17 replies to this topic

[WillCarter]

I know there are a lot of topics about turbo builds but I can't seem to find a list of parts needed. 

 

So far I've only got a 1275 A+ block and an HIF44 carb. 

 

I'll probably be getting a GT1752 turbo and a fusion fabs turbo kit

 

I know I need a cross pin diff

 

Do I need a turbo inlet manifold?

 

Do I need to rebuild the carb using a turbo carb repair kit?

 

What do I need to do about the air filter?

 

Do I need an intercooler?

 

What cylinder head and pistons would you recommend?

 

Do I need a different set of gears?

 

What else have I forgotten to ask?

 

Thanks for answering any of these questions, I really don't know much about turbo charging yet so I haven't decided on whether or not I'll got through with it. 

 

Cheers! 

 

Will

 

 

 

 

[hazpalmer14]

No other inlets may fit, but you'd have to check because some catch on the manifold.

Yes because the carb needs to be sealed for boost.

Air filter normally attaches to a piece of pipe coming off the turbo.

No you don't need an intercooler but it would be best practice if you did. It's not the icing on the cake it's more cake! And means you can run more boost and keep intake charge temps down.

Pistons the cast omegas are more then up to the job.

How much power do you want? Helical is ok up to 150hp helical drops can take more. Most people fit the sc cr clubman gear set and sc drops.

A decent head will help to make more power. But need to work out what size chambers you'd need to get the right compression ratio

[WillCarter]

No other inlets may fit, but you'd have to check because some catch on the manifold.

Yes because the carb needs to be sealed for boost.

Air filter normally attaches to a piece of pipe coming off the turbo.

No you don't need an intercooler but it would be best practice if you did. It's not the icing on the cake it's more cake! And means you can run more boost and keep intake charge temps down.

Pistons the cast omegas are more then up to the job.

How much power do you want? Helical is ok up to 150hp helical drops can take more. Most people fit the sc cr clubman gear set and sc drops.

A decent head will help to make more power. But need to work out what size chambers you'd need to get the right compression ratio

Thank you! Massive help!

[hazpalmer14]

If you search on turbominis forum you can find tons and tons of information on there!

[Retroman]

If its for the road don't use SC drop gears they are horrendously noisy, you need a helmet or ear-plugs or both !!

 

MPi type drop gears are said to be the best.

 

The flywheel housing on Turbo engines has a bigger pilot bearing on the end of the 1st motion gear/shaft if you can find a genuine housing its a good upgrade, if not a standard housing can be machined out for the bigger bearing. (same casting)

 

Only use RHP bearings in the gearbox too, anything else is not worth fitting.

 

I can supply pistons more than upto the job considerably cheaper than Omegas

 

You will also need a Turbo oil pump,Turbo type fuel pressure regulator, a high pressure fuel pump, an injection fuel tank (or one with 2 outlets)

 

Standard Turbo heads have an exhaust valve which is sodium filled to help cool the valve (8mm stem)

 

There are a lot of oil related things that can be done to reduce oil drag and heat in the block..most involving drills, files and sweat

 

Head wise Turbo Phil (on here) is the man. The use / engine CC'c / head / valve sizes/ cam / timing / compression should be considered as one.

 

Camshaft is a big consideration, an MG metro type or there abouts is really good for the road

 

Diff ratio is another to consider the turbo had a 3.2 which I would stick to for the road

 

The clutch also need to be at least as good as a standard Turbo depending on what you go for.

Bear in mind at the moment nobody can get uprated pre verto diaphragms

 

A huge amount depends on if you can do things yourself, your budget and what you want to achieve.

 

Give me a ring or PM if you want a chat, I can do better prices than MS Smfrd or Msprt

I can produce you a complete engine / short engine / Kit / gearbox / parts  or what ever you want to do

 

Whatever route you take the engine package has to work in synergy and be considered as a whole (as you probably know)

 

You only need one week link between your right foot and the road and a Turbo will exploit it more than a NA engine. Be careful as there are so many poor components out there.

[hazpalmer14]

My engine Is 1310 using 10cc cast omega pistons.
Standard rods with ARP bolts
Metro turbo crank the more desirable one
Avonbar phase 2 cam, with duplex timing chain
Uprated oil pump
Benross cylinder head can't remember exact spec
Straight cut close ratio clubman box with X pin diff and 2.9 final drive
Jack knight straight cut drops
Fusion fabs manifold and downpipe.
Gt17 turbo
Metro turbo carb and inlet manifold
Malpassi fjel pressure regulator
Nic plenum
Big alloy intercooler
Minispares 2 core rad
Megajolt ingnition

I bought the short engine second hand. The guy had built it to make 200hp and was using a gt20 turbo. If you wanted something tamer then you can tone down the spec and it will save on cost.

[WillCarter]

My engine Is 1310 using 10cc cast omega pistons.
Standard rods with ARP bolts
Metro turbo crank the more desirable one
Avonbar phase 2 cam, with duplex timing chain
Uprated oil pump
Benross cylinder head can't remember exact spec
Straight cut close ratio clubman box with X pin diff and 2.9 final drive
Jack knight straight cut drops
Fusion fabs manifold and downpipe.
Gt17 turbo
Metro turbo carb and inlet manifold
Malpassi fjel pressure regulator
Nic plenum
Big alloy intercooler
Minispares 2 core rad
Megajolt ingnition

I bought the short engine second hand. The guy had built it to make 200hp and was using a gt20 turbo. If you wanted something tamer then you can tone down the spec and it will save on cost.

Thank you! I'm only wanting between 100 and 150bhp and I think I'll keep the bore as 1275. How did you find all the plumbing for the turbo or was that already done on the engine you bought? 

[hazpalmer14]

Oil feed is easy enough I got a hydraulics place to make up a pipe and it bolts onto the front of the block.

Then the gt17 is water cooled so it's taken off the heater outlet on the end of the head, and returned to the bottom house.

[WillCarter]

Oil feed is easy enough I got a hydraulics place to make up a pipe and it bolts onto the front of the block.

Then the gt17 is water cooled so it's taken off the heater outlet on the end of the head, and returned to the bottom house.

Sounds okay then, in theory! Cheers!

[Bat]

Hi,

I think the first thing to do is decide what power/torque output you want and then spec everything to that.

The torque you can get from even a moderate set up can chew up gearboxes and drop gears faster than anything.

The taller you go with final drive ratio and how you drive it, lead foot in 4th is just as bad as booting it in lower gears, will pay a large part in how long it will last.

The other thing is where to put everything under a mini bonnet!

I'd recommend binning the dizzy and going with an ECU controlled coil pack with at least a charge temperature sensor. Also an AFR guage will be cheap insurance against melted pistons...

Cheers 

Edited by Bat, 18 July 2018 - 12:43 PM.

[Bat]

Hi,

Ps, there's nothing to say you cannot turbo a completely standard engine if you control boost, timing and fuelling accurately.

Cheers

[WillCarter]

Hi,
I think the first thing to do is decide what power/torque output you want and then spec everything to that.
The torque you can get from even a moderate set up can chew up gearboxes and drop gears faster than anything.
The taller you go with final drive ratio and how you drive it, lead foot in 4th is just as bad as booting it in lower gears, will pay a large part in how long it will last.
The other thing is where to put everything under a mini bonnet!
I'd recommend binning the dizzy and going with an ECU controlled coil pack with at least a charge temperature sensor. Also an AFR guage will be cheap insurance against melted pistons...
Cheers 

  

Hi,
Ps, there's nothing to say you cannot turbo a completely standard engine if you control boost, timing and fuelling accurately.
Cheers

I'm not after anything with crazy power, anywhere between 100 and 150 would be fine by me!

Is a 5 speed box worth the cost or would a decent 4 speed be enough?

[mini13]

on a turbo I would steer clear of 5 speeds, generally they are weaker as 5th is an add on the other side of the diff,

 as long as you have a bit of mechanical sypathy for <150 hp you can get away with a std box rebuilt on a tall final drive, 3.1 would be a good choice for turbo. that will give you a good cruising speed and not be too tall in first gear.

[WillCarter]

on a turbo I would steer clear of 5 speeds, generally they are weaker as 5th is an add on the other side of the diff,

 as long as you have a bit of mechanical sypathy for <150 hp you can get away with a std box rebuilt on a tall final drive, 3.1 would be a good choice for turbo. that will give you a good cruising speed and not be too tall in first gear.

Thank you!

[Bat]

Hi,

Certainly the Mini Spares 5 speed box states not for turbo use.

If you choose the right ECU you can use it to control the boost as well as the ignition and give the transmission an easier time, much like the metro turbo.

Cheers