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Oil Light At Tick-Over When Stinking Hot


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#1 Cater_Racer

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Posted 09 June 2018 - 02:01 PM

Hi, my 1293cc is going great, but when it's really hot I get the oil warning light flickering and the guage telling me about 15psi.

 

Is it rebuild time? or just new Millers CTV 20/50 and crossed fingers?

 

 



#2 Bat

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Posted 09 June 2018 - 02:54 PM

Hi,

Nothing to loose with an oil change. Check the pressure relief valve while you're there. 

Get an oil temperature guage fitted to monitor temps?

Cheers  :proud:



#3 carbon

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Posted 09 June 2018 - 03:39 PM

Hi, my 1293cc is going great, but when it's really hot I get the oil warning light flickering and the guage telling me about 15psi.

 

Is it rebuild time? or just new Millers CTV 20/50 and crossed fingers?

What oil pressure are you getting at 2,000 and 3,000 rpm when engine is really hot?



#4 Cater_Racer

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Posted 09 June 2018 - 04:58 PM

 

Hi, my 1293cc is going great, but when it's really hot I get the oil warning light flickering and the guage telling me about 15psi.

 

Is it rebuild time? or just new Millers CTV 20/50 and crossed fingers?

What oil pressure are you getting at 2,000 and 3,000 rpm when engine is really hot?

 

50 psi



#5 1984mini25

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Posted 09 June 2018 - 05:02 PM

 

 

Hi, my 1293cc is going great, but when it's really hot I get the oil warning light flickering and the guage telling me about 15psi.

 

Is it rebuild time? or just new Millers CTV 20/50 and crossed fingers?

What oil pressure are you getting at 2,000 and 3,000 rpm when engine is really hot?

 

50 psi

 

Well the pumps working, but the low idle oil pressure only really means one thing, bottom end rebuild time....



#6 GraemeC

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Posted 10 June 2018 - 07:25 AM

I’ve found Millers CTV did this in my rally car when I’ve done a long special test that has primarily been in 1st gear - ie prolonged high revs with little speed to get air through the cooler. Went away as soon as a high speed, low rev run was done.
I’ve put it down to temp instability of the oil when pushed hard and I don’t use it anymore.

#7 Cater_Racer

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Posted 10 June 2018 - 08:53 AM

I’ve found Millers CTV did this in my rally car when I’ve done a long special test that has primarily been in 1st gear - ie prolonged high revs with little speed to get air through the cooler. Went away as soon as a high speed, low rev run was done.
I’ve put it down to temp instability of the oil when pushed hard and I don’t use it anymore.

 

Hi Graeme that's excatly the circumstances I have been experiancing, it was on a longish special stage all in first and second gear.

 

What alternative oils are there? 



#8 GraemeC

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Posted 10 June 2018 - 10:21 AM

Vavloline VR1 seems popular, but I've not tried it.

 

I'll probably get hung out to dry, but I use good old Castrol R - none of the modern additives but it worked back in the day and, for me, it still does now. 

It still suffers a little bit of thinning with high temps, but nowhere near as bad.  But you have to use it from a fresh build - you can't just swap over.



#9 MIGLIACARS

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Posted 12 June 2018 - 06:46 PM

I used to use the vr1 it was better than most and cheap enough. I did change it after every event a must in a competition car.

 

Used to use the castrol r  seemed good to but not easy to lay your hands on in an emergency at an event!!



#10 Cooperman

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Posted 12 June 2018 - 06:52 PM

I do like the Valvoline VR1 and it works well in rxtreme competition conditions.

#11 Cater_Racer

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Posted 13 June 2018 - 03:09 PM

I do like the Valvoline VR1 and it works well in rxtreme competition conditions.

Thanks Peter, I've just changed the oil and filter, draining the oil cooler as well, and refilled with VR1 seems back to normal.

 

I suspect some castrol 20/50 had found its way in during a top-up.

 

Gerry



#12 Cooperman

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Posted 13 June 2018 - 06:25 PM

The very best oil I have ever used was Kendall 20w50, but it is hard to find these days. It is blended from Pennsylvania crude oil which is the best.
VR1 is good though and easy to find on the shelf.




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