24 replies to this topic

[BingoBongo]

I know this might be asking to have your cake and eat it but my (new to me) mini goes around corners like it is on rails. Stagerring how well it does. However, normal driving, even small bumps on the road, at speed, you can almost bang your head on the roof the way it jumps up.

 

What should i be investigating / checking to see why it drives like this?
 

[ings]

New original cones can make a huge difference. Dont lower it, and switch to 10" wheels...

But a Mini has always a hard suspension setup, this is a part of the funn.

[SolarB]

Ings is correct, the rubber springs compress and harden with age. A new set front and rear will make the suspension as compliant as it ever will be, which is to say fairly bouncy. Also, shock absorbers need to be chacked.

 

As for wheel size, 10" wheels give the greatest compliance as they have the highest side walls of the 10, 12 and 13" options.

[BingoBongo]

I am sure it currently has 12" wheels. I like the look of the bigger diameter wheels and also if I go to 10" I think I will have to change the brakes to accommodate the smaller wheels.

 

I will also look at the cones. Is it a big job to change cones?

[BingoBongo]

 

As for wheel size, 10" wheels give the greatest compliance as they have the highest side walls of the 10, 12 and 13" options.

 

as it happens, I was going to ask if there is an 11" wheel option as a sort of "inbetween" but looking at that, guess not.

[SolarB]

Front springs require a custom tool (spring compressor). It's certainly a DIY job.

Rear springs are easy to change and do not require any special tools.

 

Yes, 10" wheels will need the front brakes changed.

[EasterBern]

Just changing the rubber cones made a huge difference on mine. I also changed the shocks while I was there. I've got 12" wheels. The old cones were about 1/2 the size of the new ones!

 

If I were you I'd try the cones first before thinking about changing the wheels.

 

Might be worth looking at hi-los or similar at the same time, as I think it makes putting it all back together easier!

[Biggles1957]

HYDROLASTIC!

[Boycie]

As has been said, if the front rubber springs haven't been renewed with quality parts in the last few years, they'll be totally worn out. When this happens, the upper suspension arm sits against the bump stop, removing all (or most) of the travel. This makes the car virtually undriveable in my opinion, ridiculously bumpy and borderline uncontrollable on a bad road.
The 1984 onwards cars are even worse because the rubber springs were 'softer' from new (hence they sag quicker) and the 12" tyres give less sidewall movement compared to the 145/10s.

[Spider]

HYDROLASTIC!

 

I agree, but not a viable option these days !!

 

Fitting new rubber cones will transform the car.

[Ethel]

It may well be the cones, if it is it'll corner even better than it does now once you've replaced them. Cornering on rough surfaces tends to show it up more as the tyres lose contact with the road between the bumps more easily making the car skip sideways and the steering go light.

 

Don't be relying on your Min for transport if you tackle it yourself. It's not a complicated job, but you have aluminium trumpets fitting with steel at both ends and that's a recipe for corrosion making it hard to get the bits apart.

 

Biggles has a good point, but not really a cost effective solution.

[leyland73]

Anyone used a smootharide set up from Alex Moulton?

[Biggles1957]

Only joking - because I have an Elf....

 

Ahhh...the smell of leather, the glint of walnut, the smooth yet exciting ride!  Like a tiny mobile drawing room!    

[paulrockliffe]

Rear springs are easy to change and do not require any special tools.

 

I needed an angle grinder to do mine!

 

The other thing to consider is your shocks, consensus seems to be that KYB Gas-Adjusts are about the best you can get for the road.

[Cooperman]

Whatever you do it will never drive like a modern car over bumps. It is, quite simply, a part of the basic 60-year-old design.

However, the way to keep the bumpiness to a minimum is to use top quality as-original rubber spring cones, make sure the ride height is as original, or even slightly higher, and don't set the dampers too hard (if they are adjustable). 10" wheels do make a big difference as the higher aspect ratio of the tyres gives more suspension compliance.

 

With the suspension settings accurate in terms of toe-out (on the front), camber, toe-in (on the rear) and all suspension bushes in good condition, the road-holding will be fine for all types of road driving as will the handling.

 

There are no 11" wheels