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Anyone Done A Fibreglass Mini Build


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#1 Mini_Mad_Manx_Man

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Posted 16 July 2018 - 06:58 PM

Looking for advice on mounting at stress points on a fibreglass shell. Or anything anyone can tell me to watch out for. Can't find anything online 



#2 WillCarter

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Posted 16 July 2018 - 07:51 PM

http://www.theminifo...-pros-and-cons/

 

Will this be for road use or racing? Either way I'd imagine that a spaceframe or at least a roll cage would be needed, plus engine bay strengthening. I would also imagine that the car may have to be registered as a kit car but I could be wrong about that. 



#3 Mini_Mad_Manx_Man

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Posted 16 July 2018 - 08:12 PM

Hi It will be used for road use, and I will not be using a space frame. It's an FRA shell so everything should just go on but I lined the front subframe and it just seems weak. I'd like to reinforce it with steel plate and more fibreglass but can't find anyone who has wrote about what they did online. Don't worry about the test. This is the only topic that I can find online well searching lol. I live in the Isle Of Man and have been down to our local test centre and they said as long as I bring the old long book and the VIN plate is in the right place they will pass it. They said its no different to panel replacement lol 



#4 mm man

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Posted 16 July 2018 - 08:36 PM

This is on the forum and is a fibreglass shell .
I have two of theses myself and have just added steel plates or large penny washers to spread the loads


http://www.theminifo...t-begins-minus/

#5 Mini_Mad_Manx_Man

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Posted 16 July 2018 - 08:54 PM

This is on the forum and is a fibreglass shell .
I have two of theses myself and have just added steel plates or large penny washers to spread the loads


http://www.theminifo...t-begins-minus/

Life saver, exactly what i'm looking for. I can't seem to open the pictures tho. Did you strengthen your tower bolt holes? if so how? And what thickness metal. Just had a quick look at tread so if its all in there then ace jack pot. Thanks again. 



#6 mm man

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Posted 17 July 2018 - 12:43 PM

Some of the early photos may not open due to the photobucket mess up !!
With ref to my tower bolts on the inside of my bulk head I fitted 2 flat plates around 2mm thick top and bottom to spread the load and then a metal tube in between them to stop them from crushing . So like a capital ( I ) hope you know what I mean . Then on the outside again I just fitted a flat plate shaped to the cross member to help spread the load . If I have some photos I will upload the later .

#7 Ethel

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Posted 17 July 2018 - 05:01 PM

The spacer tube is needed on a steel car too.

#8 Mini_Mad_Manx_Man

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Posted 17 July 2018 - 10:30 PM

Some of the early photos may not open due to the photobucket mess up !!
With ref to my tower bolts on the inside of my bulk head I fitted 2 flat plates around 2mm thick top and bottom to spread the load and then a metal tube in between them to stop them from crushing . So like a capital ( I ) hope you know what I mean . Then on the outside again I just fitted a flat plate shaped to the cross member to help spread the load . If I have some photos I will upload the later .

I've messaged the guy who's topic it is and asked him for the pictures. Yes I get what you mean, good idea that thanks. They don't tell you all this when you get a fibreglass shell. I just thought everything would just bolt on but it all has to be drilled and strengthened. The people who make them should do a build guided and sell the strengthening parts required ready. If I'd pay £4.500 for this shell and found this out I'd be pretty mad lol. Thanks pal any pictures would be a great help.



#9 nicklouse

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 08:53 AM

http://www.theminifo...ect-fibreglass/



#10 mm man

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 10:10 AM

Some of the early photos may not open due to the photobucket mess up !!
With ref to my tower bolts on the inside of my bulk head I fitted 2 flat plates around 2mm thick top and bottom to spread the load and then a metal tube in between them to stop them from crushing . So like a capital ( I ) hope you know what I mean . Then on the outside again I just fitted a flat plate shaped to the cross member to help spread the load . If I have some photos I will upload the later .

I've messaged the guy who's topic it is and asked him for the pictures. Yes I get what you mean, good idea that thanks. They don't tell you all this when you get a fibreglass shell. I just thought everything would just bolt on but it all has to be drilled and strengthened. The people who make them should do a build guided and sell the strengthening parts required ready. If I'd pay £4.500 for this shell and found this out I'd be pretty mad lol. Thanks pal any pictures would be a great help.

I will get you a couple of images next week when I go to my work shop as I can’t find any clear ones at the moment .
I did see your other posts inc pictures of your shell imo there’s been a lot cut out of it so you will need to replace the missing parts and strengthen were you can .

#11 Ethel

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 10:12 AM

 

Some of the early photos may not open due to the photobucket mess up !!
With ref to my tower bolts on the inside of my bulk head I fitted 2 flat plates around 2mm thick top and bottom to spread the load and then a metal tube in between them to stop them from crushing . So like a capital ( I ) hope you know what I mean . Then on the outside again I just fitted a flat plate shaped to the cross member to help spread the load . If I have some photos I will upload the later .

I've messaged the guy who's topic it is and asked him for the pictures. Yes I get what you mean, good idea that thanks. They don't tell you all this when you get a fibreglass shell. I just thought everything would just bolt on but it all has to be drilled and strengthened. The people who make them should do a build guided and sell the strengthening parts required ready. If I'd pay £4.500 for this shell and found this out I'd be pretty mad lol. Thanks pal any pictures would be a great help.

 

Every shell will be built up differently, but they could make it clearer perhaps. I guess that's where places like TMF come in. 

 

GRP is stronger than you might think, you can cut threads directly in to it. Though generally using a penny washer where you'd use a flat washer is good practice, as long as the fastener torques up without visible sinking or cracking around it.

 

 

Good call Nick,

 

I forgot about the Pheonix and Pimlico for my list, probably two of the better engineered kitcars. Google just told me BMW make a Bini Pimlico, have they breached someone else's intellectual property rights - the irony if they have  :P






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