17 replies to this topic

[pinkmini99]

Hi folk how would be best to fit one? Would I need to keep the closure panels?

Thanks in advance

[Retroman]

They really need closure panels right across as it does cause drag.

 

An alloy skin is easiest, can all be drilled / screwed or riveted on.

[pinkmini99]

They really need closure panels right across as it does cause drag.

An alloy skin is easiest, can all be drilled / screwed or riveted on.

So a panel across the whole valance?

I was thinking of having holes in the valance.

[Retroman]

You could have holes, that will reduce the drag.

 

The most effective would be an alloy skin each side from the valance right under the subframe to the rear floor, like a belly pan.

 

works well with a centre exhaust, the difference is worth 3 or 4 MPH on a long straight

 

[Dusky]

Afaik just holes work as an airbrake (vizard had an article about this).
Could always bond fibreglass.

[nicklouse]

You could have holes, that will reduce the drag.

 

The most effective would be an alloy skin each side from the valance right under the subframe to the rear floor, like a belly pan.

 

works well with a centre exhaust, the difference is worth 3 or 4 MPH on a long straight

 

ahhh

[Ethel]

As above, polyester resin will bond pretty well to steel. If it's a road car some MoT testers may insist on the closing panels being present - within a foot of the rear subby mountings. they could even get sniffy about the valance, but they can't tell if there's anything under it.

[pinkmini99]

Afaik just holes work as an airbrake (vizard had an article about this).
Could always bond fibreglass.

????

[Dusky]

Afaik just holes work as an airbrake (vizard had an article about this).
Could always bond fibreglass.

????

"I was thinking about having holes in the valance"

[Retroman]

Not seen anything from DV on the holes, I know he was one who belly-panned the back subframe.

 

You could alloy skin a vertical 'inner' and still have the holes on the outer at the back, best of both

 

Even a strip of alloy from the bottom of the valence to the bottom of the subframe rail (assuming you have one)

 

Would be worth doing....add a bit of strength and aero too

[nicklouse]

Not seen anything from DV on the holes, I know he was one who belly-panned the back subframe.

 

You could alloy skin a vertical 'inner' and still have the holes on the outer at the back, best of both

 

Even a strip of alloy from the bottom of the valence to the bottom of the subframe rail (assuming you have one)

 

Would be worth doing....add a bit of strength and aero too

I have read about how holes in the rear valance has Zero effect. this may have been Visard or Staniforth. but it was a long time ago.

[Retroman]

Allan was more of a suspension guy I don't recall him doing anything with a Mini...

 

I have 3 of his books, will look, be interesting to know

[nicklouse]

Allan was more of a suspension guy I don't recall him doing anything with a Mini...

 

I have 3 of his books, will look, be interesting to know

I have spent many an Hour in Allans company. either at Harewood or at his discussing suspension. in fact I have still not finished what I was last discussing with him back in 99-2000. just a shame I will not be able to inform him of the results.

[Dusky]

Not seen anything from DV on the holes, I know he was one who belly-panned the back subframe.

You could alloy skin a vertical 'inner' and still have the holes on the outer at the back, best of both

Even a strip of alloy from the bottom of the valence to the bottom of the subframe rail (assuming you have one)

Would be worth doing....add a bit of strength and aero too

I have read about how holes in the rear valance has Zero effect. this may have been Visard or Staniforth. but it was a long time ago.

[pinkmini99]

So what I get from this is bound it on.

Blank the whole of the inside off and make some kind of floor extension.

With all this done could holes in the valance still act as a air brake ?