13 replies to this topic

[need4speed]

Hi guys, I have a a problem with a front cone where the threaded insert that the compresser tool screws into has come away from the cone itself (so the cone compressor can't be used). So having got the shaft nuts removed, the plate bolts removed and the top ball-joint disconnected, has anybody any suggestions as to how to get the top arm out while the cone is still loaded? The subframe is in the car and the so is engine so a big soft-faced hammer can't be used to knock the shaft through.

 

Incidentally the cone is less than a year old and the car has barely left the garage since it was fitted.

[jaysmini1983]

personally i would just cut through the original cone and then fit either a new cone or hi-lo's. 

yes it will be tricky and under tension while cutting, but i cant see many other ways.

[Boycie]

You may be able to get a big bar under the top arm and lever it to the 'sweet spot' so the pin can slide out. It'll be a heck of a job though and keep fingers and toes well clear!
Otherwise, as said above, smash the aluminium cone will be the only sure-fire way.
Incidentally, that is a big advantage of having hi-lo type suspension on the front, it makes working on it so much easier!

[need4speed]

I sorted it by blocking the top arm using a steel sapcer where the rebound bump stop goes, putting a nut with a thick washer, loosely on the front thread of the shaft and easing the shaft out with a big pickle-fork and a tyre lever on the back thread of the shaft. Yes, keep fingers clear!

The thread had sheared out of the back of the (virtually new- genuine part) )rubber cone. Fortunately all the springs cones are new so I'll swap it for a rear one. Now I just need to get a new top arm - hard to believe you can bend one of those!

Edited by need4speed, 18 September 2018 - 07:45 PM.

[Boycie]

Yes, bad luck with the welded in nut, where did you buy the rubber cone from?
You shouldn't need to replace the whole top arm, the pins are available separately if it's too scored up (it wouldn't bother me however if it all bolts back together without major play...)

[Spider]

I've managed to lever the end of the pin from between the body and the subframe on the side facing the back of the car. Once it gets flush, to get that last bit, I continue levering from the front side, which may require radiator removal.

 

Once the back end of the Pin drops out of the Subframe, while there is still some pressure on the Pin, it does become largely unloaded and so you can should be able to just get it out.

 

Ugly job.

[need4speed]

The rubber cone came from Minispares, but I don't hold it against them.

 

The whole problem became a problem after I tried to take out the top arm - which I'd only (re-)put in recently. The new (pattern part) top ball joint proved impossible to get out despite the scariest of ball-joint splitters, big hammers and heat. Eventually I cut the top arm open (I was planning to replace it anyway to solve a ride-height problem). So now a new arm and hi-lo and that will be the end of ride-height issues.

 

I couldn't believe how easily I cut that top arm open... is it cast iron? My disc cutter went trough it in seconds.

[need4speed]

I've managed to lever the end of the pin from between the body and the subframe on the side facing the back of the car. Once it gets flush, to get that last bit, I continue levering from the front side, which may require radiator removal.

 

I'm working on the other side.

[Dusky]

Hmm. My new minispares cone did the same. Wonder if there are bad batches out there.

[DeadSquare]

I sorted it by blocking the top arm using a steel sapcer where the rebound bump stop goes, putting a nut with a thick washer, loosely on the front thread of the shaft and easing the shaft out with a big pickle-fork and a tyre lever on the back thread of the shaft. Yes, keep fingers clear!

The thread had sheared out of the back of the (virtually new- genuine part) )rubber cone. Fortunately all the springs cones are new so I'll swap it for a rear one. Now I just need to get a new top arm - hard to believe you can bend one of those!

 

I can't understand what you did that could bend the top arm.

 

Before you could buy the "workshop compressors" , the accepted "roadside" way of doing it was to remove the little rebound rubber which took off most of the doughnut's pressure.

Almost remove the nut on the rear of the shaft, then remover the 1/4 set screw holding the plate at the front of the shaft.

Tap the shaft through 5/16 till the shaft drops, remove the rear nut and ease the shaft out at the front with increasingly larger screwdrivers.

 

Getting it back together with a new doughnut was a struggle.    (That I'll tell you all about some other time)

[Spider]

I couldn't believe how easily I cut that top arm open... is it cast iron? My disc cutter went trough it in seconds.

 

They are Forged in EN15R. It's a tough material, but not hard, it will cut easy (as you found!), even with a hacksaw.

[need4speed]

Well I imagine if it cuts that easily it can also bend. As to how, I don't know. I took this project on for a friend's son who did admit to hitting a pile of kerb-stones. 

[andyapanel]

I had the same problem with a Minispares Doughnut; thankfully the nut came off as I was inserting it, so it only took a few minutes to re weld it, no disassembly required. It does raise that persistent question of questionable parts quality, though and more than that, the time we waste dealing with the consequences.

Personally, I would be prepared to pay more for a guarantee of parts quality; Minispares and Somerfords are the only suppliers I buy from because they have pretty good quality control.

[need4speed]

There are some marginal parts out there. It doesn't help working on a shell that's been welded a gnats out of alignment. Old cars? What can you do?