018 - 02:19 PM

Awesome! thanks. Yeah i have a guy who can do it. he will be wiring it in etc... we are upgrading the fuse box to a blade fuse with extra spaces too for extras etc.



#7 lawrence

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Posted 05 June 2018 - 03:10 PM

You'll be fine then. Run high output USB ports to charge stuff like tablets etc.

If your upgrading the electrical system it would be worth changing the wiring for the headlights to relays to run halogens safely. Also put some waterproof connectors on to save hassle in the future and you can always modify the earths to earth back to the cabin to avoid engine bay deteriation

If you want to go the whole hog car builder solutions do a 12 circuit wiring module which is a great start to a custom loom.

Car builder solutions and vehicle wiring products are both great websites for electrics.

#8 enneaitch

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Posted 05 June 2018 - 03:29 PM

Lawrence funny you should say about the earthing... 

 

I recently found a japanese article from a mini owner over there who ran a seperate earth cable from the battery to the front... would you have any idea why they would do this.. and if known would there be any benefit.



#9 Richie83

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Posted 05 June 2018 - 06:38 PM

I’ve got door speakers and they sound pretty good. They are components though. I did consider under dash but didn’t want it to take up space.

#10 lawrence

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Posted 05 June 2018 - 11:20 PM

No idea for the earthing cable, did they have some fancy sound system? I have a feeling they can be sensitive to voltage spikes etc, maybe it was to eliminate potential areas to have poor electrical conductivity like the engine earth areas or the boot captive nut.

#11 Alice Dooper

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Posted 06 June 2018 - 11:01 AM

I’ve got door speakers and they sound pretty good. They are components though. I did consider under dash but didn’t want it to take up space.


I did the same. Metro ones, vinyl paint, wee bit of dynamat inside, component speakers and didn’t have to damage the door card with new screw holes etc...

Acceptable sound and a very inconspicuous.

#12 dyshipfakta

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Posted 06 June 2018 - 07:20 PM

Make sure your man knows what he is doing when selecting the ratings for the blade fuses when swapping from glass. The ratings are not the same ie a 10amp glass is not the same as a 10 amp blade.
All very easy to do even with existing fuse box wired by Wilson even does a blade fuse kit that is plug and play. (Keep meaning to get one myself)

#13 minifreek1

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Posted 07 June 2018 - 07:32 AM

If you have the Metro door pods, Id also look into upgrading the speakers that are installed for more modern speakers but to be honest they won't produce a lot of bass but will give front end fill, especially if using components with the tweeter mounted high up/bottom of A pillar...



#14 Homersimpson

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Posted 07 July 2018 - 06:51 PM

Make sure your man knows what he is doing when selecting the ratings for the blade fuses when swapping from glass. The ratings are not the same ie a 10amp glass is not the same as a 10 amp blade.
All very easy to do even with existing fuse box wired by Wilson even does a blade fuse kit that is plug and play. (Keep meaning to get one myself)

Could you elaborate on this, surely a fuse rated at 10A is the same whatever its for?  The blowing characteristics might change on overload but fuses are never selected for overload only for short circuit.



#15 lawrence

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Posted 07 July 2018 - 11:55 PM

Old mini style fuses blow at their stated rating on that rating.

Blade ones are designed to run at that rating and spike over it for short periods of time

For example I can run the mini heater on a 3amp fuse but with a multimeter I will see a spike to say 4.2amps at startup and a running amp of 2.7.

For a glass type you would need a 5amp because of the voltage spike.




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