Buying A Mini Advice And Help Pls
#1
Posted 17 September 2018 - 10:27 PM
After my dad stopped me buying a 1980 mini when I was 17 I’ve wanted one ever since. Now 37 I’ve found a car just like the one I wanted and am looking to buy it but could do with some help. My knowledge of minis is very very limited and I haven’t driven one for 15 years but loved it.
I’ve found a 1979 mini 1000, beige and looks in great condition. Has 25,000 miles and being sold by a lady seller how doesn’t use it now, mot and service history.
It looks great on pictures and I’m going to look on Wednesday.
Some help on what I need to look for would be greatly appreciated please. Also does anyone know if you can pay for someone to look with you who can do more than kick the tires ... it’s in West manchester ??
Also if I buy it I need to do a 180 trip back to London , if I’m good condition will it make it .. ? I plan to use it for short trips when down here and it will be garages.
This is a dream of getting a mini so any help is really appreciated
Cheers all
#2
Posted 18 September 2018 - 06:14 AM
Lots of guides on the internet, like this:
http://www.itsamini....a-classic-mini/
But best option would be to get someone who knows Minis to look at it for you.
Also the mot history website is very useful to see what it has failed MOTs for or had advisories for in the past. All you need is the number plate:
https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history
180 miles is nothing for a Mini in good condition. I once drive mine from the south coast of England up to Scotland - 450 miles in a day!
#3
Posted 18 September 2018 - 06:19 AM
There's a helpful guide at https://www.northame...NLwc6NUANGSsMOT
Also this thread is worth reading to avoid the common problem of oversills: http://www.theminifo...-to-avoid-them/
Basically, Minis rust from the inside out so if you see something which you're told is 'surface rust' be cautious, especially if it is around/below the headlamp seams, on the A panel, scuttle, or sills, as rust here is likely to be hiding something nasty. The panels are all available but it will depend if you want a project or to pay someone to do the work!
Mechanically any Mini should manage a 180-mile trip just fine. Motorways are perhaps not their ideal habitat (there weren't any in Britain when the car was being designed...) but they should cope - maybe plan a break somewhere half-way to give yourself and the Mini a rest! Given that this car has only done 25k it may not been driven much for a while, so you might want to take a few consumables, water, etc, in case of any problems. Also see if the classic insurance you arrange includes breakdown cover, many policies do.
Good luck with it!
#4
Posted 18 September 2018 - 07:06 AM
If this low mileage Mini has only ever done short local trips for most of its life, then despite having an MOT things like tyres and rubber hoses may not be in the best condition for a long motorway journey at constant higher speeds. You could get a quote and recommendations for transport costs below to deliver it safely to your garage without it turning a wheel.
Getting Classic Car Transport Quotes on Shiply:-
https://www.shiply.c...c-car-transport
Edited by mab01uk, 18 September 2018 - 07:09 AM.
#5
Posted 18 September 2018 - 07:23 AM
you can get AA or RAC to inspect the car
if its ok
drive it 180 miles will do it the world of good
have aa or rac cover in case
u can get daily insurance if needed £20 or so for a day
#6
Posted 18 September 2018 - 08:12 AM
Also if I buy it I need to do a 180 trip back to London , if I’m good condition will it make it .. ?
Hi,
If you're in good condition there's no harm in pushing it when it breaks down!
Seriously though ask the Manchester mini club if someone could go with you.
They seem a really helpful bunch.
Cheers
#7
Posted 18 September 2018 - 08:17 AM
Check check and check, no fun getting it home and realising you've missed something from when you first checked it.
Engine issues aren't the major worry when buying a Mini, they're cheaper to replace/upgrade than body work so ensure the body work has been looked after and not bodged. Check for filler and make sure you lift the carpets.
Take a torch and check the inside boot floor where the subframe mounts.
Anything is replaceable and doable if you have the knowledge/attitude, failing that if you have money in the bank you can either get a course or practise til you find yourself able to. Finally there is always the option or finding always repairer/restorer.
Don't be scared. Minis will not only give you small headaches, they'll give you huge sense of satisfaction and bags of smiles on your face.
#8
Posted 18 September 2018 - 08:19 AM
#9
Posted 18 September 2018 - 10:03 AM
As has already been said check EVERYWHERE for rust and corrosion.
Id advise that you check the condition of the coolant in the radiator, and also the oil for milky oil before you drive, also feel the engine block which will let you know if it's been started before you turn up.
If possible a short road test listening to the engine under load, also do a few emergency stops to check the brakes work.
Oh and while on the road test put the car into second gear, then boot it to see if it pops out of gear, if it does it might be internal gearbox issues
Edited by cal844, 18 September 2018 - 10:04 AM.
#10
Posted 18 September 2018 - 05:43 PM
Just trying to find someone local who can check the car out for a fee but hopefully all will be ok and I’ll have a mini at last
Thanks again for your help
#11
Posted 18 September 2018 - 05:43 PM
Just trying to find someone local who can check the car out for a fee but hopefully all will be ok and I’ll have a mini at last
Thanks again for your help
#12
Posted 18 September 2018 - 10:02 PM
Don't be afraid to walk away, there will always be other Minis if it's not the one for you.
This is a major point to take on board. It may take a while but another will come along, don't just buy it because it looks pretty and you don't want to feel awkward with the seller.
In terms of what to look out for, rust is number 1. The greasy bits can be changed easily but metal and paint work, for most hobbiests, are the biggest challenge.
A good way to spot potential problems is to look at the MOT history (free to do online). Look for failures because of rust, more importantly look at how long it took to repair (i.e. the gap between the MOT fail and subsequent pass). For example, if you see a failure due to excessive corrosion around a suspension mounting point and then a day or two later it's magically passed - that's a good indicator the rust has been patched over rather than repaired. Unless the MOT station is working 24hr shifts, they will not have a proper repair done in such a short time.
Edited by Icey, 18 September 2018 - 10:03 PM.
#13
Posted 19 September 2018 - 11:47 AM
The car looked great and drove well. It has been garaged for ages and the previous owner had it from 1979 to a few years ago. Then the neighbour bought it and has hardly driven it. It needed jump lead to start but then was fine. It has a small amount of rust around the sills but I lifted the carpets etc and all looked ok.
Should I be worried about the battery and presume this is very simple to fix. On the drive all was great . The brakes in a 1979 mini 1000 are pretty poor to say the least , I’ve read these can be changed for disc brakes , any idea how much and how easy this is?
Thanks again for your help.
I smiled like a kid the whole time driving it !
#14
Posted 19 September 2018 - 11:47 AM
The car looked great and drove well. It has been garaged for ages and the previous owner had it from 1979 to a few years ago. Then the neighbour bought it and has hardly driven it. It needed jump lead to start but then was fine. It has a small amount of rust around the sills but I lifted the carpets etc and all looked ok.
Should I be worried about the battery and presume this is very simple to fix. On the drive all was great . The brakes in a 1979 mini 1000 are pretty poor to say the least , I’ve read these can be changed for disc brakes , any idea how much and how easy this is?
Thanks again for your help.
I smiled like a kid the whole time driving it !
#15
Posted 19 September 2018 - 12:51 PM
Batteries do not last long if they are not used regularly or kept charged up with a suitable battery charger......an easy fix, just replace the old battery with a new one from somewhere like Halfords.
Disc brake kits can be bought from somewhere like Minispares and are an easy swap for a keen DIYer or mechanic, although from what you have asked it sounds like you would need a mechanic to do the swap for you.
To retain 10" wheels you need the 7.5" kit:-
http://www.minispare...-AJJ4028MS.aspx
Edited by mab01uk, 19 September 2018 - 12:52 PM.
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