29 replies to this topic

[Vites]

hello there. i took my classic mini to janspeed technology in Salisbury to get the best performance ou of my engine, but after paying 300£ plus the vat to get the appropriate carburettor needle i wasn't very happy with the results! any way wile i was driving home i realized that the engine was very slow at low rpm, so i took to my mechanic and after a inspection he told me that the problem is from the camshaft. had anyone come across with this problem? if so what camshaft i should use? i bought this engine fully rebuilt, and was rebore 20+. many thanks

[WillCarter]

Do you know what camshaft the engine has?

[Vites]

hi. some one told me that the original cam is 510. i don't know much about camshafts. thanks

[WillCarter]

Neither do I to be honest, still learning about them. Do you mean that when you press the accelerator it's slow to pick up at low revs? I think that you need to have the right combination of rockers and cam. I think from what I've read a good combo is the Minispares evolution001 and 1.3:1 rockers for a N/A engine. Did they say anything about the rockers or just the cam itself? 

[Vites]

the only thing mentioned was the camshaft. the seller didn't give me much information as the engine was rebuilt by he's best friend who died a few months before the purchase. im stuck on this one. ?
yes, only stats picking up after 2500rpm.

Edited by Vites, 14 August 2018 - 06:42 PM.

[WillCarter]

http://www.theminifo...ion-at-low-rpm/

 

http://www.theminifo...n-accelerating/

 

Have a read of these, they might help 

[Vites]

Hi mate thanks for that. The mini was in the rolling road 2 months ago but that's how it came. Im thinking could be the fuel pump but if so should be the other way around on high rpm. I will check tomorrow and I will check for manifold gasket leaks. Thanks

[Spider]

It could be that it has a 'wild' camshaft fitted and it dosen't come on to the power-band until you get over a certain RPM (is that 2500 RPM from your post?).

 

With 'wilder' camshafts, the engines are fairly lifeless at lower RPMs, depending in the cam, this could be 1200 or higher, some not coming on the power band until 4000 RPM.

 

It might be worth having someone check the cam profile, which can be done 'in-car' but will take a few hours.

 

By the sounds of it, it's not what you are wanting, but it will give you a starting point and understanding of what's in there now.

[Vites]

hi mate. Around 2500 and 3000 rpm. it does make sense! is it possible to remove the camshaft with out having to remove the engine? that means i will have to take it again to the rolling road to get the right carburettor needle!? i will have to get some classic car specialist to get the job properly done. thank you all for the help. i will keep updated thanks

Edited by Vites, 14 August 2018 - 08:15 PM.

[WillCarter]

Because the camshaft is right at the top of the engine there will be no need to remove the engine. It should be a relatively easy fix or swap if that's what you decide to do. Best of luck and keep us updated. 

[Vites]

thanks. will do.?

[Spider]

hi mate. Around 2500 and 3000 rpm. it does make sense! is it possible to remove the camshaft with out having to remove the engine? that means i will have to take it again to the rolling road to get the right carburettor needle! i will have to get some classic car specialist to get the job properly done. thank you all for the help. i will keep updated thanks

 

Ah, OK.

Being the type of engine block you have, there's no tappet covers, and with a camshaft change, the tappets will also have to be changed, so, regrettably, the engine will have to come out and split off the gearbox to change the cam.

 

If you went for one of the factory cams, you can then just look up in the workshop manual all the tuning details, including the Carb Needle and Ignition timing, so with that set up, no need for another rolling road session. While not being the most powerful type of set up, they are very easy to live with and extremely 'drivable'.

[WillCarter]

That's a pain, sorry Vites. At least once it's done that should hopefully be it for as long as you keep it 

[Vites]

hi mate. Around 2500 and 3000 rpm. it does make sense! is it possible to remove the camshaft with out having to remove the engine? that means i will have to take it again to the rolling road to get the right carburettor needle! i will have to get some classic car specialist to get the job properly done. thank you all for the help. i will keep updated thanks

Ah, OK.

Being the type of engine block you have, there's no tappet covers, and with a camshaft change, the tappets will also have to be changed, so, regrettably, the engine will have to come out and split off the gearbox to change the cam.

If you went for one of the factory cams, you can then just look up in the workshop manual all the tuning details, including the Carb Needle and Ignition timing, so with that set up, no need for another rolling road session. While not being the most powerful type of set up, they are very easy to live with and extremely 'drivable'.

[Vites]

thanks. i will think about it and have a chat with the mechanic and get a quote. Do i need to change the tappets even if it was charged when the engine was rebuilt? i only have driven a few miles after the engine was fitted. finally i have somewhere to start. thanks both of you