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Cutting Out Issues On 95 Spi


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#16 minimissions

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Posted 02 August 2018 - 12:12 PM

Yes the car does have an immobiliser full factory set up.

I have tried a few different relay boxes to try that theory and she still does the same thing, the only time the car has stayed running is when we ran a wire from the tank to the battery after the car cut out, then she ran again..

 

the temp has been wrong for a little while like months the car has ran fine.. I think the water system could defiantly  do with a flush out which might sort the issue yes.



#17 minimissions

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Posted 02 August 2018 - 12:13 PM

Hi,

I'm a little confused with the part in your first post where you said you bypassed the fuel pump?

If you put a feed directly to the pump and it ran fine then there's nothing wrong with the fuel side it has to be electrical.

Cheers  :proud:

We literally made a wire up from the take plug to the battery and she started again, so my next point of call is looking at the tank wiring maybe?



#18 Bat

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Posted 02 August 2018 - 12:21 PM

Hi,

I'd take a look at the inertia switch and the wiring to the tank.

Depending on how you want to do things you could hook up a temporary 12v led warning lamp to the wire from the ECU to the relay and see if it stays on when it cuts out. Move it round different places to try and trace the fault...?

Cheers  :proud:



#19 minimissions

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Posted 02 August 2018 - 12:26 PM

Thanks defo going to the look at the tank wiring as my next step, and that is a good way of seeing a fault thanks for that.

 

If none of this works November is fast approaching and bonfire needs lighting :lol:



#20 Sprocket

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Posted 02 August 2018 - 04:56 PM

two thirteen way connectors the fuel pump feed passes through before it reaches the rear of the car. The first is on the bulkhead next to the inertia switch in the engine bay. The second is under the dash on the passenger (left) side of the car (right hand drive). check the connections are in good condition, as they carry a good bit of current, and they are not very big. If there is a problem there, you might see some discolouration of the wire, the rubber seal, the terminal pins themselves or the yellow anti back out shields. You should also check the large connector on the relay pack for signs of discolouration on the wires and the white anti back out shield too.



#21 hunterg30

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Posted 03 August 2018 - 12:48 AM

try checking the main connection at the ecu ,unplug it and look for corrosion,or it might just be that it's not be pushed on properly



#22 minimissions

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Posted 03 August 2018 - 09:09 AM

two thirteen way connectors the fuel pump feed passes through before it reaches the rear of the car. The first is on the bulkhead next to the inertia switch in the engine bay. The second is under the dash on the passenger (left) side of the car (right hand drive). check the connections are in good condition, as they carry a good bit of current, and they are not very big. If there is a problem there, you might see some discolouration of the wire, the rubber seal, the terminal pins themselves or the yellow anti back out shields. You should also check the large connector on the relay pack for signs of discolouration on the wires and the white anti back out shield too.

Thanks for that Spocket that is defo some connectors for me to get looking at then, I will get looking I have had the one on the relay on and off a good few times and cant see any issues with those connectors. I will check the others. The wiring on the passenger side? I take it thats on the bulkhead?



#23 minimissions

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Posted 03 August 2018 - 09:10 AM

try checking the main connection at the ecu ,unplug it and look for corrosion,or it might just be that it's not be pushed on properly

Many thanks I will check these to.



#24 minimissions

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Posted 03 August 2018 - 09:12 AM

I tried last night seeing if the inertia switich was an issue yesterday and I can see that itself being at fault the car its self defiantly is sending a signal to shut off fuel, as the switch was popped up when the car cut out, leave the car 5-10 mins she will fire then die again, if you try to start straight away after first cut out she just cranks over and gets no fuel.



#25 Bat

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Posted 04 August 2018 - 10:18 AM

I tried last night seeing if the inertia switich was an issue yesterday and I can see that itself being at fault the car its self defiantly is sending a signal to shut off fuel, as the switch was popped up when the car cut out, leave the car 5-10 mins she will fire then die again, if you try to start straight away after first cut out she just cranks over and gets no fuel.

Hi,

The inertia switch doesn't send a signal anywhere it just cuts the power to the pump.

The relay, switched on by the ecu, provides power to the pump. This cable goes through the C7 fuse, then the inertia switch, then through the multiplugs Sprocket mentioned before eventually ending at the pump.

Cheers  :proud:


Edited by Bat, 04 August 2018 - 10:20 AM.


#26 genpop

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Posted 04 August 2018 - 11:32 AM

Why do you fiddle around everywhere.You told us you have a second tank with fuelpump.Change it. If fuel pumps are worn they soak a lot of electrical power what can leed to your problems.If they soak too much, fuses blow out. When you take the power directly from the battery (what you did) you have the full current and it will work( question is how long?).



#27 minimissions

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Posted 05 August 2018 - 06:39 AM

Why do you fiddle around everywhere.You told us you have a second tank with fuelpump.Change it. If fuel pumps are worn they soak a lot of electrical power what can leed to your problems.If they soak too much, fuses blow out. When you take the power directly from the battery (what you did) you have the full current and it will work( question is how long?).

Because I haven't been able to collect the spare tank yet and its 50 miles from my home. Working 7 days a week doesn't help. It is defiantly something I want to swap to see if the issue goes. Yes literally ran the pump from the battery and the car started.



#28 Bat

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Posted 05 August 2018 - 07:00 AM

Hi,

Unfortunately you've only got a couple of choices.

 

1 .. Change the tank out when you get it, as I said at the start, if you power it directly and it ran fine I don't think that's at fault unless its been blowing fuel pump fuses?

 

2 .. Work through the electrical system and find the fault and hopefully restore the cars reliability.

 

Obviously an intermittent problem is always the hardest and most time consuming to resolve. 

In life it seems your boiler always packs up in the middle of winter and your summer toy always packs up during the good weather!  >_<

Cheers  :proud:


Edited by Bat, 05 August 2018 - 07:01 AM.





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