15 replies to this topic

[[email protected]]

Hey all,

 

I'm going to work on my rear brake shoes & drums soon and seeing as how the Brake Adjuster "Screws" are probably the factory originals, I thought I would replace them with new ones too.

 

Because the exposed portion of the brake adjuster threads are ridiculously rusty, I thought I should clear the threads with a die before trying to screw them completely out of the backing plate, if nothing else to make it easier, but mostly to try to preserve the threads in the backing plate.

 

What I cannot figure out is what the thread size on the brake adjuster is...

 

None of the bolt sizer boards at my local hardware stores go up to the diameter that will accept the piece to screw it in...

 

So I think it may be a M16x1, but I don't want to start guessing and buying a bunch of different dies off of ebay, especially for this one time use.

 

 

Does anyone know the thread size of the Rear Brake Adjuster Screw?

 

 

And does anyone have a good trick for preserving these threads long term?  (I was thinking of sliding a grease filled rubber tube over the new screws once installed and adjusted...)

 

1. Year of your vehicle (1990/91)
2. Model of your vehicle (Carb'd Mainstream Mini Cooper)

3. A detailed description of the problem and anything you have tried to fix the problem.(see above)
4. Pictures can sometimes help in diagnosing a problem, if you think they could, why not include some?  see the part I am describing here: https://www.minispar...ic/17H7619.aspx

 

[nicklouse]

http://www.theminifo...djuster-too-big

 

5/8" UNEF

[GraemeC]

If you can get a die onto them, then I'd presume your backplate is already missing bits as there should be a strap that just the square of the adjuster head pokes through.

And, if you can get to the threads easily then there is no reason they shouldn't screw from the inside to the outside and which should be reasonably clean threads?

[nicklouse]

? the die would just go in from the out side through the hole.

[Retroman]

The best cure is Ti adjusters, zero rust

 

http://www.retromini...ion=new_product

[GraemeC]

? the die would just go in from the out side through the hole.

 

Through which hole?

[GraemeC]

The best cure is Ti adjusters, zero rust

 

http://www.retromini...ion=new_product

 

Link doesn't work (well, without admin rights)

[[email protected]]

Thanks for the thread link nicklouse - I actually did a forum search myself before posting, but I simply didn't turn that one up! Thx!

 

GraemeC - My plates still have the strap, but what I had planned to do was thread the adjusters as far away from the tappets (maximum "no contact with tappets" distance), exposing as much of the thread underneath the car, and then clean/clear them before threading them "forward-ward" back through the plates to remove them.  (I'm not sure if I'm making sense in how I'm writing this, but I hope so!)  I was hopeful that would expose all the thread that was not in the enclosed chamber made up from the drum and backing plate together and get all the rusted bits off.

 

nicklouse - I think you are thinking about a "tap" for a hole, but I'm talking about a "die" like this, to clear a bolt's threads (or create threads on a an un-threaded shaft).  

 

 

 

Retroman - Wow! Titanium!  I did not know there was this option!  I will look into these!

 

The link posted brought me to a login screen, but I sussed it out as http://www.retromini...products_id=753

 

 

[GraemeC]

I can't see how you're going to get a die onto the threads, or at least not in such a way as to get any purchase to be able to turn it.

If you back the adjuster as far 'out' as you can, how are you going to get the die on the thread a the very thing you want to screw it onto will be blocking any chance you have of slotting it behind the strap?

 

Personally, if determined to go this route, I would just cut the strap off as it does very little anyway. If you were in anyway bothered about it not being there you could tack weld it back on.

[DeadSquare]

Get some course  sisal string, poke it around the adjuster behind the strap for 360°, oil it, and pull it backwards and forwards in the threads. This will remove most of the mud and dust, you may have two repeat the process if the string wears out.

 

In really bad cases I have added grinding paste to get into the bottom of the threads.

 

You have got the right idea about screwing them back in through a piece of grease filled tube, but use plastic or polythene, not rubber, which will very quickly be rotted by the grease.

[[email protected]]

GraemeC - I now get your point - so there are threads BEHIND the strap, between it and the backing plate that a die just couldn't possibly screw on to get to.  I hadn't thought of that.  I just saw a lot of threads exposed the last time I adjusted my brakes so I thought that by backing the adjustment out it would expose the lot.

 

DeadSquare - I love your idea of using a home-made "more delicate" wire saw (not as aggressive as this) to clear the threads.  And thanks for the material-type tip for the sleeve.

 

And between all the suggestions, now I know the tube must be a two part affair - one piece between the backing plate and the strap and one piece just stuck on the exposed "nub" of the square end.

 

Much appreciated everyone!   Your good suggestions help me keep this old classic zipping around the streets of NYC!

[GraemeC]

I don't think there is any need to protect the square end - it is just there for the spanner.  Protect the threads, although I just give them a liberal coating of Copperslip and then maybe a squirt of clear Dynax wax (or similar)

 

As you back the adjuster out, all the exposed thread will be between the backplate and the strap.  The strap is the reason you have to screw the adjuster all the way in to remove it.

[[email protected]]

Ah, yes! Anti-seize is a good choice for a protective coating!

Again, can't thank everyone enough for the helpful input.

Cheers!

[DeadSquare]

The Key to 'Oxy-acetelene' cylinders is made of excellent steel and as a square socket, fits nicely on the brake adjuster.

[Retroman]

 

The best cure is Ti adjusters, zero rust

 

http://www.retromini...ion=new_product

 

Link doesn't work (well, without admin rights)

 

 

  Soz must have gone in from admin side

 

http://www.retromini...products_id=753