not even with a rattle gun. and people wonder why i have the locking tool.
Special Tools
#46
Posted 19 September 2018 - 09:57 PM
#47
Posted 19 September 2018 - 10:30 PM
Well, well, well !.
The instructions inside the lid of the box of our, probably 70 year old Ex W.D war surplus KingDick, 3' long Torque Wrench, (which is built like tank) used to warn that care should be taken not to snap off tight studs when using its impact ability to loosen them.
I have used it in that way many times in the last 50 years with out much ill effect.
The instructions also explained checking and calibration, which I have done on occasions when someone has not relaxed the spring after using it, and it has only ever needed a couple of lbs correction.
#48
Posted 20 September 2018 - 01:30 AM
With a breaker bar, it's more - harder, harder, ha.........thwack!!If using a screwdriver or pry bar (as I do), get someone to hold it whilst you do up, or undo the bolt. You can go flying if it pops out whilst exerting maximum force.
I know this from experience......
Does that sound like
*Rattle of gun*
Slipped screwdriver followed by four letter tirades?
I feel your pain lol
SON OF A female dog!!
Wife - Everything OK down there?
Me - Yes honey, everything is fine.
*grumble, grumble, mother copulating *
Edited by yeti21586, 24 September 2018 - 06:59 AM.
Please do not try and avoid the swear filter
#49
Posted 20 September 2018 - 04:13 AM
Well, well, well !.
The instructions inside the lid of the box of our, probably 70 year old Ex W.D war surplus KingDick, 3' long Torque Wrench, (which is built like tank) used to warn that care should be taken not to snap off tight studs when using its impact ability to loosen them.
I have used it in that way many times in the last 50 years with out much ill effect.
The instructions also explained checking and calibration, which I have done on occasions when someone has not relaxed the spring after using it, and it has only ever needed a couple of lbs correction.
So all you have to do is heave on your KingDick till your nuts get loose
#50
Posted 20 September 2018 - 07:40 AM
Well, well, well !.
The instructions inside the lid of the box of our, probably 70 year old Ex W.D war surplus KingDick, 3' long Torque Wrench, (which is built like tank) used to warn that care should be taken not to snap off tight studs when using its impact ability to loosen them.
I have used it in that way many times in the last 50 years with out much ill effect.
The instructions also explained checking and calibration, which I have done on occasions when someone has not relaxed the spring after using it, and it has only ever needed a couple of lbs correction.
So all you have to do is heave on your KingDick till your nuts get loose
Oh brilliant, that really made me chuckle.
#51
Posted 20 September 2018 - 08:20 AM
That would probably work OK - anything that can sit in between two teeth and then jamb against the housing.
An old, decent sized screwdriver or pry bar works.
Yes - it is much easier to remove the bottom pulley and slacken the camshaft nut whilst you have the flywheel on to lock the engine up.
If you don’t then you’d need to stop the crank turning once the gearbox was off (a bit of 3x2 between crank and block wall).
A jolly useful "tool" is my 30" off-cut from an oak railway sleeper, across the middle of which I placed a head gasket and drilled through to stud holes.
When working on the 'bottom end', with the head studs in, I invert the block and insert the studs in the sleeper.
This makes it very stable when using the bit of above mentioned 3X2, and for attaching the gear box.
#52
Posted 20 September 2018 - 09:02 AM
The instructions inside the lid of the box of our, probably 70 year old Ex W.D war surplus KingDick, 3' long Torque Wrench, (which is built like tank) used to warn that care should be taken not to snap off tight studs when using its impact ability to loosen them.
I'd say the King Dick wrench is probably constructed very differently to modern tat. I always buy old tools when I see them. They were built to last and you know anything with the W.D crowsfoot will be absolute top quality. I have collected quite a few bars, levers, hand tools etc that are dated from the WW2 era. Sadly a lot of tools from then are unsuitable for use on modern cars from the 60s (!) onwards but I make use of what I can :)
My torque wrench is a modern Norbar one; it's ok but won't last forever. Also, it's clearly stated there's no need to remove any tension from it when not in use, so they must be made differently nowadays.
#53
Posted 21 September 2018 - 08:29 PM
So my heavy duty Flywheel Puller arrived today.
Packed in bubble wrap to prevent it damaging anything
Bolt grades?
Postage was a little steep. Maybe because it was charged at 10kg, odd really considering the package only weighed just over 2kg.
Any idea which way around this bit goes on.
Edited by JonnyAlpha, 21 September 2018 - 08:33 PM.
#54
Posted 21 September 2018 - 08:41 PM
That doesn't look bad.
The small diameter goes into the crank to keep it located.
#55
Posted 23 September 2018 - 06:51 PM
That doesn't look bad.
The small diameter goes into the crank to keep it located.
Yeh the main circular part of the tool looks like it's made to last and the bolts are a pretty good grade.
#56
Posted 23 September 2018 - 08:40 PM
dont forget to lube the main bolt before use.
#57
Posted 23 September 2018 - 09:00 PM
Mind your toes though!
#58
Posted 23 September 2018 - 09:30 PM
#59
Posted 23 September 2018 - 09:37 PM
Did I read somewhere that you should mark the position of the flywheel before removing it?
the slot in the crank should be Horizontal.
and the parts of the flywheel assy has to be reassembled in the same positions if disassembled.
#60
Posted 23 September 2018 - 11:21 PM
It's best to have it at TDC #1 so the "C" shaped washer doesn't drop out and jam things up.
I always use my impact wrench to remove the flywheel nut, cam nut and front crank nut, spins em right off. It also does the trick to remove the flywheel, and I don't have to worry about knocking the block over onto my foot!
I also use a main bearing shell to lock the flywheel, works a treat.
I like this tool for both tie rod ends and for ball joints - works really well and doesn't damage anything.
Edited by Magneto, 23 September 2018 - 11:21 PM.
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