19 replies to this topic

[Hugh Jass]

Hi,

I bought my little 1989 Mini City E to renovate.

Any advice on getting a bottom pulley off?

My method of choice will be a socket, with a bar, with a scaffold pole and an 18-stone weight swinging off the end.

Do most people use the gearbox to stop the engine turning?

 

Should I just borrow a compressor and air gun?

Any advice gratefully received.

 

 

 

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[Dusky]

Lock the flywheel ?

[JCmini]

Try just using a socket on it and holding the pulley with the other hand. I don't think there that hard to take off. 

[nicklouse]

some sockets will not fit with the bracket in the way. so you will need a spanner or bracket off.

and lock the flywheel.

[DeadSquare]

You shouldn't need a compressor and an air gun, or a 20' scaffold pole, a bar and 18-st should be ample with something wedged in the starter ring rather than putting the car in gear.

 

I'd remove as much as you can of the mucky dirt first, as you don't want it going into the hole when the pulley comes out.

 

By the way, why are you removing the pulley?

[Hugh Jass]

I want to check the chain and tensioner etc (standby for pictures and questions on here )

 

The car hasn't run since 1995. Somebody else completed all the welding on the car but I am just stripping down to check everything before I try and start it. 

[Hugh Jass]

Thanks for the advice by the way. I''l take the starter off and have a look. 

[nicklouse]

does it sound rattley? if not don't bother looking.

[DeadSquare]

I want to check the chain and tensioner etc (standby for pictures and questions on here )

 

The car hasn't run since 1995. Somebody else completed all the welding on the car but I am just stripping down to check everything before I try and start it. 

 

Hmmm.  I'd be inclined to leave well alone, on the principal that "If it ain't bust, don't fix it"

[Retroman]

If you are going to the hassle of checking it you may as well renew the chain and tensioner.

 

Make sure you use a good quality chain, IWIS.

 

A 1/2 drive rattle gun is the quick way to remove the bolt but difficult in car [ you don't need to lock the flywheel then either ]

 

Don't forget there is a lock tab too

[DeadSquare]

Darn it, the ruddy thing only ran for 6 years.

 

It's hardly run-in.

[Hugh Jass]

If my lady wife keeps messing about in the garage near where I carefully arranged my push rods it might need running in again. 

[DeadSquare]

If my lady wife keeps messing about in the garage near where I carefully arranged my push rods it might need running in again. 

If the push rods are clean and grease free, draw rings up the stem from 1 to 8 with a marker pen, starting at the water pump end.

If they are a bit oily, put a flap of masking or sellotape round them with the number.;  ditto the cam followers.

Number the valves in the same way.

Dot, with a punch the con rods and their caps 1-4 from the water pump end and mark the center main bearing cap and the block beside each other so that goes back on the same way.

 

This all helps someone else rebuild the engine when your wife bans you from the garage.

[mk1leg]

did you unlock the bolt first

[Cooperman]

Lock the crankshaft by removing the starter motor. Lock it at TDC with No.1 cylinder firing as that makes changing the chain easier as the 'dots' on the sprockets will be in line without turning crank or cam further. Don't move the crank or cam when removing or re-fitting the sprockets.