Thanks, I won’t be ordering anything until it’s stripped. I was looking at the spits, wanted one when I did my Escort a few years ago but space was an issue. My garage is quite wide but very short. Don’t suppose you know approx how much longer than the car they are do you?! CheersDo not consider a whole floor replacement until you have stripped the car first.
One, it’s bloody expensive especially if you cannot do it yourself. Two,it may not need it. Yes it’s all done in one go that I can agree with but it’s a very big job.
Get a spit as this will help considerably with the resto. Then once you have cleaned the underside of the car up you will see what needs to be done.
The Not What I Was Expecting 1998 Cooper
#16
Posted 28 June 2018 - 08:19 PM
#17
Posted 28 June 2018 - 08:52 PM
Thanks, I won’t be ordering anything until it’s stripped. I was looking at the spits, wanted one when I did my Escort a few years ago but space was an issue. My garage is quite wide but very short. Don’t suppose you know approx how much longer than the car they are do you?! CheersDo not consider a whole floor replacement until you have stripped the car first.
One, it’s bloody expensive especially if you cannot do it yourself. Two,it may not need it. Yes it’s all done in one go that I can agree with but it’s a very big job.
Get a spit as this will help considerably with the resto. Then once you have cleaned the underside of the car up you will see what needs to be done.
Unfortunately not. I do own one (well its my sons) and i modified the feet by cutting off the excess to be able to close a standard length garage door. A few mods but its still very stable and i have used it on another two cars as well. The big thing at the mo is i have dismantled it for storage purposes.
A standard length garage should be more than long enough, i had to get past the front as it was my main access in and out hence why i trimmed a small amount off the feet.
You can see the spit in Project Erm and Project Paddy in my signature.
#18
Posted 28 June 2018 - 09:09 PM
Ok cheers I’ll look into it when I need to. Unfortunately my garage isn’t a regular single, it’s much wider and a good bit shorter! The photo of the Mini in the garage with the bike it’s about 10mm of the wall?
Thanks, I won’t be ordering anything until it’s stripped. I was looking at the spits, wanted one when I did my Escort a few years ago but space was an issue. My garage is quite wide but very short. Don’t suppose you know approx how much longer than the car they are do you?! CheersDo not consider a whole floor replacement until you have stripped the car first.
One, it’s bloody expensive especially if you cannot do it yourself. Two,it may not need it. Yes it’s all done in one go that I can agree with but it’s a very big job.
Get a spit as this will help considerably with the resto. Then once you have cleaned the underside of the car up you will see what needs to be done.
Unfortunately not. I do own one (well its my sons) and i modified the feet by cutting off the excess to be able to close a standard length garage door. A few mods but its still very stable and i have used it on another two cars as well. The big thing at the mo is i have dismantled it for storage purposes.
A standard length garage should be more than long enough, i had to get past the front as it was my main access in and out hence why i trimmed a small amount off the feet.
You can see the spit in Project Erm and Project Paddy in my signature.
#19
Posted 29 June 2018 - 09:00 AM
A spit / turnover jig will be about 14 to 18 inches longer at each end so you need a minimum of 13 feet, obviously the more the better as you have to work and move round it.
You may be able to chop the legs shorter and brace it a t floor level end to end which might shorten it by a couple of feet.
Google Mini turn over jig loads of info
#20
Posted 29 June 2018 - 03:11 PM
There are jigs that roll the car that bolt onto the hubs. May not be perfect, but might suit your situation better. Frost do a version for the VW camper, I'm sure there will be others out there doing the same thing though.
https://www.frost.co...oll-a-vw-camper
#21
Posted 29 June 2018 - 08:56 PM
It will be bad 90's onwards are total rot boxes.
The newest are the worst of the lot!
Will need them oversills cutting off you'll have a rusty mess underneath them.
Heal board will probably need doing. Flitch. Total front end. Valances. scuttle etc etc.
£1000's without labour & time.
Edited by miniQ, 29 June 2018 - 09:00 PM.
#22
Posted 29 June 2018 - 08:59 PM
A few pounds cheaper at CJ Autos
http://www.cjautoshe...ascroller.shtml
But not much good if you need to remove the sub frames
#23
Posted 30 June 2018 - 06:47 AM
That is a cracking looking car and defo savable there is far worse on here being restored, It has a great story and history so deserved to be saved that's for sure.
#24
Posted 01 July 2018 - 03:00 PM
So I had a couple of hours earlier so pulled the seats and carpets out. Won’t be able to see the state of the sills until I get the oversills off but to be honest I was expecting worse. Front floors at the corners are a mess, rear corners are gone as are the wheel tubs at the top. On the plus side the bulkhead looks perfect, most of the floor looks decent, the crossmember is good. Excuse the poor quality pics, it was either dark garage or blinding sunlight!
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Also had a better look in the boot. Everything behind the battery box is toast. The spare wheel well is actually solid, it has surface rust but doesn’t feel thin anywhere and the from the rear of the battery forward is solid.
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Just waiting on a spot weld drill bit and I’ll whip the front wings off next. If it wasn’t such an original car I’d normally just be plating and patching the holes but want this doing right. I figure since the car didn’t cost me anything I don’t mind chucking some cash at it for the work I’m not happy to attempt myself. Any input welcomed!?
#25
Posted 01 July 2018 - 03:16 PM
#26
Posted 01 July 2018 - 08:32 PM
A few pounds cheaper at CJ Autos
http://www.cjautoshe...ascroller.shtml
But not much good if you need to remove the sub frames
I had one of these without the optional turn over/winder, I used it on my MK2 Jag and the thing was a bloody death trap.
Got rid of it and bought a proper rotissery type, possibly ok for a Mini but I wouldn't bother.
#27
Posted 03 July 2018 - 05:06 PM
Hello
I am in the "before-buying-a-mini" state :) There is a '92 Cooper for sale, similar condition as Innzy's car, I'm thinking about to buy it.
I know that later models and rust is good friends.
But what if it repaired by an expert with a good underbody and cavity protection ? Will it rust again in some years or it will be a long lasting car ?
#28
Posted 15 July 2018 - 06:30 PM
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The only really bad bit is the o/s bit under the scuttle panel and it’s crept into the inner wing top:
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Rest of the inner wings look solid to me, will need cleaning up and some minor repairs but could have been a lot worse!
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The scuttle itself is solid but as I’m going to have to remove it to repair underneath I guess it would make sense to replace with a whole new panel? I’m still not 100% on how to proceed and what to attempt myself and what to ship out. I know the best thing would be to strip it to a bare shell etc but I’m tempted to just start at the front and work my way backwards?
#29
Posted 15 July 2018 - 06:48 PM
get a new heritage scuttle, wings and front panel. Expensive yes, but will fit better.
You will 100% have a big hole underneath those front shock mounts which will require both plates to be fixed.
Q
#30
Posted 15 July 2018 - 07:19 PM
get a new heritage scuttle, wings and front panel. Expensive yes, but will fit better.
You will 100% have a big hole underneath those front shock mounts which will require both plates to be fixed.
Q
Yeah I thought those shock mounts might be hiding something?. I’m defo going to use heritage panels, is there anywhere recommended to order from or all they all much of a muchness? I noticed if I join tmf+ get 5% off at minispares which could be a decent saving after a year or 2!
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