Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Special Tools


  • Please log in to reply
62 replies to this topic

#46 nicklouse

nicklouse

    Moved Into The Garage

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 17,899 posts
  • Location: Not Yorkshire
  • Local Club: Anonyme Miniholiker

Posted 19 September 2018 - 09:57 PM

not even with a rattle gun. and people wonder why i have the locking tool.



#47 DeadSquare

DeadSquare

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,733 posts
  • Location: Herefordshire
  • Local Club: Unipower GT Owners Club

Posted 19 September 2018 - 10:30 PM

Well, well, well !. 

 

The instructions inside the lid of the box of our, probably 70 year old Ex W.D war surplus KingDick, 3' long Torque Wrench,  (which is built like tank)  used to warn that care should be taken not to snap off tight studs when using its impact ability to loosen them.

 

I have used it in that way many times in the last 50 years with out much ill effect.

 

The instructions also explained checking and calibration, which I have done on occasions when someone has not relaxed the spring after using it, and it has only ever needed a couple of lbs correction.



#48 Wiggy

Wiggy

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,036 posts
  • Location: Hampshire

Posted 20 September 2018 - 01:30 AM

If using a screwdriver or pry bar (as I do), get someone to hold it whilst you do up, or undo the bolt. You can go flying if it pops out whilst exerting maximum force.

I know this from experience......


Does that sound like

*Rattle of gun*
Slipped screwdriver followed by four letter tirades?

I feel your pain lol
With a breaker bar, it's more - harder, harder, ha.........thwack!!

SON OF A female dog!!

Wife - Everything OK down there?

Me - Yes honey, everything is fine.

*grumble, grumble, mother copulating *

Edited by yeti21586, 24 September 2018 - 06:59 AM.
Please do not try and avoid the swear filter


#49 timmy850

timmy850

    Up Into Fourth

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,976 posts
  • Location: NSW, Australia
  • Local Club: MITG

Posted 20 September 2018 - 04:13 AM

Well, well, well !. 

 

The instructions inside the lid of the box of our, probably 70 year old Ex W.D war surplus KingDick, 3' long Torque Wrench,  (which is built like tank)  used to warn that care should be taken not to snap off tight studs when using its impact ability to loosen them.

 

I have used it in that way many times in the last 50 years with out much ill effect.

 

The instructions also explained checking and calibration, which I have done on occasions when someone has not relaxed the spring after using it, and it has only ever needed a couple of lbs correction.

So all you have to do is heave on your KingDick till your nuts get loose  :D



#50 DeadSquare

DeadSquare

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,733 posts
  • Location: Herefordshire
  • Local Club: Unipower GT Owners Club

Posted 20 September 2018 - 07:40 AM

 

Well, well, well !. 

 

The instructions inside the lid of the box of our, probably 70 year old Ex W.D war surplus KingDick, 3' long Torque Wrench,  (which is built like tank)  used to warn that care should be taken not to snap off tight studs when using its impact ability to loosen them.

 

I have used it in that way many times in the last 50 years with out much ill effect.

 

The instructions also explained checking and calibration, which I have done on occasions when someone has not relaxed the spring after using it, and it has only ever needed a couple of lbs correction.

So all you have to do is heave on your KingDick till your nuts get loose  :D

 

 

Oh brilliant, that really made me chuckle.



#51 DeadSquare

DeadSquare

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,733 posts
  • Location: Herefordshire
  • Local Club: Unipower GT Owners Club

Posted 20 September 2018 - 08:20 AM

That would probably work OK - anything that can sit in between two teeth and then jamb against the housing.
An old, decent sized screwdriver or pry bar works.

Yes - it is much easier to remove the bottom pulley and slacken the camshaft nut whilst you have the flywheel on to lock the engine up.
If you don’t then you’d need to stop the crank turning once the gearbox was off (a bit of 3x2 between crank and block wall).

 

 

A jolly useful "tool" is my 30" off-cut from an oak railway sleeper, across the middle of which I placed a head gasket and drilled through to stud holes.

 

When working on the 'bottom end', with the head studs in, I invert the block and insert the studs in the sleeper.

 

This makes it very stable when using the bit of above mentioned 3X2, and for attaching the gear box.



#52 Boycie

Boycie

    Camshaft & Stage Two Head

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,978 posts
  • Location: Kent/ East Sussex border

Posted 20 September 2018 - 09:02 AM

The instructions inside the lid of the box of our, probably 70 year old Ex W.D war surplus KingDick, 3' long Torque Wrench,  (which is built like tank)  used to warn that care should be taken not to snap off tight studs when using its impact ability to loosen them.

 

I'd say the King Dick wrench is probably constructed very differently to modern tat.  I always buy old tools when I see them.  They were built to last and you know anything with the W.D crowsfoot will be absolute top quality.  I have collected quite a few bars, levers, hand tools etc that are dated from the WW2 era.  Sadly a lot of tools from then are unsuitable for use on modern cars from the 60s (!) onwards but I make use of what I can :)

 

My torque wrench is a modern Norbar one; it's ok but won't last forever.  Also, it's clearly stated there's no need to remove any tension from it when not in use, so they must be made differently nowadays.



#53 JonnyAlpha

JonnyAlpha

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,744 posts
  • Location: North Devon
  • Local Club: Exmoor Minis

Posted 21 September 2018 - 08:29 PM

So my heavy duty Flywheel Puller arrived today.

Packed in bubble wrap to prevent it damaging anything :-)

 

MMHrqZO.jpg

 

1gz4Ji2.jpg

 

Bolt grades?

 

2uvrtmn.jpg

 

rpgiAK1.jpg

 

Postage was a little steep. Maybe because it was charged at 10kg, odd really considering the package only weighed just over 2kg.

 

AlhPZg1.jpg

 

1mtZK0K.jpg

 

Any idea which way around this bit goes on.

 

T8Btpyr.jpg


Edited by JonnyAlpha, 21 September 2018 - 08:33 PM.


#54 alex-95

alex-95

    I am THE CLAMP MAKER

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,017 posts
  • Location: l

Posted 21 September 2018 - 08:41 PM

That doesn't look bad.

The small diameter goes into the crank to keep it located. 



#55 JonnyAlpha

JonnyAlpha

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,744 posts
  • Location: North Devon
  • Local Club: Exmoor Minis

Posted 23 September 2018 - 06:51 PM

That doesn't look bad.

The small diameter goes into the crank to keep it located. 

 

Yeh the main circular part of the tool looks like it's made to last and the bolts are a pretty good grade.



#56 nicklouse

nicklouse

    Moved Into The Garage

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 17,899 posts
  • Location: Not Yorkshire
  • Local Club: Anonyme Miniholiker

Posted 23 September 2018 - 08:40 PM

dont forget to lube the main bolt before use.



#57 Wiggy

Wiggy

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,036 posts
  • Location: Hampshire

Posted 23 September 2018 - 09:00 PM

When I've used pullers, albeit only a handful of times; I've never found it necessary to tighten them to monstrous levels. I've done them up moderately tight, then gone to make a cuppa. Most of the time the flywheel has popped off by the time I've returned. If not, a few taps with a hammer has done the trick.

Mind your toes though!

#58 JonnyAlpha

JonnyAlpha

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,744 posts
  • Location: North Devon
  • Local Club: Exmoor Minis

Posted 23 September 2018 - 09:30 PM

Did I read somewhere that you should mark the position of the flywheel before removing it?

#59 nicklouse

nicklouse

    Moved Into The Garage

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 17,899 posts
  • Location: Not Yorkshire
  • Local Club: Anonyme Miniholiker

Posted 23 September 2018 - 09:37 PM

Did I read somewhere that you should mark the position of the flywheel before removing it?

the slot in the crank should be Horizontal.

 

and the parts of the flywheel assy has to be reassembled in the same positions if disassembled.



#60 Magneto

Magneto

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 889 posts
  • Location: Kansas City, USA
  • Local Club: KC MINI Club

Posted 23 September 2018 - 11:21 PM

It's best to have it at TDC #1 so the "C" shaped washer doesn't drop out and jam things up.

 

I always use my impact wrench to remove the flywheel nut, cam nut and front crank nut, spins em right off. It also does the trick to remove the flywheel, and I don't have to worry about knocking the block over onto my foot!

 

I also use a main bearing shell to lock the flywheel, works a treat.

 

I like this tool for both tie rod ends and for ball joints - works really well and doesn't damage anything.


Edited by Magneto, 23 September 2018 - 11:21 PM.





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users