7 replies to this topic

[Mayhem030]

Hi all

I recently got myself an unleaded cylinder head which I presume came from a metro as it has no bypass to the water pump and there is also no pre drilled heater valve holes whatsoever. I would still like control of the heat in the car so can I run the heater valve pipe with an inline heater valve TX1 and connect it to the bypass on the water pump or would I need to connect it elsewhere? I hope this makes sense.

Thanks all

[nicklouse]

drill out the take off on the head and tap the water pump for a grub screw to seal it or change the pump to one without a bypass.

[Bat]

Hi,

I'd use the SPI thermostat sandwich housing and hoses, that should sort both out at the same time. Either blank the water pump stub off or just change the pump for one without.

Cheers 

[Mayhem030]

Thanks guys was intending to plug the water pump bypass but wondered if I could connect the heater hose to it rather than drill the head. Just wondered if this would work before I drill as would save me some time.

Cheers

[Mayhem030]

Thanks Bat just looked at the sandwich plate and hoses and now see what you mean. Will do that. Thanks.

[Bat]

Hi,

Remember the thermostat sits in the top of the sandwich housing and not in the cylinder head!

Cheers 

Edited by Bat, 17 July 2018 - 10:24 AM.

[Retroman]

If you do use the sandwich section consider stainless bolts.

 

http://www.retromini...roducts_id=1073

 

Steel ones in that situation are particularly vulnerable to seizing in the alloy,

 

not sure why but the standard housing is much less of an issue

[bae1994]

If you do use the sandwich section consider stainless bolts.
 
http://www.retromini...roducts_id=1073
 
Steel ones in that situation are particularly vulnerable to seizing in the alloy,
 
not sure why but the standard housing is much less of an issue

+1 on this, I had to drill mine out when I got mine, swapped with stainless and had no issue since