1970 Austin 1300Gt Remote Gear Problem
#16
Posted 15 August 2018 - 03:41 PM
#17
Posted 15 August 2018 - 07:07 PM
If the remote bolts through the sandwich plate into the remote then you have the correct remote for that diff casing. The one your mechanic mentioned is the Cooper(s)/Mk3 type which uses a different diff casing.hello everyone! i purchase a engine from an Swedish inport 1970 austin 1300gt to install on my 1980 998 Austin mini. so the remote gear case was missing from the engine. i bought one with sandwich plate but when i shift to first gear the gear is wobbly but only on first gear. my mechanic told me that i have the wrong remote gear on it. so he said that 22a250 remote gear is the right one, but I've been looking online and the screw holes are from the bottom into the case, while the other one is bolted through the sandwich plate. does anyone come across with this problem? also when i release the clutch slowly i feel a small vibration. i don't know if is anything to do with it. many thanks
Have a look at the knuckles on the external part of the gear linkage (on top of the diff case)for misadjustement or excessive wear.
I've been looking around and all linkage is fine. i shift into first and move the gear knob around and the linkage moves as well. so im suspecting the problem is from inside. there is a little play were the linkage enters the gearbox but i don't see any bushes to replace. many thanks
numbers 7 in the image http://www.minispare...|Back to search
#18
Posted 15 August 2018 - 08:24 PM
This issue is one big thing I don't like about remote type shifters. There are lots and lots of individual parts between the gear knob and the selector fork inside the gearbox, many held in place with pinch bolts on splines and other's located by bolts with lock nuts and only about 50% are externally accessible. Give the end action that's needed, it's extraordinary that there's any feel to them at all. There's also quite a few parts for the system that are NLA.
OK, rant over.
I suspect here the shifter housing that you have is worn out, with the main shift rod floating all over the place. Depending on what type you have and how bad it is, it maybe possible to re-bush it, but really, as above, there is just so many parts in the entire shift mechanism that they all should be looked at and overhauled.
#19
Posted 15 August 2018 - 09:06 PM
numbers 7 in the image http://www.minispare...|Back to search
I've been looking around and all linkage is fine. i shift into first and move the gear knob around and the linkage moves as well. so im suspecting the problem is from inside. there is a little play were the linkage enters the gearbox but i don't see any bushes to replace. many thanks
If the remote bolts through the sandwich plate into the remote then you have the correct remote for that diff casing. The one your mechanic mentioned is the Cooper(s)/Mk3 type which uses a different diff casing.hello everyone! i purchase a engine from an Swedish inport 1970 austin 1300gt to install on my 1980 998 Austin mini. so the remote gear case was missing from the engine. i bought one with sandwich plate but when i shift to first gear the gear is wobbly but only on first gear. my mechanic told me that i have the wrong remote gear on it. so he said that 22a250 remote gear is the right one, but I've been looking online and the screw holes are from the bottom into the case, while the other one is bolted through the sandwich plate. does anyone come across with this problem? also when i release the clutch slowly i feel a small vibration. i don't know if is anything to do with it. many thanks
Have a look at the knuckles on the external part of the gear linkage (on top of the diff case)for misadjustement or excessive wear.
thanks
#20
Posted 15 August 2018 - 09:21 PM
my first Mini brake down on a Motorway was one of the pinch nuts on the top of the diff housing coming lose.This issue is one big thing I don't like about remote type shifters. There are lots and lots of individual parts between the gear knob and the selector fork inside the gearbox, many held in place with pinch bolts on splines and other's located by bolts with lock nuts and only about 50% are externally accessible. Give the end action that's needed, it's extraordinary that there's any feel to them at all. There's also quite a few parts for the system that are NLA.
OK, rant over.
I suspect here the shifter housing that you have is worn out, with the main shift rod floating all over the place. Depending on what type you have and how bad it is, it maybe possible to re-bush it, but really, as above, there is just so many parts in the entire shift mechanism that they all should be looked at and overhauled.
#21
Posted 18 August 2018 - 08:50 AM
I had a 1300 GT engine and box in a Clubman in the 80s and I had a few problems with the gear shift.
First make sure you use the correct shouldered bolts to attach the sandwich plate to the gearbox and remote housing. If you use ordinary bolts you can end up with a lot of movement regardless of how tight you do them up.
https://www.minispar...px|Back to shop
Also check knuckle joint which is on the back of the gearbox above the diff housing, if these are worn or the pinch bolts are loose you can have problems selecting gears.
https://www.minispar...px|Back to shop
#22
Posted 19 August 2018 - 09:01 AM
I had a 1300 GT engine and box in a Clubman in the 80s and I had a few problems with the gear shift.
First make sure you use the correct shouldered bolts to attach the sandwich plate to the gearbox and remote housing. If you use ordinary bolts you can end up with a lot of movement regardless of how tight you do them up.
https://www.minispar...px|Back to shop
Also check knuckle joint which is on the back of the gearbox above the diff housing, if these are worn or the pinch bolts are loose you can have problems selecting gears.
https://www.minispar...px|Back to shop
hi mate. thanks for the comment. I did try all that. thanks for the advice. i will keep looking for the problem. many thanks
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