52 replies to this topic

[Its a min]

Each gear would select fine and the gearbox span freely, it was only in neutral when the output was held I felt any drag and only in one direction.

 

Sounds like yours is healthier than mine was when it went in but I fitted all new baulk rings thinking it was just because they were new and would wear in. Once all put together and engine fitted back in the car, gear selection was hit and miss without the engine running.Couldn't push the car in neutral so had to depress the clutch just to move the car. Once I'd moved it, it was lucky dip which gears I could select. It was once I'd fired up and stuck it in first I noticed there was something that didn't seem right and forget reverse, it was like going over multiple speed humps backwards.

 

Hope yours isn't the same.

[Its a min]

Latest update.

 

Put everything together and gears spun freely. Good so far.

 

Drifted in the two end bearings, checked movement and still looking good.

 

Fitted the big 'C' clamp and, although a little tighter, gears still moving with a bit of drag. Gears and layshaft still not lined up at this point but looking a bit better.

 

Got to tightening the two end bolts and...gears not turning by hand . They'll turn with socket and breaker bar but still a lot of resistance. 

 

After a few more , take everything apart again. Baulk ring on 4th gear (? the one nearest flywheel ( I did say I didn't know anything about gears)) is almost stuck so removed it and checked my old baulk rings. Found one which left a gap of approx .0041" so trial fitted this in place of the new one.

 

Refitted everything back and it looks like I'm in business...and the gears now line up with the layshaft.

 

I ordered some used baulk rings from Guessworks last week, just in case, but they haven't arrived yet so will wait and see if any have a greater gap when they do arrive before putting the engine/box back together again.

 

What would you guys say the absolute minimum gap should be?

Edited by Its a min, 27 August 2018 - 12:03 PM.

[Bradchap]

Just as I found, seems that the baulk rings we are getting new are far too variable in terms of dimensions and trueness, at one point I sent all of mine back and went for the "higher quality" more expensive ones but still got a similar result, As I said I ended up using one of my old ones, Maybe I could have used 2 of the old ones to give a bit more play but if your going to use old parts it kind of negates the point of doing the job doesn't it? Maybe I'm missing something, is there any adjustments you can make to account for the larger baulk rings?

[DeadSquare]

In a way, I'm proud to say that I have never fitted new baulk rings in a gear box.

 

For a start, they have to be very worn not to work, but as someone who considers that half the fun of motoring is fettling the "Engine on the Bench" ready to next go in the car, I used to make punch marks all the way round the inside of the ring, until I hit on distorting them in the 3 jaw chuck of a lathe to re vitalise that little bit of 'bite' needed to synchronize the gears.

 

Unlike sex, gears should not be stiff to go in.

[alex-95]

I'm going to be rebuilding my gearbox over winter and have bought new bulk rings, mainly because one had cracked. Has anybody got the original dimensions so that I can check them before they go in? 

[Its a min]

I'm going to be rebuilding my gearbox over winter and have bought new bulk rings, mainly because one had cracked. Has anybody got the original dimensions so that I can check them before they go in? 

 

Hi alex-95.

 

I don't know if the original measurements will help much given there will probably be some wear on the mating surface of the gears.

 

I found swapping the new rings around on different gears made a big difference...just not big enough of a difference on mine. Hence me resorting to trying the least worn two of my old rings.

 

If it will be of use for reference purposes, I can certainly get some comparative dimensions of non-wearing sides between the old and new. My old rings were the original factory fitted ones and the new ones were boxed 'Rover original's'.

[Spider]

What would you guys say the absolute minimum gap should be?

 

The Factory Wear Limit is 0.025".

 

When they get down around 0.030 - ish, I replace them.

 

When new, while I haven't measured them, they would easily be around 0.040" or more.

[Its a min]

 

What would you guys say the absolute minimum gap should be?

 

The Factory Wear Limit is 0.025".

 

When they get down around 0.030 - ish, I replace them.

 

When new, while I haven't measured them, they would easily be around 0.040" or more.

 

 

Thanks Moke Spider.

 

In which case...I think I'm sorted and good to go. ...hopefully!