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Realistic R1 Performance


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#1 Baxter_MFB

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Posted 29 July 2018 - 11:30 AM

Apologies if it's been posted before, have been looking but can't find anything. I'm looking at doing an R1 conversion, probably pro-motive or lynx kit and was just wondering if anyone had any genuine real life performance figures? Anything from 0-60, 0-100, lap times, quarter mile, top speed, anything you've got just to give me an idea and help me decide what route to take. I know pro-motive claim a 0-60 between 4 and 5 seconds but that seems pretty optimistic. Can anyone confirm it?

Thanks in advance, Sam

#2 vx220

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Posted 29 July 2018 - 03:25 PM

There's an old video on YouTube, I'll have a search. Bill Sollis driving, proper timing gear, was quite impressive!

#3 vx220

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Posted 29 July 2018 - 03:31 PM

https://youtu.be/ZQIP5v-knZs

And...

https://youtu.be/C9-9pL_2WO0

#4 duds100

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Posted 03 October 2018 - 04:25 PM

My FWD Pro-motive R1 mini is 570kg with me sat in it and I ran a 13.2sec @104 mph 1/4 mile. This was going over the line at the end of 4th gear (6 speed box).

 

I guesstimate this to a 0-60 time of about 4.8 seconds, and I guess 0-100 mph in around 12 seconds. 

 

On 165/70r10 road legal tyres i've lapped;

 

Castle combe in 1min 22 sec

Mallory Park in 55 sec

Rockingham in 1min 39 sec



#5 roofless

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Posted 17 January 2019 - 10:03 AM

Hi Duds... are you running 5JJ carb engine or 5PW injection ?

Cheers :)

#6 minidave04

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Posted 17 January 2019 - 07:40 PM

He’s running a 5pw

#7 minidave04

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Posted 17 January 2019 - 07:41 PM

I have a 42lb rad cap and I can’t seem to keep the water in it chucks it out all the time and heats to 120 deg anyone had this

#8 minidave04

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Posted 17 January 2019 - 07:42 PM

I have a 42lb rad cap and I can’t seem to keep the water in it chucks it out all the time and heats to 120 deg anyone had this

#9 Gr4h4m

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Posted 18 January 2019 - 07:13 AM

Is the fan cutting in?

#10 minidave04

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Posted 18 January 2019 - 07:54 PM

Yes

#11 minidave04

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Posted 18 January 2019 - 07:55 PM

Took it for 20 min drive today and no water in the rad after that

#12 Gr4h4m

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Posted 19 January 2019 - 08:24 AM

Some simple stuff you can test
Does the cap seal on the rad? What pressure is the cap? Does that match the bike spec?
No holes in the water pipes,
is the stat opening, pull it out and try it in some hot water
Use a block tester to check the head gasket for leaks

What temp does the fan kick in? I know they are high in the stock bike, but then I guess the engine is swinging in the wind

#13 evolone38

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Posted 23 January 2019 - 11:41 PM

I have a 42lb rad cap and I can’t seem to keep the water in it chucks it out all the time and heats to 120 deg anyone had this

Don't use just water, drain it and use Engine Ice. I dropped about 15 deg F real talk if the top when I did... before I was blowing off the 42lb cap. I also added an alloy radiator in line.



#14 duds100

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Posted 24 January 2019 - 06:42 AM

I am indeed running a stock 5PW injection with the Pro-motive supplied airbox & exhaust manifold. I have a PC5 fitted that I had mapped at PDQ which really improved the performance of the motor. 

 

The fan kicks in at 106 degrees C in a 5PW.  Normal running temp should be around 100ish degrees on a bike. I initially used a standard mini rad cap which was to the tas. I now use a stant high pressure 21-25PSI rad cap with lever release which effectively raises the water's vapour point.

 

Are you running an oil cooler? With a 13 row oil cooler and an aluminium side mount radiator I still really struggled to keep mine cool. I ended up adding a second ally coolant radiator just behind the front grille, like evolone, which has worked a treat (33% more core size over just a side mount). Flat out on track during summertime the coolant temp will not go above 103 C no matter how hard I drive it. 

 

I use water with just a small amount of anti-freeze in as water has the higher specific heat capacity. 


Edited by duds100, 24 January 2019 - 06:55 AM.


#15 Gr4h4m

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Posted 24 January 2019 - 09:30 AM

I guess the 106 is based on the bike engine being exposed and efficient cooling/rad. I have a friend that has the same kit and he’s been struggling to keep it cool I guess any pressure reduction in the cooling system and it’s easier to boil over.
We have fitted a fan stat switch so he can adjust the fan cutin, replaced the rad cap, checked for a head gasket failure with a block tester, checked the stat is working and there isn’t any leaks. He is using a standard rad so there is some improvement to be had there and is doesn’t have a heater so we are loosing the ability to use that as a cooling aid. Is a bit Ivey for testing at the mo 😀




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