51 replies to this topic

[JonnyAlpha]

DV's book is obviously the engine bible, but the bigger pistons available now are not listed.

 

plus 0.100 and 68mm [+0.135"] make really big cc on 998 and  a 1098 will go to 1217cc

 

They make really good torquey engines with a decent head and carb

 

Been communicating with Keith Calver ref taking my 998 to 1097. I thought the 1097 needed to have a new crank for the different stroke but apparently not. 

Keith is also a fan of a revvy torquey 998 (1097).

Just looking through the cost - file attached.

 

Comes out at around £1500 for the parts and machining / balancing etc, and that does not include 7.5 Inch Disc conversion and Stage One Kit. Total outlay around £2000 (not including other bits that may be required such as bushes, rubber cones / coil overs and maybe HiLos for the front end).

 

Need to start saving - or sell a kidney!!

Attached Files

•  Screen Shot 2018-09-17 at 10.52.37.png   192.64K   5 downloads

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 17 September 2018 - 09:55 AM.

[Retroman]

Looks like most of its there price wise, you will need gaskets and probaly some primary gear / idler shims, clutch plate

 

Diff wise you can half it or less 2nd hand or use what you have, and rebuild the diff, new shims and pin about 20 quid.

 

I would go 3.67 ratio on any 998 or 1098 cranked motor, its what they were originally designed with before everyone got all paranoid

 

about noise and economy and when its tuned it works even better, as it keeps the engine revs in the optimum working rev range.

[timmy850]

There is a big difference between a 998 bored out and a 1098 engine.

 

998 engine has 76.2mm stroke + 64.58mm bore = 998cc. 

Bore out the 998 +100thou (67.12mm) = 1079cc

 

1098 engine has 83.72mm stroke + 64.58mm bore = 1098cc

 

The 1098 based engine has a much longer stroke (they also use shorter pistons)

[JonnyAlpha]

There is a big difference between a 998 bored out and a 1098 engine.

 

998 engine has 76.2mm stroke + 64.58mm bore = 998cc. 

Bore out the 998 +100thou (67.12mm) = 1079cc

 

1098 engine has 83.72mm stroke + 64.58mm bore = 1098cc

 

The 1098 based engine has a much longer stroke (they also use shorter pistons)

 

Yes agreed - I am looking taking the 998 to 1097 to keep the same crank shaft.

[JonnyAlpha]

Looks like most of its there price wise, you will need gaskets and probaly some primary gear / idler shims, clutch plate

 

Diff wise you can half it or less 2nd hand or use what you have, and rebuild the diff, new shims and pin about 20 quid.

 

I would go 3.67 ratio on any 998 or 1098 cranked motor, its what they were originally designed with before everyone got all paranoid

 

about noise and economy and when its tuned it works even better, as it keeps the engine revs in the optimum working rev range.

 

The more I get into this the more there is to think about, so far I have been advised an FD of 3.44, then 3.1 and now 3.67?

Interestingly though I have a spare 998 A+ sitting in a Metro which, according to the engine number information on Guessworks, has and FD of 3.65.

 

Maybe I could just use that GearBox or the FD unit itself?

Would 1275 parts fit?  

 

[Retroman]

I would go with that ratio,

 

Not sure what you mean re 1275 parts fitting, which parts ?

[JonnyAlpha]

I would go with that ratio,

 

Not sure what you mean re 1275 parts fitting, which parts ?

 

Sorry I meant are the gearboxes interchangeable between 998s and 1275's? Or swap the Final Drive Assembly or just the Crown Wheel and Pinion?

[JonnyAlpha]

Ok so I have been doing the numbers and mulling this over in my head. Main problem I have is the all up cost - and justifying it to her who must be obeyed!!

Anyway I am considering the following plan.

 

Rather than do this all in one go I thought about staggering it out (and with it the costs). I have a couple of 1275's and a 998A+ which I am supposed to be selling to offset the costs of this upgrade. Of the three engines I have removed one of the 1275's (probably already said this in this thread) and was toying with using that instead of the 998 (probably already said that too), but I am a little affixiated with sticking with the 998 and creating a great little all round revvy road car.

 

I am working on some workshop space and if it goes ahead this is what I may do:

 

1. Strip and clean the 1275.

2. Inspect and rebuild - maybe hone or rebore (new pistons and skim head and face of block (but only if it needs it.

3. Remove 998.

4. Fit Disc Brake Conversion.

5. Drop in unmodified 1275 in order to still have a working car.

6. Strip and clean 998.

7. Send Head and Block away for refurb and rebore to 1097.

8. Rebuild Engine to spec above.

9. Remove 1275 and sell.

10 Remove Subframe.

11. Tidy up and paint Engine Bay.

12. Strip / tidy up and paint Subframe.

13. Rebuild Subframe.

14. Re-fit Subframe and 998 Engine.

 

Jobs a goodun - it's so easy on paper

[luismx123]

"...and justifying it to her who must be obeyed!!"

There is a surfboard shop that asks men if they want a wife-receipt. -50% on everything stamped on to keep the happy :)
I'd look into asking your machinist to write you up one too

[JonnyAlpha]

Managed to secure some workshop space today so I will be able to get cracking.

First problem getting the first engine from where it is currently sat on a pallet to the work area which is a bout 3 miles away.

 

I don't have a tow bar or a van. Can't man handle the engine into the back of my Freelander unless I split it into its three component pieces (Head, Block, Gearbox). Doing this though would mean splitting it in situ which is not a clean environment but may have to just to move it.

 

Just to confirm - having watched Bill Solisi's video, to split it I need to take the Flywheel Casing and Flywheel and Clutch off so I can remove the GearBox. Do I also need to take the timing case off? Or just remove the Crank Pulley? 

[Wiggy]

Yeah, you'll have to take the clutch cover, clutch, flywheel, primary gear, idler gear, and the transfer case off, to split the box from the block. The timing cover and crank pulley can be left untouched.

[JonnyAlpha]

Spotted this on a sales site the other week and as it was still for sale I picked this up for £30

 

 

Its rated at 1000KG so will be more than ample. 

Need to make up a bracket to sue it on an A Series Engine though.

[Risky]

 

Sorry I meant are the gearboxes interchangeable between 998s and 1275's? Or swap the Final Drive Assembly or just the Crown Wheel and Pinion?

 

 

If I recall correctly, you can swap the gearboxes as long as they are both A or both A+. You can't interchange an A+ box on an A engine for instance.

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

 

 

Sorry I meant are the gearboxes interchangeable between 998s and 1275's? Or swap the Final Drive Assembly or just the Crown Wheel and Pinion?

 

 

If I recall correctly, you can swap the gearboxes as long as they are both A or both A+. You can't interchange an A+ box on an A engine for instance.

 

I believe you can mix A and A+ engines and gearboxes but the drop gears have to match the gearbox so an A+ gearbox needs A+ drop gears and the clutch housing also needs to match the drop gears.

 

Also the 1275 primary gear is different to the 998 one and has to match the crank you're using.

 

I think that's correct but someone will soon correct me if I'm wrong.

[JonnyAlpha]

Yeah, you'll have to take the clutch cover, clutch, flywheel, primary gear, idler gear, and the transfer case off, to split the box from the block. The timing cover and crank pulley can be left untouched.

 

Managed to split the engine but there are two bolts under the smaller Timing Gear cog that go into the GearBox housing. These had to be removed to split the block from the gearbox. Problem was that as everything else was off I had no way (that I knew of) to lock the CrankShaft so that I could undo the nut holding on the Timing Gear. 

 

Any idea what the proper size socket is for the Timing Gear?

 

Anyway I was able to make enough space behind the lower cog to remove the bolts and split the case so I'll have to deal with the timing gear some other way?