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Voltage Stabilizer Help Needed


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#1 Mini-Mouse

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Posted 20 June 2018 - 02:10 PM

I've been told that the voltage stabilizer was iffy as my temperature gauge reads stone cold all the time and the fuel gauge will only reach half way on a full tank, even after replacing both senders. I grounded the wires going to both senders and both gauges reached the top. 

 

I purchased the voltage stabilizer from Minispares (BMK1539A) and removed my gauges only to find that there is no stabilizer to replace! After a quick search I found the following thread: http://www.theminifo...age-regulator/, which explains how to wire in a chip bought from Maplin to acheive the same effect. Trouble is: Maplin is no more and I don't know enough about electronics to be able to find an alternative chip. 

 

Could someone point me to an equivalent chip or would I be able to wire the voltage stabilizer I bought to it instead? 

 

My cluster is exactly the same as the one in the above thread, in a Mini Thirty. 

 

Thanks in advance.



#2 Bat

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Posted 20 June 2018 - 03:00 PM

Hi,

10volt 1amp regulator according to the link...

Search eBay gives

 

https://rover.ebay.c...tm/401475261081

 

 

Just Google the data sheet for it and that will tell you how to wire it up.

Cheers  :proud:


Edited by Bat, 20 June 2018 - 03:02 PM.


#3 Moke Spider

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Posted 20 June 2018 - 06:28 PM

As well as the Regulator, you should also fit a couple of small Capacitors to them too.

 

to be honest, for the 'fuss' of making these, the replacement Stabalisers are not expensive.



#4 Aaron3

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Posted 20 June 2018 - 08:04 PM

https://rover.ebay.c...tm/380747658712

I used this one, pre wired and comes with wiring instructions.

Edited by Aaron3, 20 June 2018 - 08:11 PM.


#5 Mini-Mouse

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Posted 20 June 2018 - 09:37 PM

https://rover.ebay.c...tm/380747658712

I used this one, pre wired and comes with wiring instructions.

I like the look of this. Where abouts did you bolt it to the metal bodywork? I don't really want to go drilling if I can help it.



#6 Mini-Mouse

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Posted 20 June 2018 - 09:46 PM

Also, why does the thread I referred to mention blocking a contact point. Does this have something to do with making the current flow through the fitted stabiliser? 



#7 Aaron3

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Posted 21 June 2018 - 07:10 AM

I mounted it under the lower dash rail, I’ve a custom dash so wanted easy access to it without taking the dash out. I’m not sure what he means about blocking the contact points his explanation is quite vague

Edited by Aaron3, 21 June 2018 - 07:10 AM.


#8 JonC

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Posted 10 July 2018 - 10:25 PM

Also, why does the thread I referred to mention blocking a contact point. Does this have something to do with making the current flow through the fitted stabiliser?


I assume it's to stop the original regulator functioning completely so the new one takes over.

#9 MK1russ

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Posted 11 July 2018 - 12:02 AM

I recently suffered a similar problem, the temp guage was reading hot and fuel gauge over reading.

 

I fitted this:

 

https://www.ebay.co....qsAAOxyY9VRJc8K

 

Dead easy to wire up, comes with instructions and now both gauges are reading correctly.



#10 Icey

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Posted 11 July 2018 - 12:09 PM

The 'solid state' kits are just an LM series voltage regulator (I can't remember if it's a 78 or 79 type), but either way it's a few pence worth of parts. I have them in my electronics kit but I'd still stick with a standard regulator, it's not worth the faff of building it!



#11 Moke Spider

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Posted 11 July 2018 - 07:01 PM

The 'solid state' kits are just an LM series voltage regulator (I can't remember if it's a 78 or 79 type), but either way it's a few pence worth of parts. I have them in my electronics kit but I'd still stick with a standard regulator, it's not worth the faff of building it!

 

LM7810 would be it ;D - though, being 10 volt, they are a little odd ball and few suppliers stock them. 5, 9 and 15 volt types are very common.

 

RS and Farnell would be probably the best places to try, though, I agree that off the shelf replacements are none too expensive, neat and ready to fit.



#12 noeman

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Posted 06 January 2019 - 08:40 AM

I would prefer a 'off the shelf' stabilizer, but I didn't think  you could get them for the Nippon gauges ? As they are built in.  Or are you referring to the pre-made ones on Ebay?

 

I wish my gauges was the older smiths ones where its easy just to unplug and plug in a new stabler.


Edited by noeman, 06 January 2019 - 08:45 AM.


#13 Moke Spider

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Posted 06 January 2019 - 09:30 AM

There's a bit of current  info here too;-

 

http://www.theminifo...r/#entry3576145



#14 noeman

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Posted 18 January 2019 - 09:01 AM

Just an update and question. I fitted a lm7810 chip to my Nippon gauges as per the other thread instructions. Also used thermo paste and screwed it to the bulkhead for heat purposes. My gauges was working perfect for the 1st few days.
Now they have stopped working all together. So I've taken the dash off again, tested the chip and only getting 4.9v on the output side instead of the previous 10v.
The gauges are not getting enough power I guess that's why they've stopped working. But have my chip gone bad only after a few days?

Cheers

#15 Moke Spider

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Posted 18 January 2019 - 09:14 AM

Hmm,,, there is something odd there.

 

Each Gauge consumes a maximum of around 200 miilamps. Even without a heatsink, these Regulators are usually good for around 500 - 600 miliamps.

 

Given that your previous Regulator died and now this one, I just wonder if there's something up with one of your gauges or possibly the printed circuit?






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