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Another Day, Another Rattle...


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#16 Dandyer1995

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 04:21 PM

Early cars had the plate and yours has one....looks a bit home brewed.
 
Try a compression check with it using water it could be a head gasket problem.


I think the head of the bolt is up against the block and that’s what’s kicking the tie out?

I’ve not done a compression test so I’ll have to do a bit of research first. Trying to avoid taking it to a garage for as long as possible

#17 sonikk4

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 05:33 PM

In that case providing the water loss is from something else the. You can pretty much rule out HG failure.

So it’s down to the usual culprits, engine mounts, engine steadies, subframe mounts. Check the bracket the engine steady attaches to as well.

#18 Dandyer1995

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 06:41 PM

In that case providing the water loss is from something else the. You can pretty much rule out HG failure.

So it’s down to the usual culprits, engine mounts, engine steadies, subframe mounts. Check the bracket the engine steady attaches to as well.


Thanks, that’s where I’m gonna start with those and go from there

#19 Homersimpson

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Posted 21 July 2018 - 04:55 PM

I don't like the look of the stabilizer bushes, its at quite an angle and should be a bolt.

 

Be careful not to over tighten it the threads are prone to stripping and tearing out of the block (might be already)

Pound to a penny the bolt into the block for stabiliser has either snapped off in the hole or stripped its thread.

 

An ultimate engine steady is likely to be the best way forward although someone used to do a kit which bolted onto the engine in this location as a repair, not sure if these are still available?



#20 Homersimpson

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Posted 21 July 2018 - 04:56 PM

Like this:

 

https://www.minispar...ic/MSSK003.aspx



#21 Dandyer1995

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Posted 22 July 2018 - 11:29 AM

Like this:
 
https://www.minispar...ic/MSSK003.aspx


That’s a big help thank you, I need to strip it off and have a look

#22 Dandyer1995

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Posted 22 July 2018 - 04:30 PM

Got it off, Homer you was right. Stripped bolt in block so will have to go with that kit rather than the bodge that’s on it.

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#23 Retroman

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Posted 23 July 2018 - 12:44 AM

It needs both holes drilling and tapping out

 

Probably the source of the noise / vibration and has not been doing its job for a while, try driving without

 

You have the thermostat end top stabilizer at least



#24 Dandyer1995

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Posted 31 July 2018 - 08:31 PM

Got the kit will try fitting the weekend

Edited by Dandyer1995, 31 July 2018 - 08:49 PM.


#25 Retroman

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Posted 31 July 2018 - 09:04 PM

Does it have bolts bigger than the normal 5/16th ?

 

I would be wanting something bigger in the 2 existing 'worn' holes



#26 Dandyer1995

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Posted 09 August 2018 - 09:55 AM

It came with new bolts for the bracket and I ordered a new one for the bulkhead side of the tie. I’m not very happy with the bracket. None of the bolts lined up when refitting and this is as close to straight as I can get it.

I think an adjustable tie would help. The engine is solid now and doesn’t move whereas before there was noticeable play in the engine when rocking.

Not driven it since I fitted it as the radiator is out being flushed and I’m waiting for new hoses.

Thanks

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#27 Retroman

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Posted 09 August 2018 - 11:54 AM

Let us all know how it goes



#28 Dandyer1995

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Posted 09 August 2018 - 01:05 PM

Let us all know how it goes


Will do, hopefully get it buttoned up tonight and take it for a drive

#29 Dandyer1995

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Posted 11 August 2018 - 02:01 PM

So I’m re fitting the rad now. Bought a new bottom hose (minispares kevlar one) and a hose reducer bit that goes to the heater. Only issue I’ve got is that I can’t refit the ultimate engine steady as before there was bit of copper pipe between the bottom hose and the heater and now it’s fitted properly there’s not enough room for it to all fit. It’s going to crush the hose.

Long term won’t be an issue as we plan to delete the heater but for now I’m going to have to have just the gearbox side one.

Any thoughts

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