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#16 Bat

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Posted 24 June 2018 - 05:23 PM

Hi,

At this point it won't hurt to try it. I've just noticed in the manual there's a retune procedure for when you fit a new ECU, I don't know if you want to try that to see if it kicks it into action?

Cheers  :proud:



#17 pete l

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Posted 25 June 2018 - 07:41 AM

Morning all.

 

I removed the minispares lambda and put the original back in. The volts went from a fixed 1.94v to 1.98 fluctuating from 1.97 to 1.99 engine off. I have not yet run the engine as i had a coolant leak but will do soon.

 

I have doubts about the minispares lambda. I was told to only buy genuine BOSCH, not after market junk.



#18 Alice Dooper

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Posted 25 June 2018 - 04:34 PM

I’m having the same problem.

I’ve swapped out the Lambda sensor and the coolant sensor. Gave all the plugs on the other sensors a good clean and did the earths too. The heater relay appears to be fine and I’ve checked the continuity on all the relevant wires.

At a loss.....

#19 pete l

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Posted 25 June 2018 - 04:43 PM

Explain your problem in details.

#20 Sprocket

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Posted 25 June 2018 - 04:56 PM

Have you carried out the tests I suggest in this pinned topic?

http://www.theminifo...-oxygen-sensor/

What these tests determine is whether the sensor responds at all, in your case because the voltage is stuck high, you would gently pinch the fuel supply line ( short duration only) until you hear the tone of the engine change or it stumbles before it stalls, while at the same time watching the voltage reading however you wish to read it, either by volt meter or diagnostic.

If when you carry out this test you see the voltage change towards anywhere down to 0.2volts, the sensor is working, and if you’re using the diagnostic to read the bolts, proves the electronic circuit in the ECU is good too. That then means there is another problem with the system causing a rich condition and it’s not because of the sensor.

On the other hand, if you still get no response from the sensor, it’s one of three things, the sensor it’s self, the wiring and connectors, or the ECU it’s self..

From memory with the Crypton ACT, the lambda sensor voltage reading was about 400mv or 0.4v with the sensor disconnected. With a sensor connected and the sensor out of the exhaust (body of the sensor must be grounded to the engine) it read 200mv. If it wasn’t grounded, again it read 400mv. All these tests were done with the engine running. What this also does is allow you to ‘feel’ if the sensor is heating up, be careful though as it will leave a nasty mark if you are not careful, they can get up to 500 degrees C.

Hope that gives you some more to think about.

Edited by Sprocket, 25 June 2018 - 04:59 PM.


#21 pete l

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Posted 25 June 2018 - 06:01 PM

Thanks sprocket. I'll let you know how it all goes at the weekend.




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