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Mini Engine Conversion


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#1 Charliehelms

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Posted 23 June 2018 - 04:36 PM

Hello. New to the forum and mini ownership. Currently in the process of stripping my mini to be restored. It has a 998 engine but am looking at 1275’s. is there a good place for off the shelf conversions? Thanks

#2 Spider

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Posted 23 June 2018 - 07:45 PM

I don't know if anyone would actually offer these as a 'kit' or the like as the swap is relatively straight forward, there are no custom or 'special' parts needed. If you buy a complete 1275 engine, with the gearbox & distributor fitted, then you only need swap the needle in your carburetor and possibly fit a new exhaust system.

 

If you are a little handy with spanners, no reason why you couldn't do it yourself, if you've not worked on Minis before, you could do this swap over a weekend.



#3 WillCarter

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Posted 23 June 2018 - 08:51 PM

I don't know if anyone would actually offer these as a 'kit' or the like as the swap is relatively straight forward, there are no custom or 'special' parts needed. If you buy a complete 1275 engine, with the gearbox & distributor fitted, then you only need swap the needle in your carburetor and possibly fit a new exhaust system.
 
If you are a little handy with spanners, no reason why you couldn't do it yourself, if you've not worked on Minis before, you could do this swap over a weekend.


Mini spares and mini sport do engines. eBay or someone on here would also be a good bet, although eBay might be a bit risky.

Try Jonspeed too, they do half engine kits.

#4 cal844

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Posted 23 June 2018 - 09:26 PM

Would never trust an eBay seller, always buy from a trusted company.

#5 Retroman

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Posted 23 June 2018 - 09:51 PM

Welcome to TMF

Not sure what Mini you have but you need disc brakes before fitting a 1275 lump

 

The 998 is a very underated and tunable engine, they are a nice revvy engine and more bomb proof than a 1275

 

If you are bit adventurous with a 998 80 hp is possible for the road on a single 1 1/2inch carb, twice the power of standard and plenty of fun.

 

You already have the base unit so why not stick with it...probably cheaper insurance too.

 

Ebay is far from the best place, unless the engine is stripped and it can be inspected

 

http://www.theminifo...f-ebay-engines/

 

I have just finished a full rebuild on the one in the ebay link (started and ran it on the engine stand today)

I am sorting another in a 67 Cooper S that has a big money engine...turns out it has second hand pistons and a head ported by a six year old with a Marina TC distributor, and Sprite carbs !!

Doing a rebuild on a 3 synchro gearbox for 66 Cooper from Cumbria next week.

 

Whilst the MS short engine is good by the time you pay for delivery and cough up another £500 quid its not cheap, you would also need a head and push rods.

 

I am only 3 miles from Mini Sport, cheaper and more diligent

 

Things to say but not on here, PM or ring me

 

http://www.retromini...main_page=index

 

L4shV6i.jpg



#6 cal844

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Posted 23 June 2018 - 09:57 PM

That bay looks stunning ?

#7 Retroman

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Posted 23 June 2018 - 10:54 PM

Thanks Cal, it was start up day for a 66 S that was the French Portugese Ambassadors car, all documented number correct....and was driven straight from Paris to me, the steering was on the wrong side too.

Before....

JAOCvMEl.jpg

 

    When it came it was in a bad state with an engine knock...someone had nicked the EN40B crank and put a metro crank in...they had built the thrust bearings up with solder !! so the crank was trying to escape, so was a gudgeon pin, scoring a bore, but cleaned up with the rebore. The head bolt (behind the thermostat was about 10mm diameter with a rough square head, so that had to be stitched back to 5/16th UNC.

PLXLzIgl.jpg

lxDtrH4l.jpg

 

Had to liner cylinder 1 as a water pump bolt hole went through on reboring

I had forgotten...the brake pipe out of the servo was also soldered up too !!!

    A full new loom and a full rebuild on all the running gear, was needed, its still on Hydrolastic, and having been in a good climate only has a thumb nail spot of rust one one unit, amazing. Its a very original car with all dated Lucas parts, even has a rear subframe embossed MOWOG which is very rare and probably the original.

   We went with a Speedwell theme as it came with a Speedwell dash, I sourced original Speedwell rev, oil and water temp. Went with a Longman head, rimflow valves, VP3 scatter cam and Vizarded H4 carbs, 3.76 diff and a light clutch setup...its fantastic to drive and will even show up modern machinery like BM's and Mercs, about 110 horses make it real fun.

   I have a really good testimonial from the owner, I think he prefers it to his Ferrari, even with the plastic arches (came that way).

wsdaZPDl.jpg



#8 Charliehelms

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Posted 24 June 2018 - 07:15 AM

Thanks for the replys people. I already have discs on the car which is helpful. Trying to find a good engine on ebay is a bit risky so thought it might just be easier to buy one done. Was in 2 minds whether to just have the one ive got rebuilt but reading a lot of things people say the 1275 is beter so trying to gauge what direction to go

#9 Bat

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Posted 24 June 2018 - 07:34 AM

Hi,

The only way I can think a 1275 is better than a 998 is with the increased capacity you can use a wilder cam.

If you're bolting in a standard engine then a 1275 is better than a standard 998.

If you're modifying and not going for big horsepower then either should give you plenty of enjoyment.

Cheers  :proud:



#10 DomCr250

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Posted 24 June 2018 - 09:55 AM

Thanks for the replys people. I already have discs on the car which is helpful. Trying to find a good engine on ebay is a bit risky so thought it might just be easier to buy one done. Was in 2 minds whether to just have the one ive got rebuilt but reading a lot of things people say the 1275 is beter so trying to gauge what direction to go

Over the years I've had 1275's and 998's - the 998's with a slightly better head (Skimmed 12G295 if you can afford it or a 12G940) and a stage 1 kit are almost as much fun, you will get close to the standard 1275 HP figures and it's a great revvy little engine.  

 

The plus point on the 998's is that they dont seem to have been driven as hard, so your rebuild costs could be minimal.

 

Also, you can pick 998's up for next to nothing, £100 should get you a decent engine and box, so if you need a replacement down the line it's cheap and simple.



#11 cal844

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Posted 24 June 2018 - 12:55 PM

Regardless of engine, use a 1990 onwards front subframe it allows you more bulkhead to carb clearance

Edited by cal844, 24 June 2018 - 12:55 PM.


#12 Retroman

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Posted 24 June 2018 - 02:40 PM

Hi,

The only way I can think a 1275 is better than a 998 is with the increased capacity you can use a wilder cam.

If you're bolting in a standard engine then a 1275 is better than a standard 998.

If you're modifying and not going for big horsepower then either should give you plenty of enjoyment.

Cheers  :proud:

   I don't disagree, but you can still use a wild cam in a 998, if you want, not that its needed or advised by me.

 

The works cars used a 649 cam in 998's.

 

I have used a 296 in a 999cc S, which would beat almost anything in sight, sheer joy once an cam at 3500ish

 

Petrol Pete on here is going with a VP3C for the road, which should be a serious small bore motor, not massively wild but good power and fun.



#13 Bat

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Posted 24 June 2018 - 04:20 PM

Hi,

Yeah should have worded that better. What I meant was the bigger capacity reduces the cammy effect, ie comes on cam quicker.

Cheers  :proud:



#14 Chris.Williams

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Posted 24 June 2018 - 06:09 PM

One thing I’ll share about either way you decide to go, be it 998 or 1275.....don’t cut corners.
Your build is only as strong as it’s weakest link, and a mini will test that link, trust me.
Both engines are fun, also a 1098 with a 12G940 head is a blast, torque for Africa!
Never trust what you find on eBay, go with a well know company or build it yourself.
Good luck either way and don’t be afraid to ask even the simplest of questions, people here are knowledgeable and very happy to help.

#15 Charliehelms

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Posted 24 June 2018 - 06:48 PM

One thing I’ll share about either way you decide to go, be it 998 or 1275.....don’t cut corners.
Your build is only as strong as it’s weakest link, and a mini will test that link, trust me.
Both engines are fun, also a 1098 with a 12G940 head is a blast, torque for Africa!
Never trust what you find on eBay, go with a well know company or build it yourself.
Good luck either way and don’t be afraid to ask even the simplest of questions, people here are knowledgeable and very happy to help.


Nice one. Thank you mate. Just trying to work out the best options. Dont want to have to remove it again once its gone back in

Edited by Charliehelms, 24 June 2018 - 06:48 PM.





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