Thanks Carlos,
Nope, not the relay, I switched them all around. I also tested it with a 9v battery and it clicks to open perfectly.
This is driving me crazy!!
I do have local garages, but really want to do this one myself
Posted 16 June 2018 - 08:34 PM
Thanks Carlos,
Nope, not the relay, I switched them all around. I also tested it with a 9v battery and it clicks to open perfectly.
This is driving me crazy!!
I do have local garages, but really want to do this one myself
Posted 16 June 2018 - 08:57 PM
Have you tested the fan by connecting the wires together on the temp sensor. I have an spi which has the sensor in the bottom of the rad at the front, not sure where it is on the mpi.
If the fan runs with wires shorted then it is the sensor faulty or an air lock in the system.
That was number 5 - bridge with a split pin. It didn't work.
Haynes manual section 12.43 diagram 25 shows the wiring diagram for all injection models. There are two fuses to check numbered 93 and 94. 93 supplies 12v to the coil ofthe relay. The other side of the coil goes to the temperature switch then to earth. 94 supplies the relay switch contact. When the relay is energised by the temperature switch closing the contacts on the relay close and provide a supply to the fan motor.
Hi Milton,
I can now see thats in my Haynes, but I can't work out which fuses are 93 and 94. The fuse box on the mpi only holds 24 fuses.
I cant see any other reference on the Hayes manual to their location.
Posted 16 June 2018 - 09:23 PM
Just read the engine management wiring diagram - actually understood it!
The two fuses are B9 15a which is in the fuse box under the steering wheel, and slot 1 30a fuse which is in the engine compartment fuser box. checked both boxes and they seem fine.
So not s fuse, relay, fan or rad. There is voltage in the loom that connects to the temperature sensor in the thermostat housing. Thats really the only thing left replace (I think)
Posted 17 June 2018 - 08:37 AM
Posted 17 June 2018 - 10:25 AM
Hi,
Thing to keep in mind with the mpi is the fan is controlled by the injection ecu.
It uses the one and only temp sensor on the engine measures the temperature and switches on the relay which the powers the fan.
Much the same as the temperature gauge is connected to the ECU and not the temperature sensor.
Cheers
Posted 19 June 2018 - 08:31 PM
Hi all,
So im still battling on!
My new temp sensor arrived today, so I've just fitted it. As good measure I also replaced the thermostat as it was only £5. The original sensor did look messy, but the thermostat looked ok. The previous owner did say Croydon Mini's had relaxed it, but if they did they didn't remove all of the previous gasket, which was a bit of a mess. Go I gave it a good clean up and replaced the gaskets.
This has made no difference at all.
The reason I haven't done much with the power side is purely as im not very good in that area and this is the first time I have done anything like this before.
I do however have a meter, not that I ever normally use it. I checked the connector to the fan - no rust or visual damage, and no voltage.
The next thing along is the big green fuses. Didn't try for a reading here, but visually there are no breakages in the fuses.
Followed the loom back to the relay which I have already swapped over and tested with a 9v battery. I removed the relay and checked the connector. Green/black wires have no voltage, but one of the purple wires was up to 17v with the engine running.
As I mentioned before, im new to all of this, so not really sure where to go from here.
Posted 19 June 2018 - 10:56 PM
Edited by Wiggy, 19 June 2018 - 11:10 PM.
Posted 19 June 2018 - 11:12 PM
Posted 20 June 2018 - 10:29 AM
Hi,
Right let's break this down to power system and control system.
First remove the fan relay and bridge the pins in the socket, with a piece of wire between the purple and the black/green, these will be opposite each other.
If the power system is ok the fan will run.
Let us know how you get on...
Cheers
Posted 20 June 2018 - 07:00 PM
IMG_1871.jpg 43.23K 2 downloads IMG_1872.jpg 39.98K 3 downloads IMG_1875.jpg 38.65K 2 downloads IMG_1876.jpg 47.55K 0 downloads IMG_1877.jpg 38.86K 0 downloadsHi all,
So im still battling on!
My new temp sensor arrived today, so I've just fitted it. As good measure I also replaced the thermostat as it was only £5. The original sensor did look messy, but the thermostat looked ok. The previous owner did say Croydon Mini's had relaxed it, but if they did they didn't remove all of the previous gasket, which was a bit of a mess. Go I gave it a good clean up and replaced the gaskets.
This has made no difference at all.
The reason I haven't done much with the power side is purely as im not very good in that area and this is the first time I have done anything like this before.
I do however have a meter, not that I ever normally use it. I checked the connector to the fan - no rust or visual damage, and no voltage.
The next thing along is the big green fuses. Didn't try for a reading here, but visually there are no breakages in the fuses.
Followed the loom back to the relay which I have already swapped over and tested with a 9v battery. I removed the relay and checked the connector. Green/black wires have no voltage, but one of the purple wires was up to 17v with the engine running.
As I mentioned before, im new to all of this, so not really sure where to go from here.
Thanks guys, this is getting interesting now!
So I removed the relay and bridged as you said. Got a meter of 17.46 with the engine running. Tried with and without sensor installed - no change.
Stuck the meter in the 30a fuse that is also used for the fan (According to the Haynes manual) and I got 17.69 with the engine running.
As I had to cut the connector of the new fan (Mini spares spacial supplied with wrong plug), I cut the connector on the other side just encase there was an issue with the connector. Still nothing.
So power is getting as far as the 30a fuse, but the wires to the fan are dead!
Edited by M700FGT, 20 June 2018 - 07:04 PM.
Posted 20 June 2018 - 09:43 PM
Posted 20 June 2018 - 10:53 PM
We're trying to help you systematicialy, but you're ploughing on rather haphazardly. I'm sorry, but take a step back for a second.
Ignore the fuses. They're before the relay.
By the look of it, you've bridged the wrong pins on the relay.
Bridge a Purple wire (preferably pin 30; is may say on the relay) to pin 87 Black/Green wire. Your currently bridging to light green/black.
This should then feed power to the fan connector. Check the continuity between these two points. If its open circuit, there's the problem.
Also you should not have 17V. It's too high. Like I said, check across the battery with the engine running. If you get 17V there (you probably will), you have an alternator problem, and you'll blow something if you keep running it.
Posted 20 June 2018 - 10:59 PM
Posted 20 June 2018 - 11:05 PM
Hi,
Right so you had the fan running that's one part out of the way.
Next get a marker pen and write the letter F on the fan relay and pull it out and put it to one side.
Next get another yellow relay from somewhere else under the bonnet. If you can find the horn relay put the fan relay in there and press the horn to test the fan relay. If not just stick the relay in the fan socket and see if the fan runs when the engine gets hot.
Again let us know how you get on...
By the way I'm assuming your temp gauge works ok?
Cheers
PS I think your multimeter is wildly inaccurate, try a new battery in it, failing that a new meter!
Edited by Bat, 20 June 2018 - 11:07 PM.
Posted 21 June 2018 - 09:52 AM
I do genuinely appreciate the help and I am trying to follow instructions and advice as best I can while still being a novice. But hey, we all have to start somewhere.
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users