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#1 blacktulip

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Posted 06 June 2018 - 01:48 PM

Hi, where is a good place to start regarding welding panels? Is it best to start on the floors first? Just planning what I'm going to do.

#2 sonikk4

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Posted 06 June 2018 - 01:50 PM

What panels are you intending to replace??



#3 nicklouse

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Posted 06 June 2018 - 01:51 PM

the first place is to weld stiffeners in to good metal so you can remove the rot. then it depends on what you have to replace.

 

got any images.



#4 blacktulip

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Posted 06 June 2018 - 03:09 PM

No images yet but I need to do both floor halves, both heelboard repairs, both inner and outer sills, boot floor, both rear arches, scuttle corners, both flitch panels and front end.

#5 nicklouse

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Posted 06 June 2018 - 03:21 PM

I would just buy a full floor with heal board.  brace up the upper half and slice it off. way way easier and may even cost a little less.



#6 sonikk4

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Posted 06 June 2018 - 03:29 PM

Quite a shopping list. I'm with Nick with regards to the complete floor, less hassle in the long run.

 

Scuttle corners?? i would change the whole thing, scuttle corners are notorious for poor fitting.

 

So first thing is brace the shell, make sure its sitting level on the floor first. Do not be tempted to cut out the boot floor and the main floor together, no reference points for the rear subframe then. Now personally i would make up a jig for the rear subframe mounts. I did this for my car. Makes aligning things a lot easier and means the subbie will fit.

 

Now remove the main floor. Don't be tempted to cutout the rear seat seat pan. This will help with the floor alignment especially the the heelboard end. Do remove the companion bins, it will make your life easier to get to the awkward spot welds where the inner sill meets the heelboard.



#7 DeadSquare

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Posted 06 June 2018 - 04:28 PM

No images yet but I need to do both floor halves, both heelboard repairs, both inner and outer sills, boot floor, both rear arches, scuttle corners, both flitch panels and front end.

 

 

Is the roof good?

 

Lol.



#8 blacktulip

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Posted 06 June 2018 - 05:11 PM


No images yet but I need to do both floor halves, both heelboard repairs, both inner and outer sills, boot floor, both rear arches, scuttle corners, both flitch panels and front end.



Is the roof good?

Lol.
The roof is good, as is the rear and rear quarters of the car. Just the underside and front that needs work. I'll be proud once it's done.

#9 blacktulip

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Posted 06 June 2018 - 06:30 PM

Quite a shopping list. I'm with Nick with regards to the complete floor, less hassle in the long run.

Scuttle corners?? i would change the whole thing, scuttle corners are notorious for poor fitting.

So first thing is brace the shell, make sure its sitting level on the floor first. Do not be tempted to cut out the boot floor and the main floor together, no reference points for the rear subframe then. Now personally i would make up a jig for the rear subframe mounts. I did this for my car. Makes aligning things a lot easier and means the subbie will fit.

Now remove the main floor. Don't be tempted to cutout the rear seat seat pan. This will help with the floor alignment especially the the heelboard end. Do remove the companion bins, it will make your life easier to get to the awkward spot welds where the inner sill meets the heelboard.

Thsnks for the info, the drivers side trumpet has broken and the drivers side rear radius arm has come away so that side of the car in really low. Should I just get the shell up in the air on some wood on the underside to get it level before bracing?

#10 sonikk4

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Posted 06 June 2018 - 07:08 PM

 

Quite a shopping list. I'm with Nick with regards to the complete floor, less hassle in the long run.

Scuttle corners?? i would change the whole thing, scuttle corners are notorious for poor fitting.

So first thing is brace the shell, make sure its sitting level on the floor first. Do not be tempted to cut out the boot floor and the main floor together, no reference points for the rear subframe then. Now personally i would make up a jig for the rear subframe mounts. I did this for my car. Makes aligning things a lot easier and means the subbie will fit.

Now remove the main floor. Don't be tempted to cutout the rear seat seat pan. This will help with the floor alignment especially the the heelboard end. Do remove the companion bins, it will make your life easier to get to the awkward spot welds where the inner sill meets the heelboard.

Thsnks for the info, the drivers side trumpet has broken and the drivers side rear radius arm has come away so that side of the car in really low. Should I just get the shell up in the air on some wood on the underside to get it level before bracing?

 

 

That should do the trick, i normally put a plank under the heelboard supported by axle stands then right at the front where the toeboard wraps around the floor. Then subbies off, doors off, add bracing to inside of the car across the inside of the door aperture both sides, then from B pillar to B pillar and A pillar to A pillar. Tie that all together. Then add another section directly over the cross member and add some drop downs to contact the cross member. you can a couple of diagonal pieces as well to really stiffen it all up.



#11 Daz1968

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Posted 06 June 2018 - 07:24 PM

I did a full floor, complete with heel board, crossmember, outer sills and jacking points from m machine, by far the easiest way to repair a mini, I set car level braced as mentioned above, then just cut the main floor out complete with lower half of bins. I then jacked it into position, fitted the bare rear subframe, checked a few measurements and spot welded it in where I had access and plugged to other areas. Did doorsteps next followed by rear lower panel. Then removed the boot floor complete and fitted new one again using subframe and checked with tape measure. Again spot welding wherever I could. At least then I had a straight shell to work with.

#12 blacktulip

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Posted 06 June 2018 - 08:00 PM

Thanks for the great advice guys. I'm hoping to get it up in the air this weekend.

#13 blacktulip

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Posted 08 June 2018 - 10:04 AM

Am I ok to cut the front end off before bracing the inside?

#14 sonikk4

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Posted 08 June 2018 - 11:25 AM

Am I ok to cut the front end off before bracing the inside?

 

Yes if by front end you mean Front panel, wings and A panels. The scuttle can come off as well. Be wary about replacing full inner wings etc without bracing. You should be ok. 



#15 blacktulip

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Posted 08 June 2018 - 12:22 PM


Am I ok to cut the front end off before bracing the inside?


Yes if by front end you mean Front panel, wings and A panels. The scuttle can come off as well. Be wary about replacing full inner wings etc without bracing. You should be ok.
will I be able to remove the inners up to the bulkhead line?




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